I stopped at the local pay n spray type car wash as a bird unloaded on my car last night and I didn't want it to hurt my new 3M satin pearl wrap.

While I was at it I thought I'd spray off the motor compartment too as I 've done many times before.

I made a mistake, I left the coil pack cover off as I feel it may trap heat,...and then my car wouldn't start. Finally got it running, then died, running then died. finally home. Water was around the top of one coil pack but that's it.

Just ran Seafoam thru it and going to change plugs now and disconnect the battery. Has anyone had issues like this.

ON A SIDE NOTE:
Whilst running the Seafoam thru the intake, I noticed smoke coming from the outer most manifold connector, quite a bit. Looks like I have a worn/leaking sealing ring...new project!

 

And the magic elixer Sea Foam has another use- exhaust leak detector! Pour it in the tank, pour it in the crankcase, or pour it down the intake, it just works all kinds of magic, huh!!!!!

 

I've always used Seafoam, more via vacuum than tank. Cleans top of valves, crisper throttle response ensues.

 

I'm with you, no snake oil for me. Top tier gas, quality oil and filter at regular intervals, no need for any magic potions!

 

The secret to "crisper throttle response"... XFR!

 

Seafoam is a mix of light mineral oil, naptha and rubbing alcohol. That's it. A very effective product for it's original purpose of degunking 2 stroke outboard carbs but useless for any supposed valve deposit removal.

 

You're right, my twenty years of working on cars and using (and countless others) it is worthless now that you've chimed in.

 

25 years ago (when I had 20 years experience working on cars) is about the time that somebody burst my bubble about Seafoam and similar products, so you're in good company. The guy pointed out that a contaminated intake valve could sit in Seafoam for the rest of time and the deposits would not dissolve. None of the three components (listed above) are effective in the least.

Don't feel bad, there's some people that still 'believe' after 50+ years. Marketing people are very good at what they do. Look at WD40.

 

Ok Mikey, the point of this thread wasn't about issues with regard to whether or not we've been duped buying snake oil. The purpose was for anyone else who'd had a similar issue to chime in, not your opinion on Seafoam. I think there are plenty of threads you can resurrect on that one.

 

No offense to you is intended, but now that you bring it up, I was wondering about the point of the thread. You did not really mean to imply that you Sea Foamed the engine in order to correct the wet coil pack, did you?

 

I didn't want to be insulting by pointing out that it's never a good idea to pressure wash an engine.

 

Come now, Mikey. "Never" is such a powerful word! I doubt any permanent harm was done, and it resulted (tangentially, I suppose) in finding the cracked exhaust manifold. A little misfiring until it dries out is not so bad compared to the feeling of having a clean machine. You might try it.

 

To quote Jim, "Let's keep it nice and friendly, guys."

Cheers,

Don

"No generalization is wholly true, not even this one." --Oliver Wendell Holmes, Jr.

 

No, seriously. Do a search and see how many guys have gotten misfires or OBDII codes after pressure washing their engines. No engine I know of was designed for such a thing.

There's better ways of getting engines clean.

 

I agree completely that the things you mention are likely results. Which of those qualify as "permanent harm"? I think you remember that I do not encourage engine washing and I have time and again mentioned the possibility of engine washing leading directly to the problems you mention. But, after drying out, no permanent harm has been reported, as far as I know, except the cases of the knock sensors. And I know from my experience that if they are cracked, even a morning dew can cause codes.

 

I agree with Mikey, pressure washing an engine should never take place while its in the car, sea foam ( and WD-40) are great for their ORIGINAL intent and I'll also add some people should let the moderators do THEIR job or ask for moderator status. The original intent on ANY thread in a public forum rarely stays on track and also goes off on tangents that are sometimes quite informative and helpful. These tangents can help others from making the same mistakes. I'm not going to tell anyone to play nice OR to stay on track......that's someone else's job here, not mine.

 

I can provide my opinion on both subjects touched in this thread (Seafoam and pressure washing the engine bay)

But I'll stick to the main topic...
I've pressured washed both my XJ6 and XJR when I first bought them. The XJ6 I think I've done it twice in the 3 years that I've owned it and never had an issue with misfires or no starts afterwards. The XJR I've only pressure washed once about a week after I bought it and still, no issues. Both cars fired right up after the wash..... BUT it isn't to say I wasn't scared that I would run into the same exact issues mentioned above.

My dads 1995 XJS... so same AJ16 engine. It seems everytime he pressure washes his engine, it has to sit in the same spot for 3-4 days. He runs into the no start issue. I think he's done it twice and both times it's had to sit in the drive way because of the issue. But after those few days everything seems to be ok... no more misfires or no starts.


So the reason I pressure wash my engine bay is because I've never run into an issue with both x300's.
I think you just have to be careful where you focus the spray. I mainly try to keep it away from the valve cover and most electrical components. I usually focus everything in the front of the engine.

 

Going back to post#1, the engine was washed with the coil cover off. That's the major error. A number of V8 owners reported problems after washing and that's probably because of the skimpy gaskets on the coil covers and warping of the plastic.

But I just wouldn't take a chance, even with low pressure water.

 

I had cleaned the motor in the same fashion many times before on this X330 and every other car I've owned before. The only other time I had an issue was with my '90 Ford Mustang GT. Had to rock a hair dryer on the cap & rotor to get it to run. It was not having the coil pack cover plate on in this case.

 

I've washed engines my whole life without any issues, but it has always been with low pressure water and taking care around electrical components.

Of course as the years have passed, engines have become loaded with more electronic components and more reliant upon them. So I am a bit more careful these days, even covering some critical components or those known to have issues with water such as the gauges on my Guzzi.

However, engines (especially motorcycle, etc) are designed to be exposed to the elements and "sprayed" with water as they are driven. So they have some resistance, but certainly not immunity to focused water jets. So while one does have to be careful, I believe it is completely reasonable that one should be able to wash an engine without too much concern.

I wash my engines with gentle degreasers/detergents a few times a year, and of course things like motorcycles more frequently. While no problems have shown up, I suspect I'll get some misfire or other issue eventually as some water gets somewhere it shouldn't. But I also plan for that by washing them so that I can give them plenty of time to dry out.

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