Replacing upper chain tensioner
#1
02-02-2014, 04:27 PM
Replacing upper chain tensioner
Got my new updates upper chain tensioner with gasket coming the mail within the next few days and planning doing an oil change at the same time.
What I plan in doing is draining my oil through the drain plug then while engine is empty, replacing the tensioner. The service bulletin says the fuel system should be released of pressure beforehand. Do I do that before or after draining the oil?
Thanks for any tips!
What I plan in doing is draining my oil through the drain plug then while engine is empty, replacing the tensioner. The service bulletin says the fuel system should be released of pressure beforehand. Do I do that before or after draining the oil?
Thanks for any tips!
#2
02-02-2014, 04:53 PM
Veteran Member
#3
02-02-2014, 06:51 PM
The reason Jaguar recommends no fuel pressure is so that the engine WILL NOT START when you crank the engine to release the tensioner piston.
Here is an excerpt from the TSB 3.1-09
"8. Use the starter to turn the engine - the movement of the chain against the
tensioner blade and piston will release the mechanical tensioner."
After the piston is released then you can install the relay and start the engine.
bob gauff
Here is an excerpt from the TSB 3.1-09
"8. Use the starter to turn the engine - the movement of the chain against the
tensioner blade and piston will release the mechanical tensioner."
After the piston is released then you can install the relay and start the engine.
bob gauff
#5
02-02-2014, 10:29 PM
The reason Jaguar recommends no fuel pressure is so that the engine WILL NOT START when you crank the engine to release the tensioner piston.
Here is an excerpt from the TSB 3.1-09
"8. Use the starter to turn the engine - the movement of the chain against the
tensioner blade and piston will release the mechanical tensioner."
After the piston is released then you can install the relay and start the engine.
bob gauff
Here is an excerpt from the TSB 3.1-09
"8. Use the starter to turn the engine - the movement of the chain against the
tensioner blade and piston will release the mechanical tensioner."
After the piston is released then you can install the relay and start the engine.
bob gauff
So once I start to crank the engine with no fuel pressure, I just crank until it doesn't start then I should be able to pull the tensioner right out? Do I pull the tensioner out before or after draining the oil? (I'm assuming I depressurize the fuel system first before draining oil?)
Amazon has the tensioner and gasket for a total of $120 after tax and free shipping
Autopartswarehouse.com has both for $110 after tax and free shipping
I purchased mine from autopartsway.com for $105 after tax and free shipping.
All 3 list vendors the same OES Genuine part.
#6
02-02-2014, 10:57 PM
I'll tell you exactly how I did it last summer.
1) Remove fuel pump relay.
2) Unscrew nut connecting fuel line to fuel rail (years ago a bent piston on the schrader valve had me thinking a fuel system on another vehicle was depressurised when it wasn't since then I leave nothing to chance and unscrew that nut)
3) Remove cam cover since I had no way of knowing if the piston would dislodge from the tensioner as I removed it. This way I could peer down at gently remove the tensioner and see the piston coming out with it. Would be a nightmare if that piston popped out and dropped in the channel.
4) Remove the 2 bolts from the tensioner and slowly pull it out.
5) Install new tensioner & bolts.
6) Install cam cover
7) Tighten nut on fuel rail
8) Crank Engine
9) Install fuel pump relay
10) Start engine
Then you can go about your oil change. It's easier to spot leaks with old dirty oil than new oil.
1) Remove fuel pump relay.
2) Unscrew nut connecting fuel line to fuel rail (years ago a bent piston on the schrader valve had me thinking a fuel system on another vehicle was depressurised when it wasn't since then I leave nothing to chance and unscrew that nut)
3) Remove cam cover since I had no way of knowing if the piston would dislodge from the tensioner as I removed it. This way I could peer down at gently remove the tensioner and see the piston coming out with it. Would be a nightmare if that piston popped out and dropped in the channel.
4) Remove the 2 bolts from the tensioner and slowly pull it out.
5) Install new tensioner & bolts.
6) Install cam cover
7) Tighten nut on fuel rail
8) Crank Engine
9) Install fuel pump relay
10) Start engine
Then you can go about your oil change. It's easier to spot leaks with old dirty oil than new oil.
#7
02-05-2014, 11:39 AM
I'll tell you exactly how I did it last summer. 1) Remove fuel pump relay. 2) Unscrew nut connecting fuel line to fuel rail (years ago a bent piston on the schrader valve had me thinking a fuel system on another vehicle was depressurised when it wasn't since then I leave nothing to chance and unscrew that nut) 3) Remove cam cover since I had no way of knowing if the piston would dislodge from the tensioner as I removed it. This way I could peer down at gently remove the tensioner and see the piston coming out with it. Would be a nightmare if that piston popped out and dropped in the channel. 4) Remove the 2 bolts from the tensioner and slowly pull it out. 5) Install new tensioner & bolts. 6) Install cam cover 7) Tighten nut on fuel rail 8) Crank Engine 9) Install fuel pump relay 10) Start engine Then you can go about your oil change. It's easier to spot leaks with old dirty oil than new oil.
I did but lost the positioning so has to go through the trouble of finding TDC since without the sensor plugged plugged in it would take 3 seconds of cranking for the car to start and wouldn't start at all with the sensor plugged in. Luckily I was about to find TDC without having to remove the cam cover by looking at the position of cam #4 in relation to the missing tooth on the crank gear and just matched up the dimple in the window of the cam position sensor.
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