So the BPM is providing a feeler voltage on the brake and not in park switch

It is ground seeking

When the switches close or active the ground path is satisfied

Taking a break to edit this statement if true,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,, So the not in park switch is a NC or normal closed switch , An Active position is when the lever is actuated, and the switch opens

 

I just bypassed the neutral switch and nothing , still have the 2 lights but it allowed me to remove the key and after reconnecting it still allows me to remove it,, when I activate the park switch there is something clicking under the dash

 

How do I do a hard reset on the BPM?

 

The clicking is the keylock relay ( frd of the shift lever ) and key lock solenoid

The hard reset is taking both battery cables off and touching them together , this works for a US model that does not have stereo head theft protection

The longer the cables are contacted the better like over night

Battery cables work as long as you cover the battery post from a adverse cable connection

This will reset the BPM and security lock control module to zero state as it is directly wired to the battery or in this case you are draining it to a electron well ( car frame )

 

ok yes I'm doing that right now, I zip tied them together about 5 minutes ago, since i have a function to go to I'll let it set over night

thanks for your help on this

 

You can give it a try after 5 minutes then see if overnight needed

Do not over tighten the positive post bolt , breaks the special nut in half underneath

 

Hard reset no help

 

Is that the original not in park switch ?

You proved it did change of state between open and closed

 

No the original had a broken lever

 

Do you still have the original with the raised letters NO or NC on it ?

The brake switch is actually 2 switches in 1 package , there was a change in part #

 

Referencing the above chart with the switch inactive or normal / extended / relaxed the Body Processor Module pin feeding the switch as a feeler voltage is B + and is not grounded out

So the switch should be a normal open

When the shift lever is in the park gate and lever depressed it will close and the feeler voltage feeding it will be grounded and close to 0

 

so recap on whats been done

wouldn't start & had coolant leak
key in run & start pos, had 6v & 12v respectively at the starter.
Changed starter fired right up, tested 5 or 6 times
Filled Radiator , started up let get warm the water gushed out of hose at firewall, ( water did pour over starter)
Fixed heater hose
won't start
Found no power at starter so discovered no power at #1 lug of starter relay, constant power at #3, jumped between #3 & #5 with key in run pos fired up so I replaced ignition switch now have power at #1 lug but still no crank,
Found leaf lever broken on in park switch
Replaced switch, can hear something under dash when activating switch
Jumpered wires at neutral switch, no start
Hard reset no help
Maybe next step should be find out what all the water leaked over ??

 

Editing

Remove the large terminal post on the right aft wheel well on the engine side near the rear firewall , this is your battery connection

This is the top line in the pic as after the engine starts the alternator feeds through as a tie point on the starter solenoid to the battery and the rest of the power distribution connections terminal posts

I'm sure you have the tie point nut tight on the solenoid but you never know if you were blindly on the lower 13 mm nut on the pigtail

There are 2 of the same large terminal post on the firewall itself gut were not looking at that ( yet )

Wiggle the terminal post on the wheel well after lifting the heavy cable off ( you have to lift the cable to get an accurate feel to discern if the post is loose making a bad connection on the other side of the sheet metal )

This will cover your 6 and 12 volt observations

You should have power present on the starter solenoid relay at socket 2 and 3 with the ignition switch in the run position before the start position

Power at the 2 socket only accurse if the ignition positive relay ( right engine bay fuse box relay ( is closed and can be swapped with the left engine bay fuse box relay ( actually only runs the horn )

 

I still have these 2 lights, I have the power at the relay on both circuits, car will fire right up when I jump the circuits

 

And I used a buddys Snap On scanner and no codes or faults are read

 

With the CEL you should be able to see a code , and depending on the reader some transmission codes starting with P and not T

 

Try to erase them and see it they return , I see the engine is running based on the voltage gauge

 

I may be on to something, "Transmission Rotary Switch" It inhibits starting, provides transmission warning light & prevents key from being removed if in gear,, It got doused twice with hot engine coolant

 

The rotary position switch can be opened up and cleaned by solvent and after dry an eraser ( just enough abrasion )

To remove the connector is quite involved so forget that , you would have to do the cleaning with the switch hanging

They have delicate contact fingers inside that can be resprung to make better contact

There is a o - ring around the seal that may have expanded and hard to get back in the groove

You can cut a bit out in the bottom portion leaving the joining gap at the bottom and some Vaseline to glue it in place

 

Thats going to be my next step,,,Whats behind the rubber plug?