Hey,
I can't open the trunk via Jaguar button anymore, but it still works with the button inside the car. Any ideas?

PS:
In case the button inside the car stops working too, how am I even supposed to open the trunk?

 

Check the wiring, running from the lid down along the hinge into the trunk (boot) space. It's known for wires to fray in that area. Check fuses, too.

Your last resort, other than the electronic buttons, is to use the key in the right side mechanical trunk release.

I have, recently, been unable to open the trunk (boot) either electrically (buttons) or mechanically (via key), but still able to access via stealthy means.

 

As above, you can use the key to open the boot. Once opened, you should investigate the switch/button as they can suffer corrosion due to water getting in past the chrome trim. The "seal" behind the trim is a rather stiff plastic material and doesn't actually seal very well. You will have to remove the trim, which is held on using "star" washers, not all of which are very accessible.
Be gentle as the little plastic lugs that the washers fit onto can easily shear off. The switch itself is mounted inside the chrome trim and you will probably find that the two small fixing screws have corroded somewhat also.


No harm to have some spares on hand.


This was my experience!

 

Butons nor key work to open trunk now. Is there an emergency release?

 

If the electrical side of things are not working then check the fuses. The key in the boot lid is manual ie, mechanical linkage and therefore maybe stuck. Try some penetrant in the key hole and then exercise the lock.
Other than this, search on the forum for boot release, there is a way to get it open from underneath.

 

Good idea to check the fuses...... except the wiring integration engineers at Jaguar thought of it first and put the boot-release fuse in the boot fuse box.
Couple of slots behind the number plate at the bottom of it. Search, there are several posts...a few with pictures. You have to get in there and jog the latch to the right.

 

The only emergency release I know of is the manual hunt-n-peck method. Remove the rear license plate - mine is secured only with the two screws at the top. At the bottom, there are two slotted holes (trunk face, where the bottom of the plate would be secured). I used a heavy gauge rod (with a diameter that just fits in the slot) and with a 90 degree bend at one end, about 3/4 inch long.

Imagine if you will, the release is mounted about 1/4 the way up from the bottom slots (between bottom and top screw slots). Check the photo on post #13 (Linky). This photo shows the trunk closed, and the rear face panel has been literally cut away - so you're sitting on the ground and looking straight at the release mechanism. You can see the lower rod that goes from the lower slot on the machanism to the key release - the upper rod goes to the electric release.

I used the rod to push on the fulcrum (is it a fulcrum?). Many folks go in the lower-right slot with a coat hangar (with a "hook" bent at the end) and pull. I find (along with others) that you end up pulling on wires (you'll see the wiring in the photo), which is not what you want to do.

Anyway, so all I did was slide the rod in from the lower-left slot and and slightly "waved" it fore and aft, while I slowly slid it to the right. The "waving" action is to know when you've reached the fulcrum. Once I found it, I simply wedged the 90 degree bent portion up against the fulcrum and pushed. This process took me all of less than two minutes.