So for the past year i have ignored the JAG

quite a few problems are now making me want to sell the car or invest time and money to make it my daily driver again!

i have had this beast for around 7 years now!
1996 jaguar vanden plas 4.0 220k miles!

I love to make detailed D.I.Y ( How to for dummies) But i make need a few questions answered before i go ahead and do that!

Since it has been so long and i have so many cars. i kinda of spaced out on the INFO on my jag!I will make the d.i.y very very detailed so any links to previous ones will help me a bunch

I will need a Link to Repair Manual !
Link to D.i.Y Rack n Pinion
link to D.i.Y power steering pump
link to D.i.Y Power steering hoses
link to tell what type of transmission i have
Link to fix door cable ( i did it before but i forgot not ;'( )
link to fix lower rad hose
link to water pump

 

so today i went to the junk yard and i got a door cable and door lock actuator for the front. i also got the door panels and wood trim. ill make a diy tomorrow. the window had to come out

 

Transmission ZF4HP24 for Sovereign and Vanden Plas ZF4HP22 for Sport , not ZF for XJR or XJ12

 

Tyvm so it is zf

 

Ok so I'm going to do an order of

New coolant system

All hoses
Water pump
Thermostat
Temp sensor
Radiator


I'll make nice d.i.y for you all

 

Rack n Pinion , this may or may not be for the X300 but is in the ball park . I have not succeeded in cross referencing the X300 Jaguar part numbers with that of ZF but I do know the Sport and Sovereign do not have speed variable Servotronic servos where the Vanden Plas does . Can't say for the XJR or the XJ12 . Will have to find the engineering drawing of someones solution for a shim to resolve the play in the rack mounting dimension

 

Good to know I found a rack for 190 with evo

 

ok so on monday i have the day off and will make atleast one d.i.y

I just ordered for a start

1996 JAGUAR VANDEN PLAS 4.0L L6
AAE 3119V Rack and Pinion Complete Unit $ 187.79 $ 200.00 1 $ 387.79
Shipping Ground $ 8.99
Order Total $ 396.78



1996 JAGUAR VANDEN PLAS 4.0L L6
ÜRO PARTS MNA4510BF Radiator Lower Hose $ 36.79 $ 0.00 1 $ 36.79
Shipping Ground $ 6.99
Order Total $ 43.78



1996 Jaguar Vanden Plas

SKU: W0133-1609096
Pump to Rack
75.48



Eurospare Power Steering Return Hose - Cooler To Reservoir
1996 Jaguar Vanden Plas

SKU: W0133-1616086
55.48


Original Equipment Power Steering Return Hose - Rack To Cooler
1996 Jaguar Vanden Plas

SKU: W0133-1656656
75.48



Eurospare Power Steering Reservoir Line Hose
1996 Jaguar Vanden Plas

SKU: W0133-1627889
25.48




next will be


Tie rod ends
rebuild service for the power steering pump.
new power steering reservoir
Radiator
water pump rebuild service
thermostat
temp senor
any other coolant hoses besides the ones i just got
all new o2 sensors


I NEED HELP WITH C.A Cats ! any one have any sources

 

If you're diving into the lower rad hose, no point flying blind:
https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/x...enewal-101914/

 

Tyvm big help

 

Found this on another forum for cleaning Cats

" I had read about the citric acid/oxalic acid method on the Tundra Forum (and other places) and although it seemed a bit complex I decided to track down the products needed. Turns out it was easy to find both the citric acid and the oxalic acid. The citric acid, $2.99, was purchased at Walmart (in the canning section) and the oxalic acid (it's also called Wood Bleach) was purchased at my local Ace Hardware for about $8.00. Cheap.

The formula I used was 2.5 ounces of citric acid and 24 grams of oxalic acid, both at the same time, per gallon. Always wear gloves and safety glasses when mixing or handling this stuff. Do not get any on your skin!

To use the minimum amount of this mixture, I made a 4"X4" plexiglass plate that had four holes in it to match the pattern on the cat flange and put a large o-ring between the flange and the plexi plate to seal the end of the cat and bolted it together.

Standing it on end, cat end down, I then filled it with the citric acid/oxalic acid mix until it came out the oxy sensor hole just above the cat. It took about 3/4 of a gallon to fill to the oxy hole.

The cleaning process called for the cat to be heated to about 150F and because it had about five feet of tube after the cat, I hung it from the ceiling in the garage with the cat end down by using a wire. I then placed two 500W shop lights on it, one on each side spaced about 6 inches away from the cat and they heated it up nicely to between 130 and 160. I used my infrared thermometer to check the temps.

