My Jag continues to behave oddly...

I finished my big brake swap, but on the test drive I realized I was dripping coolant, from deep within the engine bay. So for the past 3~4 months I've been replacing the octopus hose. The car was off that whole time, the battery died, etc. I bought a fresh battery and tried to start the car. It cranks strong, all the correct noises occur like the shifter solenoid and the fuel pumps whirring. The car will try to turn over but then sputter and die. If I prime the pump 4~5 times I can get a bit more out of it, but it wont run. I checked the fuel rail and it was dry. I checked the fuse, the relay, and just replaced both pumps, no dice.

 

G'day SC,

If you can hear your fuel pump running and the fuel rail is dry and there are no obvious fuel leaks under the car then that points to a fuel line coming adrift or being blocked in the fuel tank.
Cheers,
Jeff.

 

In the begaining as you rotate the key the # 1 fuel pump will run for 3 seconds only then off

The # 1 will come back on when it sees engine rotation by the CKPS

Do you get 3 clicks of the # 1 fuel pump relay with you finger on it ? On - Off - On , there is a secret fuel pump relay " control " fuse and this fuse in the rear seat area must have the " king " relay in the corner of the fuse box close to power fuse ( relay swapping option )

In between the fuel rail is charged with 43 PSI and gets consumed and hopefully the CKPS will pic it up

The injector timing and ignition is by the CMPS / camshaft in the initial cranking so may get a few combustions until fuel rail charge gets too low

The CKPS can fail in the many ways the single wire signal is used like fuel pump enable , tach , fuel and Ign timing and still not give a CEL code P0335

Do you show 300 RPM on starter rotation ?

You can see starter rotation RPM but still lose the fuel pump enable aspect

You can clean the face of the CKPS sensor of grime different than connector clean

Ineria / Crash Switch can be fickle from reading others / kills fuel pump and engine , deos not always reset and can jumper the 2 white wires with a paper clip

Pic coming

 

Internet super thottled back , past due bill

Can some give him the inertia switch pic ?

 

his is the picture of the inertia switch that Parker is talking about.
It is shown in a right hand drive car.

 

Thanks V126man , The inertia switch will always be on the car's far right regaurdless if left or right steering model foward of the right hand door hinge under a up against the foot wall

This pic originated from another contributer and I snagged it but pics and files imposable to upload at this time

You can jumper the fuel pump relay between sockets 3 and 5 which will be the larger 2 socket on the aft edge of the relay to the fwd edge , this will keep the pump on with the keys in your pocket , you can do this also for the # 2 pump incase the the # 1 pump is bad as new out of the box

 

The secret fuel pump relay " control " fuse is # 10 / 5 amp right heelboard fuse box , the relay in the corner of that fuse box must close to power fuse so you can swap with left engine bay fuse box small relay in corner ( left only runs car horns )

There have been cases where the check valve in each new ( off brands ) pump fail to trap the fuel charge therfore a few combustions but fail to carry through to the time the CKPS turns pumps back on , either pump check valve can let the fuel charge drain down unfortunatly

To test rotate key to run but do not start , crack fuel rail after a hour and the fuel charge must still be there

On fuel pump change recommend fuel pump relay change with new and inspect the connector on the fuel pump moter for burnt sockets , damages the contacts as a pump fails in it's final days

 

Another possibility is a clogged fuel filter.

Cheers,
Jeff.

 

Tried the inertia switch first because its super easy, no dice. Went to check the CKPS and it was loose. I don't remember WHY it was loose, but that did it. Car cranked a few times to refill the fuel rail, and it ran fine for 10 minutes.

I can definitely tell the difference between what Parker 7 described and refilling the rail properly. It really does just try a little bit and then give up, versus keeping at it until the engine goes.

Now I have 2 brand new Denso pumps I guess haha. I'm gonna save the old ones just in case.