Hello,

Does anyone happen to know how to approach Transmission Oil Cooler Line replacement in an XJ12 or XJR (Both have GM 4L80E transmission)?

The rubber portion of the cooler line that enters the came in contact with the alternator pulley, and put a nice gash in it.

As a temporary fix, I applied some sealant to the gash, let it cure, and wrapped the rubber hose tightly with that self-sticking stretchy Silicone magic tape, then zip tied it tightly all down the hose. Now I only get a drop or two from the hose each day instead of a pint.

I ordered the new line (~$130) but access to the fittings on the transmission end seems impossible without removing the transmission. The rear fitting is way up on the RH side of the transmission, in the tunnel.

Because the only portion that's bad is the rubber hose, if it means I have to remove the transmission/engine for replacement, I was thinking about the possibility of cutting out the bad section of line & hose, leaving the existing rear hard-to-access portion of the metal line, and coupling the new section to it, perhaps with a piece of high-pressure oil-rated hose and clamps.

Any ideas?

Thanks,
Nick

 

Well, I think I found my answer. According to ALLDATA in the steps to remove the transmission from the car:

1. Disconnect battery ground.
2. Remove air cleaner assembly.
3. Raise vehicle, then drain fluid.
4. Remove shift linkage.
5. Remove propeller shaft.
6. Remove any component needed for clearance. (Love this one!)
7. Support the transmission with a transmission jack.
8. Slowly lower transmission to reach and remove the following components:
a. Dipstick tube, seal and cooler lines.
b. Disconnect electrical connectors.

-Nick

 

I've never taken notice on my own car.....

Could you simply remove the trans mount and let the engine and trans tilts down a bit? Would that give you enough room?

Cheers
DD

 

Nick, I successfully repaired a tubing section of the A/C condenser on my Xj40 using a product called "Laco heatstik" followed up with a sleeve of JBweld. The Laco product is a heat activated epoxy that works something like sealing wax, you simply clean the bejeezus out of the area, heat up the area and puddle on the epoxy stick until the hole is sealed - I believe it will bridge gaps up to 1/8" or so.

The stuff cures in one minute but is very brittle, so after doing the initial sealing, I sanded back about an inch each side of the repair and built up a sleeve of JBweld over the whole area. Allowed it to cure for 24 hours and 2 years later the repair is still holding.

good luck

Larry

edit - just realized you are repairing a rubber hose - forget what I said!