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Hi My 1996 Jag XJR (new to me 3 days now) the drivers door suddenly wont open or unlock from inside or outside tried central lock, key what can be problem ? how to fix?
Welcome to the forum!
There have been reports of the cable becoming dislodged, but that normally only affects the inside door handle, IIRC. People have reported having to use the outside door handle until they mend it.
Security and locking module, located in the boot under the fuel filler neck, has caused problems with the car locking/unlocking in total, all doors, etc.
Sounds like your issue may be a mechanical failure in the driver's door locking mechanism. I don't recall any threads on such a failure, but I'm sure someone more knowledgeable will be along shortly...
Troubleshoot a little before you go tearing into your door panel. I hope for your sake that it's not the locking actuator, but if it is, those threads can help you in remedying the issue.
I am new to Jaguar and and not one of the masters with alot of experience but you can cut the isssue in half by removing the battery positive cable and use the key on the outside ( clockwise to unlock ) or the locking post on the inside to mechanically open the door . My outside key barrel is stiffer then what I would like and will work on it later as there was a post on it somewhere . If successfully it would show that the one door or manys locking solenoid is being electrical driven to the lock position by the Security Control and Locking Module .
To reset the hiccup in the module if it is the case there is a Jaguar " Hart Reset " of the car that reboots like in a PC . In the steps :
1. Remove car stereo to prevent anti- theft system from activating
2. Ensure battery is fully charged
3. Key to the on position , not start
4. Remove both battery terminals and connect with a jumper clip or hold to each other for a period of time , the longer the better ( this will not short the battery or fry the cars electronics )
5. Reconnect battery post with key still in the on position .
6. Rotate key back to off
Your engine may run rough for a while as the engine ECU relearns some perimeters of engine regulation .
Last edited by Lady Penelope; Oct 5, 2017 at 08:19 AM.
I read about disconnecting negative post , get a cup of coffee then go back & rehook- did it and no difference - the strange thing is when I lock it - I hear the drivers door make sound 5 times over like its trying to lock it .stuck actuator?
The electrons must flow in the opposite direction to drain the charged capacitors and electronic latches in order to get the logic in the ECU to go to zero state or reset . By taking the positive to ground you allow a path for the flow of electrons out in that direction using the car body as a electron tank . By just removing the negative cable you are keeping the electrical pressure on a device , ECU in this case , but no flow in the operational direction to make it function . By just taking the positive cable off you are removing the electrical pressure which will take some things to zero state and then again no flow for the device to function .
Buy hearing the actuator cycle 5 times the ECU is trying to move the lock and come to an agreement to a position by a follow up ( or null ) switch and gives up after 5 tries .
It could be binding , follow up switch bad , or ECU logic squirreled up.
Edited
Last edited by Lady Penelope; Oct 6, 2017 at 10:16 AM.
How it works electrically is as you rotate the driver door key clockwise the key barrel switch provides a ground to pin CA18 -6 of the SLCM . The SLCM is ground seeking at this point with the green print wire . The SLCM itself provides a ground for the pulling coil of the driver door unlock relay by way of SLCM pin CA21 - 2 with the red print wire . This allows power from the left heel board relay # 1 ( 15 amp) to go though point 43 along the blue print color wire the the lock actuator motor at pin DD3 - 3 driving the lock open . It needs the ground through the overcenter switch along the yellow print color wire .
What you can do is switch the driver door unlock relay with the door lock relay . If it unlocks the driver door only as wire design the bad relay will not lock the door until you switch them back . If this test proves inconclusive you can read with a meter through the slate / blue official color wire at the driver door unlock relay to ground showing you have a bad motor in the actuator unit .
Don't read the SLCM wiyh a meter as that can be risky
The SLCM is located in the left trunk behind the carpet
I'll have to do this test on my car to see if I am not correct
Last edited by Lady Penelope; Oct 7, 2017 at 05:12 PM.
The SLCM is located between the sheet metal and the fuel pipe and you have the scoot over the spare tire cover / floor in order to peal out from the bottom the side panel . The 2 x 10 mm nuts will spin off after 1/4th turn . The CA19 connector is the one at the top as it is installed ,
Still Verifing
key barrel switch :
Lock post up through
Last edited by Lady Penelope; Oct 7, 2017 at 07:34 PM.
How do you know it is a bad door latch and not an associated component? When my drivers side door wouldn't open, I found that the door cable had broke and would not pull to unlatch the latch...
Cannot help to note your knowledge and expertise in the electrical issues in many of the posts. Not sure if you have seen my recent post, but we have recently acquired a 1997 XJ 6 Vanden Plas. The door locks do not work by remote, key or dash button. I have checked fuse and it is good. I checked the big harness top right of the gas tank and it is secure. Upon removing the tank cover I did find a harness hanging down but I do not find anything that it can plug into. Not sure what this is or if related to my problem. See pictures. My concern is that the SLCM is bad but it is a $500 investment. Do you know or can you recommend and testing procedures I can try?
Originally Posted by Lady Penelope
How it works electrically is as you rotate the driver door key clockwise the key barrel switch provides a ground to pin CA18 -6 of the SLCM . The SLCM is ground seeking at this point with the green print wire . The SLCM itself provides a ground for the pulling coil of the driver door unlock relay by way of SLCM pin CA21 - 2 with the red print wire . This allows power from the left heel board relay # 1 ( 15 amp) to go though point 43 along the blue print color wire the the lock actuator motor at pin DD3 - 3 driving the lock open . It needs the ground through the overcenter switch along the yellow print color wire .
What you can do is switch the driver door unlock relay with the door lock relay . If it unlocks the driver door only as wire design the bad relay will not lock the door until you switch them back . If this test proves inconclusive you can read with a meter through the slate / blue official color wire at the driver door unlock relay to ground showing you have a bad motor in the actuator unit .
Don't read the SLCM wiyh a meter as that can be risky
The SLCM is located in the left trunk behind the carpet
I'll have to do this test on my car to see if I am not correct
Door wont unlock
