I started to remove the coil pack from the second spark plug. As I lifted it out, there was a lot of oil in the plug well.

Has the oil just been seeping past the gasket surrounding the spark plug well and filling up that cavity?

How has it kept from fouling the plug?

Is it because the coil pack has a rubber sleeve that fits over the top of the plug and the tip of the plug is screwed into the combustion chamber, not allowing the oil to pass through?

How do I remove the oil in the wells without it getting down into the plug well?

My thoughts were to drain the engine of oil, since I am in need of an oil change anyway. Then start on the cam cover gasket replacement.

But the plug holes are filled with oil.

Help me please

 

If the plug is well seated, the crush washer may not allow any oil to seep onto the threads of the plug (which can lead to weak spark and misfires due to interruption of the ground path through the engine).

There are a few ways to remove the oil from the spark plug wells.

A Mityvac vacuum pump of the type used for bleeding brakes works well.

A similar method is to remove the trigger spray nozzle from a bottle of Windex glass cleaner or similar product. Insert the long intake tube down into the spark plug well, hold a doubled-over paper towel over the spray nozzle, and squeeze the trigger repeatedly until nearly all of the oil has been sucked out of the plug well and sprayed onto the paper towel.




A syringe with a length of vinyl or rubber tubing can work. I have some similar to the one in the photo below that are very handy in the shop:



If you don't have one of the above, you can wrap a corner of a paper towel around the tip of a long flat-bladed screwdriver, and while holding the opposite corner of the paper towel, insert the screwdriver down the plug well and into the puddle of oil. Allow the paper towel to wick up as much oil as it can, then pull it out by the corner you're holding onto and throw it away. Repeat with clean towels until nearly all of the oil has been wicked out.

When nearly all of the oil has been removed, you can remove the spark plugs and use the paper towel and screwdriver method to clean any residual oil from the wells. I usually finish each plug well with a spritz of carb cleaner, brake cleaner, electronic cleaner, etc., whichever is closest to hand. The solvent will help wash any remaining oil film into the cylinder where it will be quickly burned away when the engine is started.

Cheers,

Don

 

I've only checked with SNG Barratt so far. The cam cover seal is $61.15 for original and $17.81 for aftermarket. Is is best to spend the extra for original?

Regarding the screw seals you mentioned to get on Rock Auto, do the other vendors not carry them?

 

I haven't had any problem with the aftermarket gaskets from SNG Barratt.

I recommended Rock Auto for the screw seals because their price is about half that of other vendors, and when you need more than a dozen, the savings add up quickly.

Cheers,

Don

 

I noticed a big price difference between vendors.
Here is what I found, for anyone else needing to do the job.
This is only for the cam cover bolt seal, NBC 2575CA
SNG Barratt $5.52 each!
Jagbits $7.65 each!!!
Welsh Enterprises $1.95 each
Rock Auto $1.29 each

 

Permatex Ultra Black seems to be used in place of a gasket, at least it looks that way on their website. Maybe I'm looking at the wrong product.

 

Regarding the ignition coil packs. Is it better to get the OEM gasket for the coil or has everyone found the aftermarket gasket (LHF1719AA) to be okay?

 

The coil seals just help keep dust and such out of the spark plug wells and may also prevent rattling of the coils. They don't have to seal against oil, so the aftermarket ones are fine, and your old ones may be fine as they are.

 

Permatex Ultra Black can be used in lieu of some types of gaskets, but it is also used to supplement molded rubber gaskets in circumstances specified by manufacturers, such as on those half-moon plugs that seal the cutouts left when the bearing surfaces for the camshaft journals are machined in the factory. On other engines, an RTV sealant like Permatex Ultra Black is used to supplement a molded gasket where it crosses the joint where the timing cover meets the cylinder head, for example.

One product I'm not a fan of for the half-moon plugs is Permatex Right Stuff, which sets up very quickly, possibly not allowing enough open work time to get the camshaft cover properly seated before the sealant is already skinning over.

Cheers,

Don

 

When my alternator went out recently, it also made a terrible vibration in the FUEL RAIL. It wasn't as noisy as yours, but was very much the problem.
I found the need to remove the radiator fan shroud (be sure to place a piece of plywood or such in front of it to protect the radiator from collateral damage), and work the job from both above and below. It was pretty easy all said and done.

 

Okay. I removed the cam cover. I made a video showing you the condition of everything. If you need to see something that I haven't shown in the video, please let me know. I figured that I would install the new spark plugs once I finish the cam cover gaskets. Regarding the spark plug seals on the cam cover. Do you seat them in the underside of the cam cover, along with the cover gasket, and then put that on the head? Using Permatex black RTV on both sides of the gaskets?

