Hard to follow but looks like those lines join together, run around the back then bent and capped and grounded out above the transmission? Will try and look better and get pics.

also car just stalled but this time from low voltage. And now voltage is low. Lucky i cleaned up my spare alt on the weekend.

 

That's an important clue. Low voltage can cause all sorts of weirdness. Get that fixed and everything else might fix itself.

 

one can only hope……
got alternator ready to go in.
plan to do on sunday.

 

Somewhere along the line below 11.4 volts the ECU loses proper voltage for things like injector regulation , but from seen on mine the engine should start ( ? ) below that point

Low sag voltage sag issue still working on ( posable battery connection from previous owner crash ) but still starting and gone but lost it with battery connection polarity event ( frustration from brother shortfalls dealing with )

 

Why does voltage drop below 12v and cause stalling tho if battery is not dead?
if battery is ok would voltage still be above 12v?
Or does the current draw from systems cause the voltage to drop lower unless alternator is working?

 

Odd thing happening here where sometimes my posts are not showing up until i post again

 

Just another thought..
I swapped the ecu previously.
and i had the tps reset.
Not sure if the o2 orientation was reset.
maybe this needed to be done?

but then again, this would not cause rich running in open loop mode

 

Made a few more videos.
One of which you can see i am giving the car alot. Full WOT.
And whilst accelerating the trims seem ok.
It is mostly as backing off the accelerator the trims go bad.

The other videos are mor normal driving and idling at lights.

Couple things to note is the MAF clearly is reading. And multiply it by 10 and it might be the reading that is expected.
And wrong reading is known issue on these.

What i am thinking after these is

1 - bank 1 o2 sensor is lazy,
I could test this by swapping them into different banks and see if the fault follows the sensor.
Unlikely i think this as the issue is problematic when in open loop. When o2 sensor should not be getting used.

2 - there is potentially leaky injector on bank 1 resulting in excess fuel at idle and low throttle.
However as the throttle gets higher this is less of an issue.

3 - one injector on bank 1 is slow to close resulting in excess fuel after throttle is closing.

3 - something is wrong in one of the cylinders resulting in poor combustion.
Unlikely as car idles well.

 

I like the leaky injector theory. You can send them out for cleaning/testing? Probably due anyways?

I did check my MAF, and like yours, it barely moves if applying gas while parked. Only in drive will I see MAF movement. That MAF is probably good.

 

no idea if the injectors have ever been properly cleaned.
i have spares from my other car so can easy check on sunday.
aslong as i have time after doing my alternator.

and then i can send a set off for refurb somewhere.

the MAF did reach up to like 1.9 when i was really giving it to the car at like 5k rpm and 100% WOT. so yeah pretty sure she is good.

sometimes my over active brain is a curse cus i can't stop thinking about things.
but other times it is great.

 

There are some Youtube videos to cleaning the injectors by running a good pure solvent through them while you power them open

The best I think is MEK as hard to find based on it's cancer causing

Precaution of only short pules as can burn the coil out if too long and is very flammable fluid spraying around battery connections , you can use a trunk dome light connector as the same as a injector , EV - 1 series


But it's cheap for a do it yourselfer and will not return a professional shop flow rate to verify equal injectors

Have you ever done a alternator change on a X300 in the past , some tips as done many times myself

 

This would also verify leaking injectors if so

A dragging injector on the close direction would also over fuel , but if dragging in both travel directions , both directions time to get to open and then close would balance out ( ? )

 

" Why does voltage drop below 12v and cause stalling tho if battery is not dead?
if battery is ok would voltage still be above 12v?
Or does the current draw from systems cause the voltage to drop lower unless alternator is working? "

As the battery starts at 12.75 volts full charge the starter motor cycle will bring it down , in running it will draw it down further , 12.0 volts at the battery is 80 % battery charge

The difference in battery state hand meter readings and instrument cluster is the battery cable resistance at the terminal connections , there are 3 or 4 of them

The battery positive post stretch over years ( battery shims ? ) remember to not over tighten , mega fuse nuts loose right at the battery post turn down , terminal post under the rear seat pan as you remove pan , terminal post on the right front wheel arch inside the engine bay ( loose connection found inside wheel well arch as you wiggle naked ( cables removed ) post , also post plastic insulators in bad shape ) , terminal post on the top post of the starter solenoid , and the B + post on the starter

Someone took an excellent pic on the starter solenoid battery cable connection ( as it is on it's way fwd to the alternator B + post ) as you easily look through the intake pipes









Watto700 mentioned a terminal post down very low crossing from the cabin interior to the right front wheel quarter panel I have not dug into yet , this is not shown in the wiring guide

These resistances become more observable voltage wise under a high current load like starter and cabin blower ( the high current is traded for lower voltages across resistance )

And the condition of the battery under current / load draw even after full charge

You would see a natural voltage sag on starter rotation and this is the limits of the battery ( Crank Amp rating ) , even a super good new battery

 

Will read that last reply later. For some reason the text is black and hard to read on my phone set to dark mode.

question.
does anyone know the injector o ring size?
and are black nitrile o rings ok for fuel?

 

Green and I wouldn't trust a E - bay seller as that important , get from reputable source least engine fire

I've seen them at the local auto parts stores

Don't forget to use fuel seal lube or they can roll but the small size diminishes that , vasoline ?

don't forget to do a leak check by stuffing around the area with paper bags , shows leaking fluid as dark stain , or foot talcum powder

When lifting fuel rail be careful of it not getting away from you as it pops off a stuck injector least bent rail , there is a trick to not leveraging off the brittle magnesium valve cover lip

 

How bout red?

 

Things are color coded for a reason unless.........................

 

ok so i swapped my alternator today.
don't think that will fix anything...

i took my injectors off my parts car,
went in search of new o rings but no luck.
looks like i am going to have to buy them online.
now if i buy them online i may aswell buy a service kit including filters,

but then i was thinking if i was going to do that i may aswell just get mine profesionally cleaned tested and rebuilt.
get them back as good as new with new o rings ready to go in.

got to see who i can find local who does that.

 

doing the best research i can and jag stuff is harder to find here.
it looks as though a service kit for a VT Holden Commodore should be good.
it looks as though the o-rings and filter are the same.

not sure if the injectors would or would not be compatible,
fuel pressure same same
flow rate same (potentially just slightly higher)
not sure of impendence difference.

i know there is atleast one bosch injector which is a direct replacement however can not find what the part number is.
always handy to check for compatible parts

 

For the X300 there are 2 types one being higher flow rate for the supercharged

There are 1 or 2 TSB that may contain the Bosch # but they can also be Denso's

The O - ring size may be the same for both as well as the basket filter that can be soaked and cleaned

The difference for the supercharged is the color code stripe ( red or blue ? )

Can't find TSB