What is the correct fluid for the X300/330 please

 

My book calls for ATF.

I use Synthetic ATF, coz I got left overs from the trans changes on this and the other Jags, and it handles the "heat" better than standard ATF.

I have used "Power Steer Fluid" for years, and no issues, but the Synthetic ATF is just handier and now significantly cheaper than it was a few years ago. i also believe that all my steer pumps are quieter with the Synthetic, or is battery fade on the hearing aids hahaha, seriously the X300 pump IS quieter.

 

As found in my 1996 Vehicle Care manual:
"Preferred" fluid is "Dexron II E"
"Alternative" fluid is "Dexron II D" - use only when Dexron II E is not available.

I highly suggest you obtain a Vehicle Care manual for your model.

If you want to opt for "Grant Francis"'s option, i.e., to switch to a completely different fluid (synthetic ATF), be sure to completely drain the [current] PAS system.

 

Not sure about the rest of the world.

Down here Dexron IID and E were replaced by Dexron III some years ago. As always it is "totally compatible" with ALL Dexron type fluids of previous specification.


We also have had for a couple of years now "Multi vehicle Trans Fluid" of mineral and synthetic formula. We do try and keep things simple down here in the colonies.

Some auto transmissions still require special fluids, Jagaur V8, AMG, Honda etc to name a few, but the X300 does not fall into that need.

Since the X300 was filled with Dexron from new, flushing is not required, but numerous refreshings of fluid in the reservoir will be needed to get rid of all that stale fluid in the system.

I have replenished the X300 fluid 5 times in 12 months to make sure that I have the freshest fluid in the steering system, and run Synthetic ATF, as I said.

This same ATF is what I run in the transmission of the X300, XJ-S V12 (TH400), MK10 (DG), S Type (1964) (BW66 now), S2 (3 cars) (BW12, BW65), S3, etc, and never had issues, bearing in mind that NONE of those cars calls for Synthetic ATF anywhere in any owners manual, most of the cars are too old to rate a mention on any synthetic chart.

 

After a bit of googling I found this:

Motul DEXRON III Fluid for automatic gearboxes, Power steering systems

DEXRON III

More fluid at low temperature than Dexron IIE oils, allows easier gear change in cold wheather.
Higher oxidation resistance than Dexron IIE standard.
Oil film stability under high temperature.
Anti-wear, Anti-corrosion, Anti-foam.
RECOMMENDATION
MOTUL DEXRON III can be used (and mixed) for applications where "DEXRON" , "B DEXRON" ,
"DEXRON II D", "DEXRON IIE", or "DEXRON III" is required.
Oil change : according to manufacturers’ recommendations and to be adapted according to your own use.

 

YEP, you just nailed it.

Enjoy the car.

 

Hopefully it will arrive tomorrow I ordered it through Opie Oil

Nearlly £12l - How much....

I thought it would be 4 0r 5 £

 

Sorry ... if going to a synth, I'd still drain the current non-synth, even if the fluid manufacturer states otherwise.

Would you mix DOT5 with DOT4/3 brake fluid? I hope not.

If you were 2 quarts low on engine oil, would you add synthetic to the engine's [currently filled] dyno oil sump?

Would you pour bourbon into the gin to "top off the bottle of gin"??

Personally, if ever i've switched formulas (oil: dyno to synth, etc), I've always drained the current type before adding to the new type.

 

I know this is an old thread, but it seems the most relevant since I'm trying to find out what the P/S fluid capacity is (can't find it quoted in any manuals). Can anyone who's done a complete fluid change tell me please? Also, is it easy enough to drain/bleed?

 

I dont believe it is.

Depending on which drain method you desire will vary what you need.

My way, of simply syringing it out of the container requires approx?????? 500ml.

To be perfectly honest I never take much notice of any fluid required specs, I fill until whatever is at its specified "full" mark on whatever dipstick/measuring device is supplied, and thats it.

I understand you want to purchase enough for the task and not get caught short, fine, so a 1 ltr bottle will just sweet.

 

I can't find the X300 capacity but the X308 capacity is:

PAS System : 1 Litre
PAS Reservoir : 0.4 Litre

No reason to think the two models would be different capacities.

Draining is straightforward by removal of the rack feed pipes and emptying the reservoir as Grant suggests. The filling and bleeding procedure is:

1. fill the reservoir to the bottom of the filler neck.
2. wait for any air to escape and top up again.
3. without the engine running, turn from lock to lock two or three times, topping up to the maximum level on the dip reservoir stick.
4. start the engine and immediately top up as air is vented.With the engine idling, turn lock to lock two or three times, topping up to the maximum level on the reservoir dip stick.
5. when no further change of fluid level occurs, run the engine for twenty minutes to vent any remaining air.If possible, allow the vehicle to stand for thirty minutes before restarting the engine to vent any further air.

Note that air in the fluid can temporarily result in PAS pump noise, but this will not cause damage.

Graham

 

You didn't mention why you wanted to do this. If the fluid is contaminated or very dark from wear you'll obviously want to drain it completely.

OTOH, if you just want to freshen the fluid, it's totally painless to (as Grant mentioned) draw out what's in the reservoir, top-off, drive the car for a day or two, and repeat the procedure 4-5 times.

Cheers
DD

 

Thanks guys, as always your help and advice is much appreciated.

Doug, it's been in my mind to do it because the P/S is the only fluid/oil in the car that I have not completely renewed in my 18 months of ownership. Having said that, there are no symptoms to cause concern and the fluid doesn't look dark or otherwise "worn". Also I'm cataloging all available data on the car and it irritates me when I can't find something as simple as the P/S system fluid capacity! I do get a bit **** with my pride and joy and I acknowledge that changing this fluid may well be an overkill. If I do decide to go ahead I like the idea of progressively syringing it out until all the existing fluid is purged, especially since there is no urgency to get the old fluid out.

Thanks again,
Tony.

 

The latest issue of The Jaguar Enthusiasts Club magazine has an article by Bob Bate on servicing the X300. The part on the auto gearbox says Jaguar part numberC2P 10393. Also, he writes "Our Jaguar x300 Vehicle Care handbook specifies Dexron III for these transmissions yet the dipstick sketch in the same publication shows Dexron 2D. The JLR TOPix web site lists Dexron 2D or equivalent. Interpreting both sources of information and referring to other literature it would appear that DEXRON 2D, 2E AND 3 are suitable lubricants."