After about five or six hours of heating it, I poured the acid solution into a bucket and it was dirty, sort of a muddy grey sludge collected at the bottom of the bucket after it settled out for a few minutes. Good so far. At least something came out.

I rinsed it with the sprayer on a garden hose and then to dry it, I blew air through it for about an hour using my shop vac. After that I peered inside with my flashlight and 300+ reading glasses and I could clearly see that the areas of the honeycomb that had previously been plugged up with the light grey carbon were now clean and silver in color. Cool. Maybe, just maybe, this will work this time.

I installed the cat leaving the oxy sensor out temporarily while I let the cat warm up and dry further by idling the engine for about 10 minutes. Once warm, I shut the engine off and reinstalled the oxy sensor and took a long drive waiting for the check engine light to come on. The check engine light normally trips at 75 miles. This time it didn't! Another couple hundred miles and no light! Nice.

It's now been about 480 miles and so far so good. "

 

any links to forums i can read?
i can make an excellent d.i.y for this as well

 

That catalyst cleaning method sounds interesting. I had watched some videos that mythbusted some of the catalyst cleaning products out there, but none included heating the catalyst. The problem with most of them was that they claimed to fully clean and restore function.

Even if it doesn't "restore" (how could it after all) what has been used up in the catalyst, it is interesting to hear that it successfully cleared out the obstructions which itself is a plus.

Yeah, if you have a link to the original article, that would be great

.

 

Not having done this myself for Penelope I have done some research into this having majored in Chemical Engineering so it interested me . I did find some oxalic acid on the store shelf at a specialty woodworking store and not at the hardware store . The newer products of wood cleaner or deck cleaner have gotten away from the original oxalic acid and I would not recommend them based on no information . If I can learn later how to link a website ( Upload File from a URL icon ? ) I'll get that to you along with other stuff . With respect to the 420 code ( Catalyst System Efficiency Below Threshold ) that it resolves it leaves behind the catalyst compounds on the ceramic honeycomb substrate as well as better flow though of exhaust . I do have some recommendations as I have thought through the repair process 4 months ago and that is 1 . Use a good soap and water cleaning beforehand so your solution can better get down to business 2 . Heat may not be needed but it would take longer . 3 . you can probable find a cheap use large stockpot at a thrift store 4 . I saw somewhere were someone simply put it on a BBQ grill for a heat source . 5 . Do it outside for safety sake for the unknown off gasses

Thanks , Joe

 

Looks like it strips the catalytic metals so it would be time dependent ( hot or cold soak ) to not go to long . I'll try to figure how to determain that point for each car has a different amount of surface contamination . A litmus paper would be nice if it existed

 

This is the link to the quote in previous post . Notice there are 2 pages of their thread topic . I'll have to look up the Spain University scientific paper for I 've seen it before . As for determining if you let it soak too long I guess to ol eyeballs would work to look inside the cat . But as it is an acid , eye protection is a must . Harbor freight has them cheep

https://bobistheoilguy.com/forums/ub...pics/3391904/2

Thanks , Joe

 

Good job Joe. I will make the d.i.y and give this an attempt

 

Martin should probably answer this since it is his software, but a quick google turned up pure anhydrous citric acid on amazon, so yes yours is likely pure (not analytical grade, but pure enough).
When you are dealing with solutions made from powders, % refers to g/100mL, so 100% citric acid solution would be 100g in 100mL water (for solutions made from solutions, it is a little different). I have no idea what its solubility is. You should be able to enter whatever % you like in Bru'n Water, see how many mL it says to add, then do some math to convert that into mg or grams or anhydrous citric acid, and add that directly to your strike water, rather than making a stock solution. Or just make a stock solution.
I tend to take the path of least steps (i.e. just add powder to strike water).

From Where to buy citric acid

 

In my opinion you can do the stripping in 2 steps first being the citric acid then the oxylic acid . The strength of the citric acid not being critical in that you are getting it clean so the oxylic acid can get in contact to the business of leaching . Aqueous solution of citric acid can be found in the form of Mean Green ( Dollar General ) or other other cleaners usually colored orange for marketing reasons . Powdered Anhydrous citric acid can be found a Whole Foods in their large cooking chemistry section ( I'm a Closet Chef , some day I'll come out ) or the health store used as a cold preventive supplement .

The oxylic acid strength is not that critical as the limiting reagent in the process is the soak time with the aid of your eyeballs to know how for you have gone in the leaching process .