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No mileage when key turned to run position, no start
Just recently I tried to drive my car. It has been sitting with occasional start ups from my Dad . When I went to start it it started cranking at number two key position instead of start. So I removed the ignition switch cleaned and replaced it now it cranks on number three position and I get no lamps or indicators or even mileage recording on the dash. The problem started after the battery was removed for sometime then replaced. With the test light I show power to the fuel pump relay and the ECM through the fuse. I removed the ECMEC you and the body control module open them up to check them they appear fine I replace them tried it again but still have the same problem. Can someone help me?
Thank you Lady Penelope for your quick response. The battery is in the correct manner. The fuses checked out excellent. I did the hard reset by disconnecting the battery cables and placing them together for about an hour. I proceeded to try to start her up again, no change. However, after cranking it for about 30 seconds, the odometer returned but I still don’t have any warning lamps in key position 2 or run. I noticed also that the headlights do not work, the high beams work, flashers work, horn sounds, radio, interior lamps, seats, telescoping wheel, windows, alarm, door locks, instrument panel lights up w/ lamps on, and dim when adjusted, inertia switch is operational. Heater controls don’t function, and I don’t hear the fuel pump. She cranks pretty good but will not fire. Thank you for your help.
Quick off the top of my head the fuel pump relay control fuse is in the left or right heelboard rear seat fuse box . Swap the king relays on the 2 fuse boxes . If you keep the key on while doing so you should feel them click in your fingertips
This fuse also powers the OBD - 2 port
The key position 2 ( not wire pin position ) controls certain fuse boxes
Last edited by Lady Penelope; Oct 15, 2018 at 08:37 PM.
The LH engine fuse box relay is a better relay to swap with as it only controls the horn in reality so less confusion as you swap sets of problems around
This horn relay can be considered a spare in a sense
Hello again Lady Penelope. Swapped relays, no click. Something different occurred by accident. On the key fob, I hit the arm/lock button twice and the headlights went on. Also, now the steering wheel does not move away when you remove the key.
Okay, I swapped out the relays on both sides of the engine bay, no clicking noticed. However, did try something different. I turned the key to start position, as it was cranking, I moved the shifter to drive position, the cranking stopped and everything went on, heater controls, headlights, brake lights, everything is lost when I move the key to the run position, turned the key back to start and then I moved it back to park , it started cranking again.
Just came in from the cold. The ground is good at the connector via continuity test with a Fluke Meter, unplugging the connector caused the steering wheel to return away from the driver and the chimes stopped, because the key was in place during this test.
I just did a recheck on the fuse boxes all around the car and found at the left-hand heelboard fuse box that all fuses were reading 12.4 V according to the battery except number 12, 14, 16, and they read 8.54 V is this a problem ?
Did you swap this relay with the LH engine fuse box king relay ?
The relay gets it's closing ground on pin 3 to 5 to car ground with the ignition switch , but it passes through the crash switch along the way
See page 38
You can push the reset button on this inertia switch or remove the connector and place a paper clip in the 2 white wire sockets as this switch can fail to reset and can be fickle
Bed time
Last edited by Lady Penelope; Oct 16, 2018 at 11:02 PM.
Thank you very much for the link to pages 36 & 38. I have a better understanding of the functions now. It is late, rest well my friend. Tomorrow is another day. I will bypass the inertia switch and juggle the relays again and maybe resolve this problem thanks to you.
I have just given up for now because I have to return to Puerto Rico. I guess I’ll have to try and get Luna started next summer. The next thing I will try is a continuity test from the ignition switch to the BCM wires and then from the BCM to the ECM if nothing shows up at the BCM. Thank you again for all your help and I want to wish you safe and happy holidays season. Respectfully, Zorro.