It's not actually a resistor but a capacitor that you would have to observe it's behavior by having the meter on resistance check

If the capacitor is good you will see the resistance value climb . then calapes

This will take some time to watch and not a 2 second meter lead touching

I had the Bosch # on another computer that went Boom Boom so will have to research

 

This is a posting on the X300 supercharger intercooler pump Bosch substitution which X your heater pump

The Bosch # of interest is in there

Supercharger Coolant Pump - Jaguar Forums - Jaguar Enthusiasts Forum

 

I replaced the pump with a bosch unit and it works well--better than ever!
Thanks for all the support!
Jomo

 

Bosch # 0 392 022 010

Any adaption hints ?

 

Technical Specs :

.pdf]BOSCH-0392022010[1].pdf

Sources :

RockAuto



Bosch 0 392 022 010 for sale | eBay

Mercedes Auxiliary Water Pump Cooling System Bosch 0-392-022-010 0392022010 000-500-03-86 0 392 022 010 4047024119789 000 500 03 86 0.392.022.010 0005000386 000.500.03.86 | Pelican Parts

 

I cut the front of the plug off and had good access to solder wires to the terminals. I then taped back the part I cut off. It came out sturdy.
I went to Lowes and purchased two adapters that allowed me to connect the existing hoses to it as well as the larger hoses (purchased at Lowes) which went to the pump.

 

Which wires to which as there may be 2 blacks to solder together and be straight fwd

The plug comes with the motor ?

 

I had this problem years ago. I just ended up buying a used unit off ebay. No worries.

 

Sorry for the delayed response. No plug with my motor. However, the terminals was marked with a + and - so I just used a meter to determine how to wire her up.

 

So I checked my pump, and it seems to be working. I took 12v to it, and it spins fine. However, I still don't have heat. I felt the hoses all around it, and they all seemed warm except the hose that I think goes to the heater core. I am wondering if it is the device just above the pump, I think the heater valve, may be bad. Or it could be that pump and does not spin when I connect everything back up. I tried multiple pumps and they all do the same thing. The chances that two are bad COULD be possible but I doubt it.

 

Could be a fuse for both

The water control valve not opening and giving you heat on the section of hose points to the shut off solenoid / valve

Figure 7.3 is missing from, your 97 wiring guide

Researching

 

I could not find the proper fuze. I can see a few relay's but I could not find a fuse. Could it be the heater valve? I do have another one, and I plan on changing that tomorrow. When I put it on auto and set it to 90 it seems that the airconditioner is running because it gets really cold

 

" When I put it on auto and set it to 90 it seems that the air conditioner is running because it gets really cold "

Means the fuse for the climate control module is intact , controls both heater and A / C

Was it that warm there as going to be 17 degrees here Wednesday morning with 40 MPH winds and snow

 

We had 60mph winds today but it was70.

so it is the relay or the valve you think?

 

Couldn't find it in the X300 wiring guides

fuses probably in the left engine bay fuse box and left heel board fuse box ( ? )

You may have replaced a fuse in the wrong open position

See page 21 , fuse # 8 left engine bay fuse box

could be placed in the next to it open position / slot

X300 1996 LWB.pdf (jagrepair.com)

See relay # 3 left engine compartment page 17

The relay can be out of mounting position

Could have sworn there was relays at the pump motor solenoid valve area

 

I checked all the fuzes, and they are OK. I will look into the relays, but I will change the valve to see what that does. That is the only thing I think it could be. One last thought: where does the temperature taken from to tell the system to turn on heat or air?

 

It is a Cabin Temp sensor / fan below the steering wheel column to the car's left

It gets clogged with lint and can only be cleaned with air , least removing the fan oil that lubricates it

The panel below the steering column has to be removed and cleaned from the back side

Pic coming

It gives no code when clogged as the circuit is just fine

It is a thermistor ( solid state device ) sensor and in my all-encompassing theory of Parker if it gets clogged the thermistor being feed energy is not dissipated by moving air and is biased to have a higher temp signal than actual cabin temp hence your A / C being on and heater not

 

Hmm. That would explain why there was no heat when I was driving around. I know I got the beeps on the climate control but did not think anything of it. I put everything back together over the weekend, so I know it is connected, but I'm not sure about the operation. I will have to pull it again and blow it out.

 

Can you please provide your hose adapters

 

I changed the valve and same issue. It looks like something is not telling the valve to open. I have 6.5v at the valve. I set it to 90 with auto and getting nothin but air conditioner. All hoses are very hot around the valve except the one going into the valve and there is no water coming out of the valve. So this tells me that the valve is not opening. I guess my next step is to check the relays. Need to figure out which one it is