So I bought a 1997 XJ6 that has been sitting for a few years. Owner said it needed a starter, because it just clicks. So after getting a GOOD, big battery, fully charged, and putting a couple drops of oil down each cylinder to help a little with lubrication, it turns over fine.

So I really want to drain the "gas". In another thread, I've heard of disconnecting the incoming fuel line at the fuel rail, running a hose to a gas can, and letting the fuel pump pump it out (gauge reads 1/4 of a tank). So I tried that, but no fuel is coming out when I have key to on, or crank (cranked until oil gauge showed pressure).

Figuring there was some safety issue with trunk and hood open, I tried to jump the fuel pump relay. In the 1997 Electrical guide, it shows that "Fuel Pump Relay #1" is in the trunk, and I have a pin with +12v there, and the others are grounded. The diagram also shows "Fuel Pump Relay #2" should be just in front of where the battery is. However, I only have a connector there, plugged into a bracket, with no other wires, just black and brown, kind of heavier gauge wire (#16? pure guess). Wondering if someone already started robbing parts off this car or do some models simply not have anything there?

I've followed https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/x...ockage-116040/ but just as it was getting good, there were no more replies.

However, I'm now following https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/x...gaging-175257/ to see if there is voltage, now that I know what wire to check (red wire, yellow tracer).

Additionally, the check engine light stays on when attempting to crank (so this means engine is not immobilized?), also, I cannot hear the fuel pump when I turn the key on, but since the radiator fans kick on, I doubt I'd hear it over those anyway. Altho is "Position II" the one BEFORE the fans kick on? I'll have to go back out and try this stuff again.

 

Pulled the connector to fuel pump. I have 14v there... So, unless theres something with those other two wires in that connector (both blue), that provide a last ditch "dont actually run the pump" signal, I'm guessing I'm looking at a fuel pump replacement.

 

There will be 2 relays if you have the Supercharged engine, because they have 2 fuel pumps in the tank. You should be able to install a jumper between pins 30 and 87. If the fuel pump doesn't turn on, check the fuse. If the fuse is good, and you don't hear the pump come on, or feel it come on by putting your hand on the tank and connect the jumper, most likely the pump is dead and will need to be replaced. You can try banging on the tank with your hand to see if it wakes up the pump, but from my experience when the vehicle has sat for a while, the pump fails.

 

Thanks for the additional info. I checked voltages at the relay socket and pump connector, and there is indeed voltage there, so fuse must be good.
No vibrations from tank, no noise, hitting tank with hand, no change.
Ordering new pump now.
I did see a post about these global pumps, and the check valve going bad. The solution seemed to be to put an external check valve in-line in the tank. Could this be done in the engine compartment instead? Seems it would be easier to put there rather than more connectors and fittings inside the tank.?

 

You can put it anywhere in the feedline, just take care to orient it the right way.
Just my opinion (speaking as one who removed the tank JUST to fit the check valve) but I'd think it easier to fit inside the tank if you are already renewing the pump, than it would be to fit in the engine bay. Don't even need to cut a line, just a short new piece of fuel hose and two clamps.

 

Have you reset the "crash " switch button located forward of the ECU on the right side right foot area behind the small panel they fail and shuts down the fuel pump . You can jumper the 2 white wires .

 

Lady Penelope, OMG, I hope its not that! I *JUST* managed to get the tank out. If I bypass the fuel pump relay and it still doesnt pump, do I still have to worry about that crash button? I should be able to check that thing with a continuity tester, correct? Should it be normally closed?

Now that the hard part is done (HA!) and the tank is out, how do I remove that little 1 or 2 inch rubber hose at the top of the tank?has two metal clamps that come off by pinching. Does that rubber piece slide onto the metal tube? That seems the only place it can go, considering theres no room to pull it off the two thingys, or is there?

 

Remove the locking ring first, then you can separate the evap hose as you pull the evaporative flange out.

 

Thanks.. that was "easy"... Packin up for the night, will play more tomorrow, but I looked inside to see what I'm up against. I hope I can clean this rust stuff out. Any suggestions on what to use? Not sure if its caked on, or loose, maybe just pouring the last bit of gas out will get rid of most of it, then flush a fresh gallon or two?

 

Ewwe....nasty! Mine didn't look anything like that, I'm happy to say....(sorry for you) A magnetic LED flashlight will be quite helpful to illuminate the work area (but don't leave it inside when you button up) You may also want to remove the sending unit - another locking ring on the back of the tank - to get that out of your way and provide additional light. Doesn't look to me like that row of corrosion along the upper-right of the photo will drain out with the fuel. I'd start with a plastic scraper because a wire brush can make sparks. However, I don't hold out much hope for its success...you'll probably end up with something more abrasive, just remember you have fuel fumes there in an enclosed space.

There may be a shop that specializes in cleansing fuel tanks of such gunk, and they should be reasonable given you have the tank out.

 

That was terrible, much worse than mine. Can't imagine how the inside of the fuel pipes look like downstream beyond the fuel filter. Agree with aholbro1 that it had better be cleared and cleaned by the professionals while you have the tank out.