My USA LHD 1996 xj6 is leaking from the passenger side through the boot. After close inspection I noticed the boot had some small tears in it and the leak was coming from there. Is the procedure for repair to replace the boot? Or do I need a whole new rack and pinion assembly?

 

ull need repair of the seal, the boot shouldn't be filled of PS fluid

 

Thanks Avioni, so since that side is the only one leaking I should take down the R\P and remove the boot and replace which seal? And is it a simple fix to do for the home mechanic?

 

there is a seal at the very end on each side of the R/P right where the terminal bolts into. its just like replacing an engine oil seal from the crankshaft or cams.
if everything works fine but just leaks it could be just the end seals the ones at both ends of the R/P. here is a schematic of a R/P its from another car. i cannot find the seal part number on the jag service manual. red marked are the seals.

 

here is a link to order seal kit.
Steering Rack Seal Kit - X11968 | Jaguar X300 - XJR | Jaguar | British Parts UK

 

I was unable to find the seals, and there is some set up involved in getting the end collars replaced anyway, I THINK. A rebuilt rack will cost between $300 and $400 or a junkyard one should be less than $200, but you don't know when it might start leaking. (I did not find the BP UK listing!)

 

So spark, what would you recommend? buying a new rack or redoing the seals?

 

I have never rebuilt a Jag unit, but it is similiar to Ford racks I have done. If you are a pretty good wrench, and you have a clean workbench, large wrenches, a set of pin drifts, and several extra hours to do the rebuild, and / or a lack of a small pile of money, I would say go for the rebuild. Before I did it, I woild make sure that is the Jag exploded drawing.

Avoni: Is it a X-300 drawing? The reason i ask is that I thought the X-300 was an electrically variable unit, and that is not shown on the explode. Maybe I am confused, since the X-308 does have variable ratio, and that is the model I have experience with.

 

I am a tad late catching up with this one.

ALL above is correct.

$$ is the key also.

My first, and cheapest suggestion, is to drain and refill the power steer fluid, using Synthetic ATF, and a new boot to replace the split one.

In all my years, the boots do get some oil in them, not heaps, but enough to make a mess if/when the boot splits.

New fluid does absolute wonders in any cars power steer system, as it is one of those forgotten fluids until busts.

If it does not sort it, your outlay is minimal, and a rebuilt rack is then required.

To rebuild the Jag rack does require some specific tools and specifications that most DIY (including me) are not privvy to.

 

no spark, that is not the jag rack exploded view. i mentioned it above its just to point out the seals.

 

Thanks for the info guys. Grant, the fluid is fresh as it leaks out within 4-5 days. I am not sure that replacing the boot will fix this issue.

 

Etaent
The x300 rack is probably fairly tricky to set up after disassembly, but,again, I have never done one. On the other hand, removal and replacement is fairly easy and straightforward. Hint! Tie the steering wheel at center before you begin. There is a "clockspring" in the column, and it makes setting rack center simpler, too.

 

Yup!

I like learning new skills and prefer to DIY as much as possible but I'm also terribly, terribly fond of doing a repair once and being done with it.

I take into account my experience, the required tools/equipment, the amount of labor involved, and my own tolerance for frustration....and choose the path that has the highest probability of success.

While removing and reinstalling the R&P isn't a horrific job it isn't one I'd particularly care to do 2 or 3 times, either.

Cheers
DD

 

Yes, the X300 has the electro variable assist as well.

I've never really cared for the feel. I always intend to unplug it just to see if the result will please me....but I keep forgetting!

Cheers
DD

 

Thanks for all the help guys, ive decided to have it replaced. its a lot to do at home and if something goes wrong I will have a pretty cat stuck in the middle of my community driveway.

 

OK so I had the rack and pinion replaced at a local shop and had an alignment done. Total came out to $580 with warranty. No more leak!

 

Money well spent!

 

[QUOTE=etaent;774132]OK so I had the rack and pinion replaced at a local shop and had an alignment done. Total came out to $580 with warranty. No more leak![/QUOT

The rack and pinion replaced on your car as mentioned, was it a surplus, remanufactured or a brand new rack and pinion assy ? Or did you just rebuilt your old rack n pinion by replacing the seals?

 

I will get an autozone Life time warranty rack n pinion. Reman with new electric parts for about $550. That way if I ever wNna replace agIn its freeeeeee

The rack is 2 hose connections and 5 bolts. Not hard at all