i doubt it also. I only question it cus i know from experience that pneumatic linear actuators can be set to be open or closed when there is no air.

 

to force a small movement of the rear edge of the bonnet would require many turns of the motor through the gear so you have mechanical adantage leverage working for you as it is working in the oposite sence

I thought I would need a seperate latch actuator but thinking it through maybe not and to try without would not be a disaster in driving wind speed not going to pull boonet up

 

Just depends if it holds open or closed.
it is likely the actuators would not hold either way.

 

Open or Closed , yes there will be a constant force down in the open position ( and the bonnet is almost straight up , 45 degrees being worst ) but doesn't matter in the closed

Just a suck up from aerodynamic forces

There is a difference in gas pressure escaping the cylinder but to move an electric it has to spin the gears and motor so there is soooome resistance and maybe enough

 

So finally got around to installing the underbonnet lighting today.
used 2 small COB LED panels.
so wired the positive into fuse #9 slot of of the LH engine bay fuse box.
fed my wire and spade terminal into the factory connector.




connected the negative to a trigger switch mounted on the radiator support (opposite side from the factory bonnet ajar switch)
and ran the wire up the gas strut onto the bonnet.




ran the wire behind the bonnet insulation and passed the lights through.
wanted to mount the LHS one symmetrically opposite where the RHS one is mounted but that would have had it sitting directly above the throttle control and if for some reason the light fell loose that would not be ideal so i mounted it near the top instead.
There really is very little clearance in this engine bay.





the result however is fantastic and i am very happy with the light output from these little panels and very happy I was able to integrate it into the factory fusebox





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