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How do I Remove and Replace the Differential in a 1996 XJ6
I need to replace the differential in my 1996 XJ6 and would like to know what the steps are so I don't screw anything up. I purchased a used differential that is supposed to fit. I also purchased a right rear axle because the threads on mine were ground down on the end (some body beat on it and mushroomed the end). Does ANYBODY have a pdf file on the removal and installation of the rear end and a list of any special tools that might be needed?
Any helpful advise would be greatly appreciated.
I need to replace the differential in my 1996 XJ6 and would like to know what the steps are so I don't screw anything up.
Hi Terry,
I don't have a pdf but I have several phototutorials on the topic. The photos are of our '93 XJ40, but the Independent Rear Suspension (IRS) is essentially identical to the X300 (your wishbones will be different, and possibly a few other details, but otherwise it's all very similar). I'm including links to some related components that you'll want to check while you're doing the diff swap:
Mine is a 1995 XJ6 North America ...
I followed the steps in an article of "Jaguar World Monthly" magazine, but the links Don has above are great, too.
Can't remember issue, around the year 2000 I think - it seems they only have back issues back to 2011 now ...
Anyway I also supplemented with some of those articles above because I did shocks and rear wheel bearings at the same time.
I got a good deal on a differential several years ago and had it (and the magazine) sitting there for at least 2 years while I dreaded doing it.
Finally had a wheel bearing fail and I put it up on the jack stands Nov. 2012, I think.
It was not too bad, and it sure is a lot more quiet now.
I would say also, unless you know better about the differential, drain and flush the first batch of gear oil quickly - like maybe after about 20 - 50 miles. Not sure of the exact logic on that, but since it was sitting around for so long, I thought that would be prudent.
@Don B tried to send you a return message but your box is full. After having the shop replace my Diff fluid and 1 inch chunks came out looks like I need to rebuild/replace my Diff
If the internal pinion gearing is OK but issues with the input and output shaft bearings you can leave the Diff casting in place , saving a lot of disassembly of the suspension
On both the inputs and outputs there is plenty of experience from others
There is a TSB on removing the output shaft bearing interference pinch collar keeping the common faulting output bearing in place attached ( pinched on ) to the just slide out shaft
Pic coming
This interference pinch collar is the bottom green arrow
The TSB is you drill holes in the collar and then split the collar with a cold chisel
Plenty of parts sources even on E - bay but I would not trust bearing quality as may be counterfeit / below OEM quality
Last edited by Parker 7; Jul 31, 2024 at 02:50 PM.
If the internal gearing is OK but issues with the input and output shaft bearings you can leave the Diff casting in place , saving a lot of disassembly of the suspension
On both the inputs and outputs there is plenty of experience from others
The output shaft bearings can be replaced with the diff in situ, but to replace the inner pinion bearings the diff really must be removed for a variety of reasons, not least of which is the torque required to set the crush sleeve (500+ ft. lbs.) and the sensitive measurement required to get the bearing preload correct (measuring inch pounds while rotating the pinion shaft 360 degrees).
The pinion seal can be replaced without removing the diff, if the pinion nut is carefully marked prior to removal so it can be returned to its original position, but if the seal is leaking and the diff is whining, the pinion bearings are worn. I have a full photo DIY in my photo albums at Jag-Lovers (see link in my signature).
A common symptom of pinion bearing failure is a "jet engine" whine that becomes audible when letting off the accelerator pedal at medium speed.
Wheel bearings tend to make a howling or roaring noise that changes when turning to one side or the other.
The differential output shaft bearings make a howling or roaring noise that does not change as much when cornering.
P.S. Phil, I'll delete some PMs from my inbox to open up some more room.
A point you bring up in the sound of whining vs. ticking or rythmetic clunking from a bearing can help you to decern the work needed to within a certain point of accuracy but not 100 %
Last edited by Parker 7; Jul 31, 2024 at 04:47 PM.