Just received a new in wrapper crossmember today . Any tool combination recommendations to get the center hardware out as this one is beyond me . I'll try to get real pic in the morning .

Thanks , Parker

 

Hi Parker,

Are you trying to remove the rear engine mount/transmission mount (part 5) from the crossmember? I assume you've removed the two screws (parts 7). I think the rubber is a tight friction fit in the crossmember, but you should be able to just carefully pry it out...?

I assume if you're replacing the crossmember you're also replacing the rubber mount?

If I'm completely misunderstanding I'll look forward to the photos.

Cheers,

Don

 

Thanks Don .

I didn't get a chance to look at it again today and take pics . A few months back when I last looked over carefully it seamed impossible to get any tools on the hardware up in there and would be great if it slipped out from the big rubber bushing . I'll have to weld some sort of cradle to reach around things in the way as a straight shot with a standard transmission jack platform doesn't seam possible to support the transmission at the propshaft maybe . Maybe it requires removing the front engine mounts and lowering the front of the engine down after removing this aft mount outer bolts to the frame to allow more room up in the middle attach points in the red circle . If so it's not a big obstacle to make a over the top engine hoist to drop it down .

Thanks for the heads up on the rubber components that may as well be replaced while there although if I think now they should have little effect based on their on condition inspection ( unless cracked and unattached ) on the drive line twerking around feel compared to the other suspension ride rubber components

The exhaust pipe is out of the way but may have to cut off the mid cats ( or silencers ) for more room which is no big deal .

A pic would help to see it better then a verbal description but I couldn't find one .

I see one previous thread on the mater as I was searching by pics only earlier .

https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/x...umping-151569/.....V12 and S/C AJ16 different

Thanks , Parker

I may have to bail and postpone this until after the inspection to get it back on the road shorter as that is important . only one web is cracked . But it's while I'm there with the exhaust reassembly might get it done now as I found and received a new rear mount crossmember bracket a few days ago .

 

Here are some pictures taken when my mechanic replaced the rear engine mount a while ago. Seems quite straight-forward. The opportunity was taken to replace the propeller shaft bearing as well. All these were part of an attempt to replace a cheap O-ring in the oil plug that has been worn out and causing oil leak that could only be reached by removing the manual gearbox..... Very labour intensive work.

 

Thanks ,

I see you have some flat steal plate to protect the transmission pan from too much pinpointed pressure damage as I saw that being a problem on mine with stuff in the way from a straight up transmission jack . Looks very much like mine as you have the manual transmission and I received the part # for the NA automatic being MNA 7600 CB . Will have to jack the car to reorient my brain on the hardware . I see the post ( # 6 adapter pin ) on the transmission that sits in the cradle forward rubber bushing that stays and the rear donut bushing ( # 8 mounting bushing ) that also stays with the crossmember casting as you remove it . I also see the 2 bushings are still available if I replace them . Looks easier to do now .

Thanks for the pics , Parker

 

The rear left mounted # 8 rear bushing is unattached to the car tunnel with no real attach points if there was one that the bushing cups into . Makes since that there would be one which may be why mine was cracked . With your pics the original should just pop off as the 4 corner to frame bolts checked and are not frozen . Not placed transmission jack in place yet . I see you have 4 post bolts sticking our of the tunnel heat shield as the 4 corner bolt attach to the frame like closed channel outside of the exhaust line .

 

Just checked and have the same 4 points on the tunnel heat shield but are bolt heads and not threaded studs . I can get some flat boiler plate and pick up the studs with a cup welded on to the fwd edge to tie into this bushing . Will need to vent so not to have too mush heat at the stop signs . Wouldn't make since to replace with the new crossmember and break it also before resolving . Haven't been able to find a X300 in the junkyard yet to compare . I know of one driving around that I can catch and place my hand under there without jacking .

 

@LadyP
"The rear left mounted # 8 rear bushing is unattached to the car tunnel with no real attach points

Yes it's weird but that's how it is. I've no idea what that rubber thing is for but it's not a bush, and it doesn't attach to anything.

(maybe anti vibration, or a bump stop, or a legacy from another model or ????)

 

Thank B1mcp ,

I think I will add a cup and a boiler plate frame attached to the aft 4 studs in Qvhk's as it wouldn't hurt . Qvhk's pic looks like it's greased as it came out of a receptical bushing cup . Engineering to manufacturing miss ? Thought before about a harmonic vibration damper but it wouldn't be made of rubber , As a bump stop as the crossmember broke away and torqued makes sense , other transmission on the V12 or supercharged AJ16 are very different crossmembers .

Thanks again , Parker

 

Yes, my mechanic told me that the huge rubber ring is for anti-vibration. It makes sense as it is adjacent to the rear engine (transmission) mount.