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I really thought I was done with this problem. Anyhow, it is only here and there that it does happen. You give it a bit of gas (let go of the pedal), it'll have a rough idle for a bit until it composes itself.. I will be done with school this semester and will have a month to work this out. At this moment I just need to plan on what it might be. I plan on doing some much needed maintenance as well on my break
-Oil change & filter (smell of gas, my guess is that the engine is being flooded and causing the stall)
-Valve cover gasket
-E-brake shoes
-Rear brakes - Brembos
-Finish installing KYB rear strut (already changed one and son of a b!(*# it was tough lol)
- Upstream O2 sensor (which I am thinking it might be the culprit, I belive they are the originals)
But I have posted a video below of the misfire. Does smell of gas. BTW there is no oil that seeps into the sparkplug wells, so I know its not that. In the video you can hear it idle and misfire. The video was taken after I ran to the gas station, about a mile down from my house and back. Engine was cold before that.
Thank you Lady P. I will be purchasing a bluetooth car reader (that way I may get real time data) because at the moment I don't have such thing. Hopefully by next week I will have one come in from Amazon. Hope all is well
Is there a way of refreshing the O2 sensors membrane by soaking in gasoline as I saw alot of soot come out of the vents . otherwise Bocsh has a cheap connector ready # somewhere
Last edited by Lady Penelope; Nov 17, 2017 at 12:26 AM.
You can do that however I don't know if it is effective. A while back I took out both upstream sensors and cleaned them out using an electrical cleaner (safe on the sensor per the label) but I saw no difference. I hope to post the data on all parameters that could help interpret the misfiring and stalling.
On my downstream sensors there was green corrosion in the sensor pigtail connectors . Keep in mind the Short Term Fuel Trim value should stay close to 0.0 as the engine load changes .Bocsh 13789 . Seafoam on the can says it's safe on O2 sensors .
I find STFT useless with the wireless readers as they only grab a reading every second or so. As long as the numbers are moving around, you’re probably ok.
What’s your LTFT? That would at least indicate what’s been going on with your fuel map.
I would also keep an eye on MAF and Throttle Position. Check Coolant Temp as well.
sorry I am now just replying..but my bluetooth is on the way and will have stats for you guys. So when I mentioned that i removed the O2 sensors and cleaned them, did I also mention that I connected them backwards
Anyhow no more stalling since I flipped both upstream sensors. I do have a question though, I will be changing valve cover gasket soon and while I am at it I also want to change the upper chain tensioner. I get a rattle on cold starts and as well as on idle (but slight). Do any of you guys have the item # or a picture? Google pulled up multiple and want to make sure I am buying the correct one. Thanks!
On the valve cover gasket be careful of the aft D shaped fillers for the cam machining as they fall out of position during assembly and not seen hidden behind there . Use a high temp gasket filler in the corners of the gasket itself in this D shaped area as they are not perfect . Also fill the plug well seal seats as the seal grove surface can be rough . There is a max torque value and pattern to the valve cover , but in reality they are shouldered bolts . You can add simple o -rings under the head of the valve cover bolts to give the gaskets ( original or new ) more pinch .Learned that from someone I can't remember .
Might try changing viscosity of the oil before going for tensioner hardware change unless you have hard evidence that it would be the next move toward resolution . In my opinion this source may be the most up to date .
I don't understand the mode if failure of this item and surrounding parts but I think it would be a good idea to clean the oil system sliding parts and passages with some Rislone oil treatment before changing to a different viscosity , my opinion .
Depending on your hearing and how you discern that it is your tensioner , I would recommend putting a spot of paint on each of the 3 crankshaft pulleys and timing teeth to monitor if they stay aligned . The suspect is the middle one being the harmonic balancer / dampener .
Veteran Member Aholbro1's pic
Last edited by Lady Penelope; Nov 28, 2017 at 08:54 PM.
I will make sure to follow your advice! Once I get to working on it I'll make sure to let you know in case I have questions lol
But right after work I took a quick video of the grinding/rattle noise I hear on cold start ups. I have seen other videos before as well as reading forums here and that seemed to help. Take a listen and let me know what you think.
I will check that! I don't think that may be the problem, but it doesn't hurt to try. I know its not the belts slipping as I have already replaced them with new ones (when I first purchased the car back in May the old belts looked like swiss cheese). My reasoning on the chain tensioner, when on cold start up the noise stops as soon as the oil pressure light goes off, from what I read in articles in this forum
"2.3 - Timing Chains ( Paul Stow, December 1, 2001 )
The chains are of the duplex variety and are extremely reliable in service. An oil based tensioner is used, which also appears reliable. Rattling from the front of the engine, particularly when cold, may however be due to ageing or failing of the tensioner or plastic chain guides.
Note, however, that because the tensioner is driven by engine oil pressure, there may be a small noise for a couple of seconds at start-up if the engine has been left for some time and this is not a cause for concern."
which describes my situation. Although it mentions that this is not a cause for concern, if its easy to perform then I might as well do it if I remove the valve cover.
Without having seen one that if it is hydraulic pressure extending like a hydraulic valve pushrod " lifter " , Rislone will surly free it up from tarnish binding the internal sliding surfaces without changing the oil viscosity before changing the tensioner . That stuff works for me .
If I understand the upper tenioner has a adjustment to it as it may change the preload on the timing chain before hydraulic oil pressure tightens it . Rislone will help it extend at a lower pressure . Oil viscosity would help . There is a brand of oil filter that negated the use of the metal internal bracing the keeps the paper filter from calapsing thereby reducing oil pressure . I never took mine apart as it was smeared with sealant around the outside for a leak . Broke a 1/4 inch ratchet trying to remove the bolts as they over torqued them to stop the leak . Left it alone for now . Lady P. was so under appreciated and behind the curve mechanically she was a toss in on another truck deal . Who ever bought it before then should have been smacked as they walked over to her and told to step away you are not worthy . But it kept the miles off .
See page 60
Last edited by Lady Penelope; Nov 28, 2017 at 10:04 PM.
Thank you much!! This will help when its time to do the valve cover gasket and overall handy to have.
I will purchase a bottle of rislone and let it sit until my "oil /valve cover gasket change". This should be done in the middle of December. You think that is long enough for the rislone to work? I drive about 30-35 miles daily. So I will put at least 400 miles by then.
Yes , then change the oil with it being warm and stired up and see the slug that it removes as it cools and settles in the drain pan . I use to put it in at oil change but I was wrong .
Last edited by Lady Penelope; Nov 28, 2017 at 10:18 PM.
Idling Misfire - Video
On the valve cover gasket be careful of the aft D shaped fillers for the cam machining as they fall out of position during assembly and not seen hidden behind there . Use a high temp gasket filler in the corners of the gasket itself in this D shaped area as they are not perfect . Also fill the plug well seal seats as the seal grove surface can be rough . There is a max torque value and pattern to the valve cover , but in reality they are shouldered bolts . You can add simple o -rings under the head of the valve cover bolts to give the gaskets ( original or new ) more pinch .Learned that from someone I can't remember .
