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Hi,
I know this is an old post, but hope this could be useful.
I am replacing my 97 x300 boot/trunk lift support struts and can confirm that this is tricky without a long pry bar to force the left side strut to release or by removing the tank. Particularly for the left side struts inner clip.
The right hand strut can be easily released with a screwdriver, but I could not access the inner clip on the left side strut and was wary about using a pry bar around the fuel pipes with limited access.
Using a wire clothes hanger I made a tool to allow the easy release of the left side inner strut clip. This can be used to pull and lift the clip from behind. Once the clip is lifted the strut can be moved away from the ball connector.
Please see the attached photos. I hope this will help anyone doing the same job in the future with limited access to the strut clips.
The clothes hanger wire stretched out Hook sanded flat (2m job) Clip lifted. Works from the other end with limited access Lifted clip close up
Last edited by Nobeel Masri; Dec 15, 2018 at 02:48 PM.
Reason: Add Photos, was not allowing upload in original posting
Struts on both sides. Pretty easy change if you have the fuel tank out for a pump-renewal. Probably a bit more challenging with it in-place. They attach/detach just like the bonnet struts, but the forward attachment is tucked "back" in the "front" of the boot where the fuel tank blocks easy access. Many have reported successfully renewing them without removing anything more than the boot trim.
I purchased a set for mine years ago, when it went from being a simple finger-wave to lift it to a bit more effort, yet it will even today stay up once fully lifted. By the time I decided I'd better fit them, I couldn't find them, but I "know" they are somewhere in my shop. Bought another set for the lad's 96 after we got it because it was a bit worse than my 95. His fuel pump failed not too long after so I managed to fit those before I lost them!
The easiest way to remove the inner ball/socket connector is with a 2 or 3 foot prybar.
I just place the tip of the prybar as close to the ball/socket as possible and PRY!!!
It will pop off and then you install the new lift support. I smear a little silicon grease in the socket so it will pop into place easily.
Brutal but effective. I just did 3 sedans (one X300 and two X308) in the past few weeks. I guess the temp change is causing the weak one to fail completely.
The easiest way to remove the inner ball/socket connector is with a 2 or 3 foot prybar.
I just place the tip of the prybar as close to the ball/socket as possible and PRY!!!
It will pop off and then you install the new lift support. I smear a little silicon grease in the socket so it will pop into place easily.
Brutal but effective. I just did 3 sedans (one X300 and two X308) in the past few weeks. I guess the temp change is causing the weak one to fail completely.
bob
bob
Thanks Bob for the good info. You're always a big help.
Just did this job this past weekend. No need to remove tank, but it is helpful on the right side to move the wiring loom out of the way so it doesn't interfere with removal, and giving you enough room to get your hand in there to snap the replacement in place.
As motorcarman so wisely stated, a long prybar is your best friend.
The Goats are running low on pasture grazing material. Winter seems to be closing in. We have NOT had a hard freeze YET. (I love global warming or whatever the alarmists are calling it). Hay and feedstore Sheep/Goat nuggets are now on the menu for the foreseeable future.
Jaguars and OLD Bentley/Rolls Royce motorcars are still needing repair........ Life is good.
The Goats are running low on pasture grazing material. Winter seems to be closing in. We have NOT had a hard freeze YET. (I love global warming or whatever the alarmists are calling it). Hay and feedstore Sheep/Goat nuggets are now on the menu for the foreseeable future.
Jaguars and OLD Bentley/Rolls Royce motorcars are still needing repair........ Life is good.
bob
You must have awfully good fencing to keep those critters under control. I know a Mexican family in this area that manage 4000 sheep. The kid tells me he is constantly fixing fence. Even the smallest hole they will find it. I would think goats would be worse.
Hi,
I know this is an old post, but hope this could be useful.
I am replacing my 97 x300 boot/trunk lift support struts and can confirm that this is tricky without a long pry bar to force the left side strut to release or by removing the tank. Particularly for the left side struts inner clip.
The right hand strut can be easily released with a screwdriver, but I could not access the inner clip on the left side strut and was wary about using a pry bar around the fuel pipes with limited access.
Using a wire clothes hanger I made a tool to allow the easy release of the left side inner strut clip. This can be used to pull and lift the clip from behind. Once the clip is lifted the strut can be moved away from the ball connector.
Please see the attached photos. I hope this will help anyone doing the same job in the future with limited access to the strut clips.
The clothes hanger wire stretched out Hook sanded flat (2m job) Clip lifted. Works from the other end with limited access Lifted clip close up
Last edited by Nobeel Masri; Dec 15, 2018 at 02:48 PM.
Reason: Add Photos, was not allowing upload in original posting
THANK YOU, THANK YOU, THANK YOU for replying to this old post !!
I have been putting this off for SO long, I too, forgot where my new boot/trunk lift support struts are !
No matter, if I cant find in a few days , I'll get a new pair, now that I have this info.
It was just too daunting after 1st attempt, so I've procrastinated this whole time
The boot/trunk support struts are very similar to the bonnet/ hood support struts only a bit shorter, have a good look at them and you'll see how they attach. Also the socket end fittings unscrew from the ends of the struts so if you can't pop off the sockets you may be able to unscrew them and just replace the strut without prying the sockets off the ball fittings. Just a thought..
My trunk lid opens fine by hand but slams shut unless I ease it down by hand.
I have a 2000 XJ8L VP and My trunk lid opens fine by hand but slams shut unless I ease it down by hand. Just the weight of the lid makes it slam shut so hard my trunks lights popped out. Do I need to replace the trunk struts?
I have a 2000 XJ8L VP and My trunk lid opens fine by hand but slams shut unless I ease it down by hand. Just the weight of the lid makes it slam shut so hard my trunks lights popped out. Do I need to replace the trunk struts?
YES - if the struts fail when you have your head inside, it's going to hurt.
You could find one has gone completely and the weight is only being supported by the other.
[QUOTE=GGG;2482571]YES - if the struts fail when you have your head inside, it's going to hurt.
I bought the trunk struts but when I checked out the existing ones I couldn't begin to even get my hand in either side. All I can access is a couple inches of the trunk end of the strut. I can't even see the other end of the struts. Much less get to it. Looks like this may be a problem I'll have to live with. I have no intention of paying hundreds and hundreds of dollars to have them changed by a mechanic. Hard to believe that a car that sold for 80K would be having these kinds of problems at 60K miles. I love this car but things like this are disappointing.
Boot/trunk lid heavy
