When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
My car is making a loud whining sound. I think it may be the alternator. I'm not sure though. I know that one of you Jaguar experts have probably experienced this before and will be able to advise me. I made a video of my car at startup, from cold. I appreciate any help you can give me.
The instrument cluster voltage gauges are not particularly reliable, but your noise could definitely be your alternator. There are a couple of quick ways to check. With an inexpensive mechanic's stethoscope or a long socket extension or similar substitute, you can listen to the alternator to see if the bearings are failing. The alternator is directly below the component that you focus on in your video, which is the secondary air injection pump (Part 13 in the diagram below). The alternator is at the lower right. If the sound from the alternator doesn't match your whine, check the secondary air injection pump, the water pump, and the A/C compressor (not shown in the diagram below but at the lower left when facing the front of your engine):
Another easy way to detect alternator failure is to visit a local auto parts store and ask them to check your battery and charging system. They can view the alternator output voltage under different load conditions and engine speeds, and if their analyzer is decent, they can also view AC ripple and check for a failed diode.
Thank you for your assistance! The water pump was replaced a couple of years ago.
I checked the original owner's records. He replaced the alternator in 2006. This is that alternator. 13 years old. I'll check the sound. I can't seem to find any threads that have the step by step remove/replace procedure for the alternator. I can figure it out, but I thought if someone else had documented it I could use their experience.
Are there any decent repair manuals? Bentley, Haynes, Clymer? I can't seem to find any.
While I'm in there, I hope to install one of the crank sensor brackets that everyone raves about. Also the coil packs and new Champion plugs.
Agreed that the alternator is suspect and agreed on Don's stethoscope advice.
Don mentioned the air injection pump. That's the higher-pitched 'zing' noise you hear, apart from the (suspected) alternator noise. It should disappear within a minute or two of start-up.
No help on step-by-step removal process. It's been too many years. But I don't recall anything particularly weird. Once you get under there for a good look the process should be self-evident. If you've replaced an alternator on any other car you can do it on this one
I used a stethoscope to listen. The alternator is making a loud noise (through the scope) and I get the same noise from the fuel rail cover. Referred sound? Ideas?
I used a stethoscope to listen. The alternator is making a loud noise (through the scope) and I get the same noise from the fuel rail cover. Referred sound? Ideas?
The sound could definitely be conducted from its source to other metal/rigid components that are in contact with one another. Have you had your alternator output tested?
I used a stethoscope to listen. The alternator is making a loud noise (through the scope) and I get the same noise from the fuel rail cover. Referred sound? Ideas?
Weird noise!
You might try removing the belts and spinning all the different pulleys. Any roughness is a possible noise-maker.
If the spin test reveals nothing, and lacking any other concrete clues, you sometimes just gotta pick a jumping-off point and dive in. The alternator is obviously suspect so that's where I'd begin. Alternators can make strange sounds due to bearing problems or because they are straining to do the job. or both.
Is there any step by step for remove/replace the alternator? I can figure it out, but if someone has been there before, it might speed things along. It's a bit harder to get to this alternator than the one I replaced on my wife's Avalon a couple of months ago.
BTW, who thought that it was a good idea to reduce the access to the engine bay by 33%? I don't like reverse opening hoods. You lose access to the front of the engine bay because the hood is in the way. Great idea.
I think we've established you have an X300, but it helps others give you the most accurate replies if you will edit your signature to include the year, model and engine of your Jag. This info will thereafter appear in all of your posts so others don't have to go searching through your thread to find these details.
Have you checked out the links I provided in post #7?
I'm on my tablet and it won't give me the option to edit my profile. I'll change it tomorrow.
I have a 1996 Vanden Plas. AJ16
I checked out everything except the jag lovers book. I'll check it tomorrow.
The other links don't have anything to help me with this repair, unless I missed something.
I didn't take the time to search JTIS but the parts diagram below is probably all you need.
Disconnect the battery negative cable and secure it away from the battery negative post.
Remove or disconnect and displace any components that obstruct your access to the alternator.
If you can access the electrical connectors on the back of the alternator, disconnect and displace them. If you can't access them now, you can do this later. I seem to recall that access to the rear face of the alternator is improved with the oil filter removed (working from underneath).
Loosen but do not remove nut 4/bolt 3, nut 11.and screw 14. Loosen the part 10 nut on the right, then wind the part 10 nut on the left down the adjuster bolt, part 9, toward its pivot eye. This will release the tension on the alternator belt and eventually you will be able to pull the belt off of the alternator pulley. Off the top of my head, I don't think it is necessary to remove the A/C compressor belt unless you are going to replace it. If so, it has its own adjuster.
Once the alternator belt is displaced, remove nut 4 and bolt 3 and screw 14, and if you were not able to access the wiring before, support the alternator now and turn it for access to the electrical wires that connect to the back face: Now you can withdraw the alternator from the vehicle.
If it ain't one thing it's another!!
I started removing the alternator using Don's instructions. (Thanks Don!)
The mounting bolt nut at the back of the alternator is not accessible from the top of the car. I had to wait until I could borrow a floor jack and jack stands from a friend.
So, I decided to replace the plugs. Pulled the coil pack from the front cylinder. Removed the spark plug. Socket was covered in oil! The tip of the spark plug was dry, but the upper body was wet with oil.
So, I guess now I have to remove the cam cover and replace the cam cover gasket and spark plug well gasket rings?
Where is the best place to get the gaskets?
What's the best sealant?
Is there a step-by-step tutorial for this?
Is this too many questions?
Are you sure?
This is fun.
Well, at least the cam cover gaskets are easy to replace. Take care when disconnecting and displacing the coil harnesses because the insulation on the wires becomes brittle with age and easily cracks, leading to shorts and misfires.
For the gaskets, try our forum sponsors SNG Barratt, Jagbits, Welsh Enterprises and Coventry West. For the little rubber seals for the screws, try Rock Auto. I think you need 13 but count yours to be sure.
To seal the half-moons at the rear of the cylinder head I use Permatex Ultra Black but any good RTV silicone sealant should be fine.
What is making this noise?
The tip of the spark plug was dry, but the upper body was wet with oil. 