I have taken my head unit from my 95 XJR , into an electronic workshop to have it repaired , the tech has asked me for a connector pinout diagram or legend and I have searched for hours including our forum, with no luck , If any one has this information I would be most grateful , I have this morbid fear that they may blow it up ! . I really would like to keep the original radio even though I have seen some nice jobs with after market units .

 

Some information that may help:

JAGUAR Car Radio Stereo Audio Wiring Diagram Autoradio connector wire installation schematic schema esquema de conexiones stecker konektor connecteur cable shema

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You can download the electrical guide here: http://www.jagrepair.com/images/Auto.../jagxj1995.pdf

Look at either figure 18.1 or 18.2 depending on if you have the premium sound or not.

 

Thanks Guys ,
AL .... I will send your link to the tech , should be helpful .

jagbois.....I have sent the schematic to the tech last week but on looking at the download link you kindly sent I noticed what appears to be pin numbers , when I looked last week the pin numbers where very blurry on the pc but I think I can now work it out. On top of that the electrical download is going to be very useful in the future as I always do my own repairs / servicing....John

 

Ding

 

Thanks Lady Penelope , that was exactly what I was looking for to start with but with the help of the other 2 members ( above ) and the schematic sent to me , although it did not show all pins , I was able to work out the rest with a DVM and some guess work which would make no difference to my tech . It was still good to double check my findings with your diagram , which turned out to be the same . I believe that terminal 3 is the light dimmer , don't know what 4 is for except that it shows 12v+ and goes to almost zero when the lights are turned on !! Thanks again

 

Glad that helps for you and others looking up the information for I myself have picked up alot from this forums posters . ( for other viewers ) The same AJ9500A is used in the " Premium " option with in the trunk ( boot ) CD changer and separate amplifier but the speaker output wiring is a single digital serial wire so if others have that option the wiring is different . Lady Penelope is my cars name , I'm her Engineer . I had assumed pin 3 and 4 was for lights before posting . Later as I had the cover off they are marked on the circuit board as DIM and ILL . While you have the radio out of the dash you might as well modify the cassette wiring to be able to add a aux jack to use other devices like CD player , smartphones , ect. It's an easy modification . The aux jack has a better quality signal then any Bluetooth setup . I'll post pics and a description and tips I found out later if you want that . If your display number window is " ghosting " I came up with some information on it's repair by applying heat but I have not verified that as a valid solution . If you have any other questions let me know .

JOE

 

Would love to stay tuned with the possibility of adding an aux jack and advice on repairing the display window

 

Away for a couple days . I'll put together an information package including a cheap speaker repair of the original units for mine are rattling for the cone foam surrounds are destroyed

 

HI Joe , I would be very interested in the aux jack for Bluetooth and also the repairs to speakers even though I have replaced the speakers but they are not what you would call top of the range , I have kept the original speakers . It was also good to know that the 9500 is the premium head unit .
I have just tried to improve the lcd clock with some success following instructions on this forum the radio lcd was ok , was !......John

 

If there is a rattle in the back it is often the subwoofer. There is a ring around the speaker cone and that comes loose. I took out the rear seat, lifted the parcel shelf trim panel and then glued the ring using plastic model cement from the hobby shop. That stopped the rattle.

 

If I'm thinking right ( not to berate the solution for it does work ) modeler's glue is not flexible like a more flexible say silicone glue which is important in a high vibration environment . Most glues become brittle and fail over time and you may have to revisit the repair . A softer silicone glue will give more service life and have more adhesion strength .
Its important to note that the control head for the Premium and Standard option may be the same but the control head speaker wiring output is not in that a digital plug next to the standard plug takes the before amplification small speaker signal back to the trunk for final power amplifier . After final amplification does the analog old school waveform show up to drive the speakers . In the Standard option the anolog waveform to drive the speakers are connected right out of the control unit . In order to get a dedicated Woofer with the Standard option you have to make a crossover network ( not hard to do ) . The factory woofer installation setup has the physics wrong in that the woofer chamber has all that petro in the way so my setup has a dedicated woofer box laying in the middle of the back seat that can be unpluged and plugged back in the trunk when needed . I took the Woofer wires over the top in the headliner / window trim plastic to get them to the back so as to have thicker woofer wires for better performance .

 

All I can say is the solution worked for 3 years before the car was written off!

 

Yep, the surround replacement kits for the factory 6x9 subwoofer use good old white (e.g. Elmers) glue.

The edge of the cone where the surround attaches doesn't/shouldn't flex (by design should be rigid), but white glue and even a thin amount of just about any glue will flex if necessary. So I don't think that is a critical consideration.

BTW, I've said it before and I'll say it again.... I'm old enough to have gone through the various phases of aftermarket stereo installations and big sound, but to be honest the OEM premium system sounds darned good and goes plenty (ear hurting) loud with most programs when operating properly. Tastes will vary of course, but even the "subwoofer" seems to work well. It won't rattle windows, but it seems to provide sufficient nice warm bottom end for me in most cases.

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