Hi all, a few weeks ago I purchased (against all warnings) a 1996 LHD XJ6 sedan, which broke down today. I have fallen in love with my car and despite having a Morgan mechanic in the family, he is very busy and so I would rather not ask him for help. So...I was driving along blissfully and suddenly she stalled. I then noticed that the temp gauge was reading very hot and that some steam or smoke was coming from the front. (I had briefly run the A/C just before this happened.) After a minute she started up okay, and I cranked the heater. The temp came down and I made it to a safe spot but then she stalled again. Long story short, I had her towed home. There was fluid leaking under the car, sort of brownish in color. I would be grateful for any advice.

Thank you!

 

If the fluid is not oil but radiator fluid (reddish but brownish if aged or diluted), there was a leak in the radiator system causing fluid loss and engine high temperature. The steam showed that the remaining radiator fluid had reached boiling point. Either the radiator fluid was below normal level, had a leak somewhere, one of the water hoses had burst, or the water pump or belt had stopped working. How long have you noticed that the temperature was high? Hopefully not for long, but stalling while in motion due to loss of radiator fluid is not a good sign. Stop using the car until you have fixed the leak or you will be looking at a much larger bill.

 

 

Thanks for the replies. Maybe I should mention that it stalled when I slowed down or stopped for a light. I didn't notice it being hot for more than a few blocks, however I wasn't checking the gauges since only the one I have any influence over is the gas gauge, and I had filled her up recently. When my car went onto the tow truck and I saw the fluid left behind, I touched it and it was brownish - I have no idea how old due to having just owned the car a few weeks. I hate to admit that even as I reached for it, I knew that whatever it looked like would be meaningless information to me. (Whenever I took my now deceased Mustangs to have the oil changed, I cringed every time the guys showed me what each fluid looked like...they were ALL brownish by the time I took it in. I know, I know! Judge me!)

In any event, prior to reaching the point at which I called for a tow, I did drive about 5 miles before it happened again, which elicited every prayer I could recall from my childhood years at Catholic school, plus a lot of curse words that I use far more often. I thought it would be a radiator or oil leak, then again by the time my previous cars broke down I was way past any replace hoses phase. When the tow truck driver tried to start her, she did turn over but immediately dies - the car was still somewhat hot at this point, and I haven't tried to start it since, for fear of doing more harm. The tow guy suggested that there was some minimal oil spots left behind on his truck, however this was stated after just glancing and he had already admitted he was not mechanically inclined. Still, he surely has experience with the residue from broken down cars.

So, I am wondering what my first course of action should be? Should I start her now that she's cold and report back? And seeing as how I do have a garage on the property, which despite being jam packed with Morgans does have all the tools required by such...might I be able to check hoses here before taking her to a less crowded garage for repairs? I sincerely appreciate everyone's knowledge and advice!

 

I agree on the +++++++ hose under the inlet manifold.

I would NOT run that engine until the source of the fluid leak is FIXED.

Having just purchased the car, I strongly suggest replacing ALL, and I mean ALL, the coolant hoses, and some nice fresh Green coolant. That, at least will give the beast a fighting chance.

AND

Since you have basically boiled it, the gunk that would normally sit harmlessly in the bottom of the engine, has now been stirred up and pumped around the system, so a radiator flush, AND the heater core flush is mandatory, at the very least.

 

It's the only one that's accurate on a Jaguar!

Got to absolutely identify the fluid first but from the description of events, it's highly likely to be coolant. As you have garage facilities at home, get it up in the air and check underneath for the source of the leak. As a general rule, the further back the source of the leak, the more expensive to fix.

"Brown" fluid could be old coolant, engine oil or transmision fluid. Losing engine oil would have been accompanied by more dramatic events and transmission fluid loss would have brought you to a halt without steam emerging UNLESS it's the transmission cooler lines going to and from the radiator.

I still think odds on for a coolant hose failure. Annoying but low cost to fix.

Graham

 

Water rail gaskets have a history of going bad , this is straight back behind the water pump under the intake manifold

https://www.jaguarclassicparts.com/u...-3-2-4-0-litre

The proper coolant color to replace is in this TSB below , no telling what you had and the added color of rust

The reason for the coolant change is the clogging of the heater core called matrix on this car

http://www.jagrepair.com/images/TSB/...n%20Change.pdf

Remember not to open the radiator cap when hot , ask me how I know

​​​​​​There are cheaper generic equivalents to the Jaguar fluid I can't remember now

If you want to go through the radiator 2 fans operation check procedure ask and we'll go through it

 

 

Without stepping on Vee's suggestion you can break it down in 2 sections

The top side and bottom side and see if the top side resolves your leak ( if that )

The somewhat straight section of hose behind the water pump can possibly be replaced by a section of generic by the foot hose from the auto parts store

The removal of the smog pump helps along with the black air intake hose for the rail gasket bolts under the air intake manifold

