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So the 30mA draw on fise 6 is the data link.
it is the bluetooth OBDII adapter.
so yeah glad to have found the curcuit that is my problem being radio related.
now i just have to find it.
interesting seeing as though i installed the radio ages ago but only recently began having issues
Well done for finding the drain. It's good to see the possible causes of a drain should I get one.
Mine is all stock, so no modifications to worry about.
Last edited by Nobeel Masri; Feb 2, 2023 at 02:34 AM.
I have been touring around this huge country of ours for the last couple of weeks and have only just started to catch up on all the goings on so this may not apply.
You mentioned in a post that you determined that the current drain is the OBD II adapter, the adapter I have has two power inputs, one is switched with the IGN and the other is always hot so if you leave the adapter permanently plugged in it will drain your battery. I found this out after I hadn't driven the car for over a week and the battery was dead flat. If I drove the car every day the battery wouldn't drain much and the car would start normally.
Have a look at he attached file for the OBD connector pinout, particularly pins 9 & 16.
there is still also a power drain on my radio circuit i need to find.
i think i know what that is but need the time to check it out.
suspect that may be a little bit of a pain to find the exact cause and fix.
as far as the OBDII goes i assume the wiring and what not is all good as the adapter removed stops the drain. so i will just keep the adapter out unless i am using it for now.
if i really wanted i could interrupt the power feed wire with a relay that is triggered by an IGN or ACC. and then also run a switch to bypass the relay if i do want it on while the car is off.
i don't see the need for this but i may do it at some point just cus i can
or an easier option would be get an obdii extension lead.
remove pin 16 at the end that plugs into the car, (always on power)
and splice pin 9 (ign power) into pin 16 at the adapter end.
that way adapter can always be plugged in but it will only have power when ign is on.
So,
something in the radio is definitely drawing power causing the antenna to raise and lower on connection of battery.
unplug the radio harness and all is good.
Now to try and locate exactly what.
when i plugged the unit in there is some fluctuation and a spike up to just over 1A. Takes a little while to settle down. It causes the antenna to raise and then retract.
after about 5-10secs it settles down to .12A (120mA)
and then after a couple of mins it settles back down to the 60mA draw that is standard.
what i am thinking is that it is the sleep mode on the unit which i cannot test as when i disconnect the battery it full powers off.
when you turn the HU off it goes to sleep mode.
i suspect that maybe in sleep mode it is pulling excess power when really it should only be pulling a very tiny amount.
In full power off mode i know there is no drain but in sleep mode i suspect it may potentially be drawing excess.
i am unsure how to test this as disconnect the power full ***** down the unit.
If i put the unit to full power off it takes a little while to start and i would prefer it to be in sleep mode. So what i may do for now is wire a kill switch into the radio feed.
that way when driving the car regularly i can leave the switch on and have sleep mode active and have no problems. But when parking the car for a while i can flick the kill switch and cut power
Seems to me legacy of not purchasing a known car audio brand which is then compatible with an easily purchased ISO connector to plug into the vehicle entertainment system connector.
Not quite but yeah.
it does connect easily using an ISO adapter which i purchased and connected it with
So it is not an issue with the wiring at all but potentially and issue with the android system itself.
it may not be an issue at all. I am just speculating at this point.
if it is an issue it is only due to the standby mode of the android system.
There is a cut off at somepoint where i know it does leave standby mode and do a full shutdown. So j may be totally overthinking the standby mode.
but yeah it does appear that an android based system potentially does use slightly more power than a regular system.
which would not be an issue at all for a car driven regularly.
but quickly becomes an issue when the car is sat idle.
biggest issue tho was my bluetooth obdii adapter.
but regardless i have found a potential issue, and created a solution so all good.
atleast now my problem will be solved.
also going to install this under my bonnet for easy access to power to trickle charge when needed.
fantastic idea i saw on here. Thanks for that idea!!!!
I have fitted an android head unit to a Range Rover, and it had a menu setting which allows the user to set a length of time it remains on for after the ignition has been switched off. Have you checked whether yours has this, and whether it is set for a long time? Pretty much all modern head units, including the Jaguar original unit, require a constantly live power feed to function properly, so I am not sure that your kill switch idea is optimal.
there is no setting that allows me to set the standby time.
i can set it only to standby or to power off.
and always power off is not optimal.
i know at some point it does power off. but not sure how long that is at all. as after the car has sat for a while it does do a full reboot but that is something like 2 days maybe.
now the android systems are a little different to most systems as they are essentially a tablet. they do not require constant power store any data. all data is saved on the device when powered off.
the advantage of standby is obviously quicker boot.
however, having the device unplugged is no different to when it fully powers off.
also as i noted above i do not think i actually need the kill switch. i think the cause of my power drain was just my obdii device.
the killswitch on the stereo is just a safeguard for "if" i do find it still drains in standby. which i think it does not as i have noted.
it will only be used when parking the car for an extended period if i do find it is needed.
would be no different to unplugging the battery which people do often anyways.
"A permanent live (B+) is used for things like powering the alarm system or keeping the remote central locking ready to listen for its plip. The use in an android headunit is to keep memory refreshed. Particularly useful for the fast boot models. Without a permanent live (memory live or battery backup) they would have to start cold each time and miss the fast boot. A permanent live (B+) connection makes the power available to your android headunit before the key is turned in the ignition. See our ACC wire post to complete the ISO power pair."
Last edited by Spud Maat; Feb 5, 2023 at 05:58 AM.
could be very handy. Solar Powered Battery Charger
most certainly help prevent any drain.
even if it is bad weather and can't work effectively it only needs a small amount of charging to compensate for draining.
There is a thing with the security system sounder behind the right headlights that the potting compound aging lets water in shorting out the rechargeable batteries inside internal charging system
I have had a battery drain on my X330 for a while. I recently removed the "sender" that I had permanently installed in the OBD" diagnostic port. This seems to have reduced/eliminated the problem. I hope! Alec G.
One of the pins in the OBD 2 port is hot at all times wired directly to the battery
YEP.
which is why i just brought a splitter cable.
on one of the plugs i snipped pin 16 (always hot) and spliced it along with pin 9 (ign power)
so now the splitter cable gives me 1 plug always hot.
and a second only on with ignition that i have plugged my bluetooth ELM into.
