Ive got an aftermarket condenser, good used compressor and new O-rings to hopefully keep the AC running for the next few years. Ive had a look at the access available, and with the radiator top mount removed, it would be tight, but is there *just* enough room perhaps to remove the condenser without removing the radiator? Or does the radiator need to be taken off its lower mount and moved backward, supporting from below, to give enough access? With regards to the compressor, I think the bottom 2 bolts would be a struggle, would it be a case of jacking up that side and possibly removing the wheel to gain better access? Seeing if anyone has experience doing this, as I like to know Il be able to see the job through once I start, as my car is my daily driver.

 

I'm pretty sure you can pull the condenser out by just removing the top plate and undoing the connectors.

 

Be careful of twisting the lines as you uncouple and wrench the lines and some penitrant spray a couple days in advance may help .

The condenser and compressor lift right out , no wheel removal needed .

$ 30 US dryer replacement recommended as well as back flushing the TXV with simple compressed air in both directions .

You can drive the car at any point of the replacement process including the belt .

the belt is the tricky part as the long adjustment bolt can freeze up . Do not strip the 4 sided head on the long adjudting bolt

Good time to replace the idler pulley and a gates # X , $ 18 US is avail at the local uto parts store to order up in advance .

 

Good to know, although I asked about the wheel removal to gain better access to the compressor mounting bolts, although I think Im just gonna get it on a ramp, everything is easier on a ramp .

Got a new drier to put in, and Ive already sorted the idler pulley and AC belt, that gates pulley is far superior. Although I will say I noticed to my surprise that it had worked loose and was ready to fall off! Ive redone it but looks like some threadlock might not be a bad idea.

 

I wonder if making a pipe out of aluminum foil would be a way of getting the TXV to open up in order yo get hot air on the TXV bulb to ensure that it's opened up .

My whole AC system plumbing is removed at this time as the condenser was damaged and leaking and not relapsed after the previous owners wreck

 

Stumbled at the first hurdle when tackling the job. Classic case of everything coming off fairly easily apart from the last bolt. Lines were a doddle, top 2 bolts for the compressor aswell, front-most bottom bolt put up a fight, but came free. Last bolt is tricky to access, anti-rollbar is in the way, and the sub-frame is underneath leaving just enough room for a ratchet and socket. I tackled it with a 12 point socket, forgetting I had a 6 point stored away somewhere. By the time I realised and swapped to the superior socket, it was too late, too rounded to remove, although it may have started more rounded than the other bolts I cant remember. I picked up a set of Irwin bolt extractor sockets after seeing how effective they can be. They bit the bolt well, but proved useless as they need to be hammered on and there is no access to do that. They've chewed the last of the bolt and now im left with a completely rounded 10mm bolt which is tightly in place, with no access to destructively remove it. .

 

I find the best way to deal with these is two weld a larger nut over it, then use a bigger socket, always comes out easily and if you can stick a socket there, then there should be enough space to weld a nut too.

 

Katar83 that might be the method we use, however we will be working in an Audience garage so I don't think they have welding equipment. I realised that if we remove the bolt head, because the bolts only have a lower threaded portion that threads into the mounting bracket only, the compressor should slide forward. Will probably hit the subframe before its free, but at least it will give some access to cut the bolt on the other side.