Hey everyone,

I searched high and low on the forum, and I couldn't find this exact issue. Hopefully I'll be able to fix it for future reference, but I'm wondering if anyone knows what could be causing this.

My right passenger-side door won't unlock or lock automatically, and if I manually unlock it, it won't trigger any of the other doors. Pulling the handle won't unlock the door, either. There's no issue with the latch detection, as it will trigger the interior lights properly.

I dismantled the door and got to the electric mechanism that's in charge of locking. I opened it up and couldn't find any faults with the motor (I could hear the brushes working, all the solder points were intact, and the plastic gears were fine), and the wiring appeared to be fine. I might add that it was almost impossible to get the module off due to the position of the screws, even having unbolted the latch from the door. The window module is in the way.

There are 4 wires going to the module--2 to the actual locking motor itself, and 2 that stretch further to what I assume is the latch sensor. I assume that if the sensor is getting power, the motor should be, too, but I couldn't get the motor to spin while in the door, and I couldn't figure out how to remove the latch sensor to test the motor itself.

Has anyone encountered this issue? Where could the problem lie? The door lights, window, latch detection, and speaker all work fine. There is only one fuse controlling all the central locking, so that can't be it. My only real clue is that the problem must be from a lack of use, since the rear seats look brand new, and the doors feel very tight.

Thanks in advance, guys.

 

this is a maybe....I used to fit a lot of door actuators when I was selling X300's from 2002 to 2008, common symptoms being nothing much happening or central locking bouncing...sort of dead to the world, but....

...I did have some sucess by removing the offending actuators/door locks, putting them in a plastic bag of WD40, shaking it all around and then leaving overnight. Drain out in morning and then refit, worked a lot of the time, I believe this was more a microswitch issue, but hey it worked.

The units working moving parts can get a bit sticky from lack of use and have only this afternoon dealt with a central locking issue whereby the system was bouncing 3 times before locking, in this case it only required the driver's door panel being removed and spraying WD40 into the actuator and lubing every moving part from the key lock onwards...I could tell something wasn't right as they key was stiff to turn to lock.

Initially I thought this bouncing was down to a draining battery, but a new battery didn't cure it, lubing the parts did.

I will be lubing the rest of the door locks tomorrow as I still have a issue somewhere with the alarm, all this is down to a lack of use with my car having being used rarely over the last 10 or so years.

The doorlock 'WD40 drowning' method also works well with Pug 206 locks, Beemer and Merc' locks too

good luck

 

Thanks, iconic, for the info. I don't think that's it, however. I tried unlocking the doors with the module open, and the motor didn't spin. Unless there is something in the locking mechanism that would prevent the motor from activating, e.g. a stuck sensor? But I don't understand why I get zero feedback from the motor. I will try looking in the door hinge for a broken wire, even though the window controls, lights, speakers, and door sensor still work...

 

Power probes are a real help with issues with like these...but not wishing to tell you how to suck eggs but use wth care

Sealey PPX is my choice, it has lights to help with those dark areas

 

The problem can be actuating rods that are simply stuck thus preventing the motor from rotating. Had one on my X300 when I first bought it - together with a myriad of other issues. I suggest you "exercise" the rods and use a light lubricant whilst locking and unlocking with the remote.

 

I am having miscellaneous door lock issues on my driver's side door, and am hoping it is similar in cause. Is it a fairly easy process to safely remove the parts to clean and 'drown in wd-40', or should I let the shop do this? Any suggested best links to what I should expect (images, etc) are greatly appreciated. Thanks in advance!

 

There are a couple of different lock configurations and SLCM connector wire pin maps on the X300 / 95 - 97

Would need to know the year , Fob frequency on the Fob battery cover , and if you have 2 key barrels ( left and right )

 

It's for a 2015 F-Type R V8. I am unsure of the FOB freq (have a case that is screwed on at the moment), or if the fob even matters, as it functions fine on the rest of the car. I can check whether there is a 'right' key barrel (passenger door?) but the main issues I am having are:

- pressing door unlock button on driver's side door handle does nothing to unlock door anymore
- Pressing handle on drivers side to lock goes in for a few seconds, then pops back out.
Passenger door handle functions normally.

As I have not yet opened it up to see what is inside, I was unsure if the issue was mechanical or electrical, but the hope is there is a mechanical failure not properly triggering the actuator/sensor that could possibly be cleaned to resolve the issue.

 

This section is for the X300 / 95 - 97

Suggest opening topic in the other area for their experience

XF (X260) - Jaguar Forums - Jaguar Enthusiasts Forum

 

My hope was that it the issue was common among jaguars and that it may be year/model agnostic, and that someone with a similar issue may have had advice or suggestions. With some of my past vehicles (e.g. BMW, Ford, Ram) certain problems were common across multiple models and years, so I had hoped it may have been similar here. I will ensure I post in my vehicle's specific forum and hope that someone with an identical vehicle wanders in that may have had the same issue that may be able to assist, otherwise I'll just attempt my best at guessing how to fix.

Thanks.