Well this sucks! I just spent 20 minutes writing out the process to replace a self-dimming, difficult-to-obtain Jaguar mirror with the identical common-as-grass one off a 1999 ~ 2008 Acura.

Anyhow, first let me thank those people who tried to find an old 'stained' mirror to donate plug on the end of the mirror wiring. I found my original one, exactly where it should be: in my wiring kit, beside my soldering iron and electrical solder.

Okay, here's what's happening. Donnelly made electrochromic mirrors for both Jaguar and Acura. The part number on the forward face of the mirror (towards the windscreen) is 011530.

Both are three wire, White / Slate Grey / Black, in that order. The difference is to plug that goes into the socket in the overhead compartment.

The plugs are not interchangeable and there is a risk of damaging the irreplaceable Jaguar version if disassembly is attempted. The better (or, at least safer) method is to cut the wires on both and join the Jaguar mirror plug to the Acura mirror.

Here's how:
Starting Condition - Prerequisites
The wires are not very securely attached in the mirror. Do not hold the mirror by the wires or tug on them.
Electrical solder is different from mechanical solder. It melts a much lower temperature and is designed to pass current, not hold two items together. Use only electrical solder and a soldering pencil or use a regular soldering gun on low temperature, only.
You will also need:
> 1/8" heat shrink tubing; cut in 1" (~25 mm) lengths for each of the three wires; and
> 1/4" heat shrink tubing cut to whatever length will overlap the wiring sheath on the Acura mirror and reach to the Jaguar plugh you're going to graft on.
The idea is, each small heat shrink tube provides electrical isolation and a certain amount of wire-to-wire joining strength. The larger tube provides the major strength, as well as presenting a more finished product cosmetically.
The following instructions assume the majority of existing wire is from the Acura mirror, as opposed to the Jaguar plug end. It does not matter which end on which you focus, the process and outcome is the same. This just how I am explaining it.


Instructions:
1.
From the Jaguar plug, cut the first end wire (Black or White) 2 ~ 3" (5 ~ 8 cm); cut the middle wire (Slate Grey) another inch (~25 mm) away; and the other end wire another inch away from the middle wire.
The object is to have steps. This means the soldering will be in a series and the wires will look more like sausage links than an anaconda that swallowed a goat.
2.
Cut the wires on the mirror to match so the longest wire from the mirror will go to the shortest wire on the plug. Note: Maintain the colour codes. White goes to White; Slate Grey goes to Slate Grey; Black goes to Black.
This means the overall length of each wire will be the same, regardless if it were cut near or far.
3.
Bare each of the six wires for 1/4" (~6mm). Don't twist the ends. You want the wire strands to be parallel and overall smooth.
4.
Tin the bared wire.
That means heat and apply just enough solder to hold the wire stands together. Each strand should be visible and distinct. When finished, the tinning should look just like the bared wire was simply painted silver.
5.
Slip the 1/4" heat shrink tubing onto the wire as far away from where you will be ding the soldering as possible.
Hold it back, all scrunched up like an accordion with a bit of tape if you have to.
6.
Slip each of the short tubes onto the wires as far away from where you will be soldering as possible. If the heat shrink gets hot from soldering or you try to slip it over the joint before the joint has cooled, the heat shrink will grab prematurely and you won't be able to cover the solder joint.
7.
Overlap the first wires, ensuring the tinned sections are in contact for as much of their length as possible. Do not twist the wires. That will make them too thick for the heat shrink tube to slide over. Instead, envision them like you've laid one index finger, pointed left, on top of the other index finger, pointed right.
8.
Solder the first pair of tinned wires together and when cool (wait at least 90 seconds), slip the heat shrink tube over, so the is centred inside.
This will give you an indication how good a job you did and, if required, allow you to unsolder and resolder the joint.
However, don't get carried away. You're not working on a Jarvik mechanical heart.
If everything is okay, slip the tube back out of the way until you're finished.
9.
Repeat the above step for the remaining two wires.
10.
Centre the heat shrink tubes over the joints and apply heat so they will contract, concealing all of the soldered wires.
Most people use a lighter for this and some very patient ones a hair dryer. If you have access to a heat gun, use that.
I helped put in a radio station once and we must have done 30 of these jobs. The 'special heat shrink heater tool' was over $300.00 (CND). A standard heat gun, used for everything from shrinking on clear polyethylene windows to 'canvas' aircraft covering works just fine. Use on LOW only and, again, don't go nuts. After the heat shrink stops contracting, stop heating.
11.
When cool (at least 3 minutes), slip the long length of heat shrink over wire, ensuring you have captures at lease 3/4" (~2 cm) of the existing wire sheath and heat as described above.

Testing:
1.
Open the overhead compartment and plug the mirror into the existing wiring socket.
2.
Turn on the ignition.
3.
Press the AUTO button at the bottom middle of the mirror. The green idiot light on the left should toggle on / off.
What looks like it should be another idiot light to the left of the AUTO switch is actually the rear light sensor that will cause the electrochromic mirror to dim.

If everything is good, so ahead and mount the mirror on the windscreen bracket (also called a 'boss', or 'lug').

If you've heard horror stories about broken windscreens -- and I've read some pretty savage descriptions how mounting / dismounting mirrors are done -- let me know and I'll post two safe methods I have used many times.

Thanks again to everyone who offered assistance.

Regards

Richard

 

:icon_banan a::icon_ban ana:,:icon_ banana::ico n_banana:

Back with you later as I just scored a 95 mirror for a 96

Excellent writeup that will be helpful to many

 

When I wrote:
The green idiot light on the left should toggle on / off.

Followed by:
What looks like it should be another idiot light to the left of the AUTO switch is actually the rear light sensor that will cause the electrochromic mirror to dim.

It would appear my mirror had two left sides. Doubtless, I was thinking of my feet.

The idiot light is on the right, as observed from the driver's position; the sensor is on the left.

 

Try score a mirror from a Citroën C4.

They are exactly the same, but have this blue tainted glass and the dim function is over the total length of the glass.

Really nice upgrade.

 

Thanks,

Here is some more info on the Acura to Jaguar mirror swap, including the wiring diagram:

https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/x...mirror-175709/


Wish your post had existed when I was trying to figure it out last year!

.

 

I’m about to replace mine with OEM (oh the $pain), suggestions on removal would be helpful, I have glass cover so not too bad if it cracks