 

Hi Todd,

You don't need silicone on the entire gasket - it's designed to be installed "dry," but judicious use of RTV can be helpful. Others may offer other suggestions, but since this is your first cam cover gasket on your Jag, I'll offer my "foolproof" method:

1. Degrease the gasket mating surfaces on the cylinder head as thoroughly as you can. I use whatever solvent is closest to hand: naptha, acetone, brake cleaner spray, etc. I tear paper towel sheets into fourths, fold a fourth section into a small pad and dampen it with solvent. Clean a small section of gasket mating surface. Toss that pad in the trash, dampen a new pad and repeat these steps till all the gasket surfaces are clean. Now wipe them with clean, dry paper towel pads until you're sure everything is spotless.

2. Use paper towel pads and solvent as above, along with Q-tips/cotton buds to clean the gasket groove and plug seal surfaces on the camshaft cover.

3. Allow all traces of solvent to evaporate (using compressed air can blow oil from uncleaned surfaces up onto your clean surfaces).

4. Clean a flat, smooth surface large enough to accommodate the camshaft cover. The surface should have at least one accessible corner.

5. On a different surface, lay the cam cover upside down and apply a small "dot" of RTV sealant at one corner of the gasket groove. Apply dots in the groove about every 4 to 6 inches apart and at each corner. Hold the gasket above the cam cover to confirm it is in the correct orientation. Staring at one corner, carefully seat the gasket in the cam cover groove, then seat the gasket in the other corner at that end and press the gasket down between those corners. Then work the gasket down the length of the grooves on each side of the cover and finally at the opposite end.

5. Apply three or four dots on each spark plug tube seal and install them on the cover.

6. Carefully turn the cover over and place it on your clean, flat surface, positioning the end with the two half-moon protrusions to straddle the corner of your surface so there is no pressure on the half-moons, only on the gasket in the groove between them. Allow to sit for 30 minutes or so for the sealant to set up.

7. Just before you install the cam cover, double check the cleanliness of the cylinder head and address any issues.

8. Add a 1/4 inch wide bead of RTV sealant either on the round edges of the gasket half-moons and extending about 1/2 inch on either side of each half-moon, or apply the bead in the half-round recesses at the rear end of the cylinder head. Applying the sealant to the cylinder head is more awkward, but it makes it a little easier to install the cam cover without smearing the sealant. Do not apply sealant to any other portion of the gasket. Carefully install the cover on the cylinder head and confirm the half-moons are properly seated and the outer gasket has not come out of the groove anywhere.

9. Install the screws with new rubber seals and torque in several passes to the Workshop Manual spec, which is 4 - 5 Nm (35 - 44 in. lb.). Start with the screws in the middle of the cover and work outward in a spiral, alternating sides and working toward the outer ends.

Cheers,

Don

 

Thanks Don, I really appreciate your help. I have the technical sheet showing the torque specs and the order of tightening. How did the surfaces and cam cover look to you?

 

They look great in the video! You did a great job of cleaning them. I'm always overly cautious and wipe them one more time with dry paper towels just before I install the cover with the new gaskets. If I discover that any oil has drained onto the lower edge of the cylinder head gasket surface, I clean it with solvent again.

I forgot to mention earlier that given the appearance of the varnish and gunk that has accumulated on surfaces around the cams and inside the cam cover, you might want to consider adding a couple of bottles of Rislone oil treatment might be prudent at your next oil change. My old favorite oil detergent was CD2, but it has been discontinued. Rislone makes an oil additive that claims to quiet noisy lifters, which means it contains a detergent to break down deposits inside your engine, so adding a couple of bottles at your next oil change may help reduce some of the gunk.

If any other members know of a better substitute for CD2, I'd love to know about it (I know all about BG MOA but as far as I have been able to determine it does not contain a detergent).

Let us know how it goes!

Cheers,

Don

 

Thanks again Don!
Should I wait a bit, after placing the gaskets on the cover with RTV, to allow the sealant to set up a little?

 

Yes, sorry, meant to mention that. I edited my previous post to add that tidbit. Let it sit on the flat surface for about 30 minutes or so for the sealant to set up.

 

After I get it all put back together, should I let it sit for any time before starting it? Or is the RTV just for holding the gaskets in place while installing the cover, so I don't need to wait for 24 hours like the package says.

 

Don, I found CD2 on Amazon.

 

The RTV on the rear half-moons helps fill in any potential gaps, so it's a good idea to let the sealant cure overnight or at least for several hours.

Thanks for the heads up on CD2! I just checked and the price is $12.99 per bottle, which is steep. I used to pay $4.99 at my local stores. But you inspired me to see if I can find a seller with liquidation stock at a better price. Thanks!

Cheers,

Don

 

You're welcome!
It's a small thing compared to all the help you've given me.