I need to install new pads on the front & rear.........how hard is it to do? Anyone have pictures of the process

 

Not hard at all; just make sure you have the right allen key (7mm IIRC?) and something suitable for retracting the piston - and be sure that your discs aren't in need of replacement too. Oh, and keep your fingers crossed that the piston does indeed retract nicely - otherwise you'll be rebuilding/replacing the calliper. I don't know how common that is (it did happen to me though!), but it's worth being prepared for...

 

Rear bolts on mine were safety-wired. No big deal, but added $20 or so pair of safety wire pliers and roll of wire from ATS that wasn't previously in my "brake job tools" kit! I do have a nice tool for retracting the pistons....but since handbrake on these is a set of drum brakes, I believe you can use a c-clamp like on the front. I crack the bleed screw open and push the old fluid out as I compress the piston rather than push it back up into the reservoir. Either way works...my way just remember to top-up reservoir between wheels, opposite way, be prepared to deal with the possibility of overflowing it.

I do have some pictures...but you'll have to scroll down past all the a/c condenser shots...the brake pictures are "bracketed" by pics of the Andy-Bracket - when you see it, start looking for brakes..and when you see it again, you've reached the end of the brake pics....


VDP Mechanicals Photos by holbrz1 | Photobucket

 

Ah... not to worry about safety wire pliers. When going to safety wire school they make you do it by hand at first. Pliers are for the advanced course. All you need is a bunch of band aides.

 

LOL, i'd never work again due to carpel-tunnel if I'd had to twist 'em by hand....and all i ever did was the two on the rear of the XJ!

 

You can do it. Just watch those sharp ends and don't bleed on important parts.

 

You can always give the wire ends a couple of strokes with a file or stone at the start of the job and forget the bleeding part.