Sorry for what must be a lingering subject, but the forum search removes what it sees as common words and the Gentlemen (No) Start Your Engines thread does not have the incidents labeled for speed reading.

My car is stuck in parking lot with a good-battery / no-crank scenario.

From what I have gleaned:

When you have a good battery, turn the key and no cranking occurs,
- Check (crash) Inertia Switch (also accompanied by no radio, or lights)
- Check the Shifter and confirm the "P" is lit and red -- Mine is not -- ( how can I check or repair or temporarily jumper the connection? )
I do hear the click when pressing brake and I am able to shift through gears - tried starting in neutral - same silence.
- Check the relay front left engine bay (second from right on the set that's closest to Air Box)
- Check the fuse (listed on the fuse chart on engine bay tool box cover)
- BPM Body Processor Module

But I also came across something about the Security Locking Module and thought I would ask about that --
This is a USA version 1995 NA XJ6

Recently I noticed that if a door was ajar, when I press the lock button on the remote, nothing happens.

I had previously (incorrectly?) thought that if a door was ajar -OR- the trunk was open, it would lock (one chirp) and then complain (two beeps).

But now on mine the two beeps (after locking) only occurs if all four doors are closed and the trunk is open.

I thought I was just remembering it wrong, but otherwise, could the security module be going bad -AND- causing the no-crank condition?

Thanks in advance for any other suggestions.

Also BTW - as I am restoring, etc. I have the ski slope off and the shifter is exposed for viewing, but not sure what is what in there. The only recent work I have done was on the intake boot/bellows and fuel pressure regulator so I don't think I have knocked something loose in electrically.

 

The connector above the fuel tank attached to the underside of the rear hat shelf could have migrated open as this will kill the starter enable . You can do a Jaguar " Hard Reset " of the Security ECU by removing the radio connectors first then turning the key to on , removing both battery terminals and touching them together for a few minutes then reinstalling on battery . Engine may be rough until it's ECU relearns the perimeters . You can put a paper clip in the inertia switch connecting the 2 white wires to bypass as that fails to reset .

https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/x...dition-190492/



I'll get you a pic of the shift interlock relays later

 

I read an old post somewhere explaining the situation you described that something might have confused the car that she was already locked or unlocked. A hard re-set might restore order.

 

Thank you guys.

It was fuse 14 left rear floor area. I should have known.
It is labelled gear box/ign supply.
Just before parking that day I noticed the sport light went out and
It kept starting off in third gear.

So my next question- asked though trembling fingers -- why did the
Fuse blow?

Oh well I'm happy now.

But i would like to work on a no start cheat sheet if for no other reason
then to be sure I don't forget something that could save frustration.

 

Sorry to hijack this thread but something similar has happened to me.

Basics. Car running well. Pulled up to some road works. Turned ignition off. Couple of mins later I turned ignition on. The car will not crank.

Tried swapping over Starter Relay, the one near the front of the car. No joy.
Everything works. Lights etc.
The car locks.
The car will not crank in either Park or Neutral.
The lights on the J gate light as I go through the gears.
Battery is in excellent condition. Is fully charged. Still tried it with a battery booster.
Tried spare key and Fob.
When I try starting all you hear are a couple of loud clicks.

So it just will not crank. Ideas?

 

If you pull the spark plugs out can you turn the engine over with leather gloves by hand or a 34mm socket on the crankshaft ?

 

If you're hearing loud clicks when trying to start that is likely to be the starter solenoid - try to verify that by listening carefully in the area of the starter while someone else turns the key.

If it is the solenoid clicking we can conclude that all the required parameters for start are being satisfied. Next step is to verify power and ground at the starter. B+ voltage on the solenoid supply, and clean sound engine ground lead connections (The engine ground lead is down near the starter).

If these check out OK then I would call the Starter Motor (assuming the engine isn't seized which is where Lady P is going I think).

 

b1mcp is right, clicking when you turn the key is a likely indicator of a problem at the starter, and in a way is good news as it eliminates the various circuits and controls any of which could inhibit starting.
A clicking solenoid is a relatively "old school" type of problem, and likely confined to the vicinity of the starter.

 

Sorted. I had the subframe dropped a few weeks ago for some major body work repairs, rust. The earthing cable was starting to look a bit grotty so I asked them to put a new one on. Dont ask me why but 4 weeks later it was not earthing. They took it off. Angle ground the cable and engine connection, even cleaned out the thread for the bolt. Put it back together........ Magic!

This is a photo of the cable before they worked on it again for this fault. Looks ok. On nice and tight.

 

Always great when someone follows-up with the solution. So now it looks like both the OP and the "thread hacker" (Frank's own term, not mine) have resolved the issues raised herein.