Feel under the water pump pulley shaft bearing area for a weep hole in the water pump casting for wet . This weep hole lets you know if the water seal on the bearing has failed

On the X300 you have a unique water circuit to a electric pump for cabin heater core use that comes from a hose on the top of the engine to the electric pump in front of the large brake booster diaphragm on a left steering wheel car . This brings up hot coolant faster and gets the cabin warmer faster

https://www.jaguarclassicparts.com/u...-3-2-4-0-litre

In summer driving conditions this can be blocked off and looked at later

The hoses are curved and special but can be repaired cheaply with generic hoses with couplers and clamps up to a point

You can run the engine on pure water to check for leaks and use radiator flush additive to help clear the heater core for better performance

There will be no lubricant for the water pump bearings during pure water operation and others may have advice on that

This keeps you from crawling under the car but you will probably do so as you chase it down

https://www.jaguarclassicparts.com/u...-3-2-4-0-litre

I have a pic of the cooling hose circuit to make better sense of the paths but can't find it now

There is 2 small hoses that go into the throttle body on the bottom side that prevent " carburetor icing " in cold weather operations that may have been left off and felt for if clamped down





Editing

 

for reliability and peace of mind replace themostat,water pump,all hoses and a proper system flush,steve.

 

I am very grateful for the replies! I almost feel as if I could do much of what is described (and this is coming from someone who always used the full serve lane to gas up her Vespa.) Looks like I have some shifting of cars in my near future to reach that lift.....the most likely to offend hose has been ordered and should arrive tomorrow. In the meantime I will work on the rest of the shopping list provided here. Thank you, hopefully I can report back with positive news.

 

A VESPA, now there's a mode of transport to be taken seriously.

You are correct, all that stuff is easy DIY for a novice, and always ask here if in doubt, thats why we are all here.

 

Okay, so what I found when I went to check the hoses....(I can't even claim that with a straight face - when my dad went to check the hoses is more accurate) is that one of them had completely come off. He reattached it, filled all the fluids and I think maybe she's ok?!? My plan was to take her in and have all the hoses replaced and do flushes as recommended, unless somebody thinks that the drive would do harm?

 

To test the 2 fans that they come on with rising coolant temp :

look on the refrigerant lines on the right side of the engine block

You will see 2 refrigerant pressure switches that turn on the fans in 2 stages , one or both with A?C demand

one pressure switch is a 2 wire connector and the other is a 4 wire

If the TSB has been done the 2 wire connector has a jumper plug installed which will keep the left fan running at all times

This TSB was done to prevent both fans coming on at the same time in certain senorios blowing the fuse

The fuse is # 11 / 30 green amp LH engine fuse box and # 17 / 30 amp green LH engine fuse box , the # 1 is always the one closest to the fuse box terminal post




Remove this jumper plug to test the coolant temp side only of the 2 fans control

The 2 temp radiator switch is on the left rear lower corner of the radiator with 3 wire

Remove the connector and with a paperclip jumper white wire to black and you will get the left fan only

Remove the jumper and go White / Blue wire to the same black and you should get both fans

This is a low current control circuit so no arcing hazard

Reinstall the 2 wire pressure switch connector jumper plug and watch the left fan only come on

in the bigger picture the thermostate that cab be way offThis does not test how accurate the temp sensor is and i

There have been some cases when the coolant pump does not spin from loose belts or delaminated harmonic balencer

ay togethert and this san be checjed by paibting 2 dots on the halves and see if they sroperly placed

To truly test the 2 temp switch you would have to remove it and test in a pot of hot water along with the thermostat that can be way off brand new out of the box

The replacement of the thermostat can be tricky if either the gasket or the flange not properly placed cracking the housing when tightening the bolts down , not replaced one myself so hearsay

The X300 does not have a overheat light

The gauge indication is not a true linear indication of temp . some mods have been done to do so

The gauge only temp sensor is the single wire connector on the thermostat housing with the copper washer under it that can corrode , can be cleaned

The 2 wire sensor next to it is the ECU temp sensor with code P0140 if bad

Editing / computer going nuts , not me this time , editing in morning

 

I doubt it, knowing what we now know, thanks to your Dad.

The hose dropping off has released the coolant very quickly, and the chances of a lot of muck being in the radiator etc is minimal.

If its full, NOT overfull, and leak proof, I would run it in the driveway for 30 minutes, coffee time, and watch the Temp gauge, and make sure nothing silly takes place, listen for the fans operating, etc.

If it passes that test,. drive it ONLY to the workshop.

I also suggest adding a thermostat and gasket to the list, as they can get flaky after an overheat that you have had had.

Good luck.

.

 

If the coolant was lost and car overheated, check for blown headgasket and warped cylinder head. It`s very likely that you`re up for a bigger repair.

 

Keep us posted OP. It should mentioned that whenever something like this happens you need to pull over immediately, open the hood, and see what's going on.