200K miles, the car sat for 3 years, I have it one month. I have no history of past maintenance or repairs, except rebuilt power brake booster and new fuel injectors before it’s longish nap. I replaced the alternator, battery, thermostat, changed motor oil. Runs well, I think I still need the auxiliary cabin heater rebuilt; the cabin still does not blow very hot.

Now the smog inspection test is all important. My mechanic ran the test twice and showed “not ready”.
Told me to drive it more each time. I put 100 miles on it, still not ready. The car did not have a thermostat, so I put one in.

I then Warmed up the car to “N” temp on the dash gage. Drove it about 10 miles. Plugged in my blue driver Brand OBD reader. Mostly the SMOG test says the car is not ready. It briefly flashes “ready” for a second, but not in any discernible pattern.

Eventually I have to let my mechanic troubleshoot the problem. In the past year Pennsylvania 🇺🇸 changed the inspection requirements. They only do the Smog Test. My car has no engine lights showing and no trouble codes in the scan.

my questions:

Is there something I can do before I give up and let the mechanic look at it?

Can it be determined from the data that the components are installed?

do I need to “wake up/clean the sensors, and/or Cat? Is this even possible?

As always, thank you for all the past advice. If I can pass Smog test, I think all I have left is front brake pads, front shocks, cabin heat, and then wait for a warm spell for working on security system, dashboard lights, trunk release button, interior lighting, electric rear view dimmer switch, cruise control, adjust low beams, fix electric mirror adjustment motor, you know, stuff like that. Then off to Palm Springs!




I don’t understand

Is this encouraging or nah?

 

Trying to get a clearer pict

 

So I could not get a “ready” light for the SMOG test. Latest thing I did was:
Disconnected both battery terminals and connected the two battery cables with a jumper wire to reset the computer.
30 minutes later, reconnected the battery. And went for a 20 mile drive at 50 mph. No codes. A few hours later went out for cigars, 15 miles later, my engine light came on: Progress!
I noticed that now, when I step on the brake in PARK, I hear a clicking sound in the center console.
Ran the SCAN with my Blue Driver and got no codes, so that was weird. Ran the SMOG test and of course, got “X’s” because I have an engine light warning. But no code.
Brought the car to my mechanic, he ran his scan, and said come back next week, he has to pull out his other scanner for ‘96 cars.
So until next week.

 

There may be some incompatibilities with the Titanium O2 sensors used on the X300

They operate differently in they varie a resistance to the O2 content of a reference signal from the ECU

This can be seen on page 80 of the Jaguar 801s Doc below

Before the ECU will go into closed loop the coolant has to reach 88 C

The sensor for the instrument cluster is the single wire on the thermstat housing

The ECU use the 2 wire sensor next to it

It can be calibrated against the chart on page 78

www.jagrepair.com/images/Training Guides/801S - 2000.pdf

There is a couple of TSB on the smog pump which only runs for the first 60 seconds

05.1-27 Amended (jagrepair.com)

and

05.1-30 (jagrepair.com)

I'm not saying the smog pump is your target but some information to ponder

There is a diode in the smog pump wire harness

There is a solinoid inside the smog pump

There is a relay involved

And once I found one that ingested water and seized up

 

I have never heard that thing whirr, so that should be easy to check. I will read those references now.
tom

 

He works on all makes, and it is remarkable that he is willing to let the testing take its time. That’s not how most guys work. So the more info I can provide, the better the chance I can get to the heart of the problem without playing “let’s change this part next”. My role is extremely limited and I enjoy it with the help of all of you.

This website and participants are a unique group which is making my journey most pleasant!

 

On the smog pump place your finger on the specific relay and feel for click

If it does click by feel swap it anyway with one of the same part # like a headlight

The relay socket / holder pushes straight down to remove from the clip , flip upside down and spray some penetrating oil in the seam to free up the water sealing O - ring

You can jumper socket 3 ( power ) to 5







Inspect the wire harness near the smog pump for melted harness , seen once by me

You can run the smog pump with a battery charger with the positive lead on the White / Black wire and not the solid Black ground ( negative-) wire

There is an external check valve that may not show as a not ready message but more in the final exhaust results , on the normally aspirated engine the check valve will be on the left side

See page 92 in the 801s Doc

The EGR vavle has a position sensor and the closed value on the Red / Pink wire is 0.7 volts dc at idle ( closed at idle). connector remains installed

I knew I guy once with a dyno meter test run that kept a notebook on what the true sensor values were vs. what the book stated from GM and Ford , he was golden in resolving a GM issue I had

There are 2 different EVAP systems during X300 production one with the single square vapor canister with a Rochestor valve

And the 2 canister version that does not have a Rochestor valve

This can be seen on page X

Put this pic on a flash drive as a JPEG image to the office supply store to make a large print so your mechanic can explain a battle plan

 

Thank you so much! I’ll print these out for my next trip to the Oasis of Knowledge, aka Bud’s Auto!
All the Best,
tom

 

Thank you for all encouragement and advice.


After reset of ECU, mechanic finally got his reader to detect a bad downstream O2 sensor. Replaced the sensor and running a short trip got “all ready” for Smog except catalyst.

mechanic said it would now pass and it did! Said the two sensors are at different rates now, and ECU somehow (I didn’t understand the explanation exactly) decides to put the info somewhere and moves on. He said the catalyst would eventually come around, but might take weeks. Just happy Dave understands it. There is a lot more I need to learn, but in this case, resetting the computer by draining all electrical components was important, and next time I’m not going to drive endlessly to reset anything. Tom