Hello, Just come into possession of a 1996 XJ6, It has a no start condition, I had 6 & 12v at the starter in on & start positions replaced starter and it fired right up 4 times then would turn over, Found no power at starter so discovered no power at #1 lug of starter relay, constant power at #3, jumped between #3 & #5 with key in run pos fired up so I replaced ignition switch now have power at #1 lug but still no crank, Diagram shows power goes thru P/N switch before relay so if it was bad there shouldn't be power to relay but I found broken tab on this switch. tried removing but no joy, It seems it might be riveted to the bracket, Any help apprcieated.

 

Should say " it fired right up 4 times then wouldn't turn over"

 

The steel plate that the microswitch is riveted to can be removed from the plastic selector housing.

That is the way it is sold from jaguar.
The individual switch is NSS (Not Sold or Serviced Separately)

Some people drill the rivets and replace the switch with a generic one.

 

What happens if I just twist the wires together ? will it just be able to start in gear?

 

The switch does several things: allows the shifter lock to release when you press the brake (car in Park); engages the key barrel lock when the shifter is pulled OUT of park; and activates the drive-away door locking feature. Did I forget any?

When mine failed and after soaking in contact cleaner didn't improve it, I used a generic microswitch. I had to muscle out the old one which fought me all the way. The rivets are hard to drill because they were put in "backwards". I don't know how to remove that metal plate as Motorcarman says. I didn't really want to dig any deeper. Then the cheap replacement switch lever broke off the next time I took off the shifter panel, so buy a few of them. At least it was easier to replace the second time.

if you tie the wires together, you should be able to start (if you have the glowing P) and pull it out of Park. Or just crank from Neutral. But after you shift out of Park you will hear the interlock click every time you step on the brake. The gear selector black box to the right of the switch should prevent cranking from anything other that P or N.

 

"activates the drive-away door locking feature"

I'm curious how it does this, Once you move out of park the switch is open

 

Welcome to the forums sturner,

That'll be 6 cylinders short of an an XJ12.

I've moved your thread to X300 forum. Please read the guidance for new members ( https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/n...ned-up-241802/ ) which answers many of the most frequent questions about getting started.

Graham

 

Thanks, Any chance you still have a P/N for the switch you used?

 

No, but they are known as mini lever snap switches. Search on Bay or Amz turns up many results. Some have the measurements listed which is helpful to compare to the old switch. The ones I bought did not have the right spacing between the holes, but I improvised. BTW you have to solder on the original 5" pigtail. The plug is easy to find once the wood panel is off.

 

Would anyone know where the ground is located for the starter relay??

 

On the starter solenoid relay the BPM provides a ground to control the relay

there is 1 fuse that has power always present on the control half of the starter solenoid relay

someone did recently find a loose connection on the starter pigtail ( 13 mm )

 

Fuse # 12 / 10 amp right engine bay fuse box

This relies on the inanition positive relay to close

to test the relay with the key in the run position and the engine not running .................

this is the small relay in the corner of the right engine bay fuse box < remove and reinstall and it should click in your fingers

 

Thanks, I have the constant power to the relay & the power the #1 terminal & with key in run position I can jump terminals 3&5 on the plug the car starts right up, I've changed ignition switch and next week driving 100 miles to get the micro switch for the shifter park pos.I do have the 2 wires twisted together but still no start. after changing starter car started 4 or 5 times then nothing. looking at the schematic if the BPM or ground was bad then I shouldn't have power at the relay correct? with key in run or start position I have power to starter relay both circuits .

 

Thinking , but have errons

Intermittent problems can be hard to nail down with logic

So you have to keep track of what variables stays constant and look for the one that does not

easier said then done

there is a depression dimension of the red button on the micro switch , this is different than the moving metal arm

this dimension is hard to find in the product desciption from a vendor

it is something like 5 or 10 mm

You can make a 12 volt test light for the 2 other sockets of the starter solenoid relay and look for it to light every time

right and left engine bay relay swap ?

Some have mixed up a normal open and normal closed microswitch

Pin 5 to car frame ground on the ignition switch connector good and very close to 0 resistance, this ground stud can get disturbed

The BPM only provides a command ground for the starter solenoid relay to close

The control half power " sitting " on the starter solenoid relay comes from fuse # 12 of the right engine bay fuse box

the not in park switch provides a ground to the BPM

By twisting the 2 wires together may not be a valid starter enable configuration , it could be backwards

You can take the Blue / Slate wire to a known good ground, then try the start key position and observe the test light on the starter solenoid relay socket

Then remove the ground and observe the test light behavior

 

I replaced ignition switch already, when turning key to run or start I have power on #2 circuit, replaced micro switch & still nothing, when key to run pos I get check eng & the top light that looks like transmission with x thru it, And every time I try to remove the key I have to disconnect the battery to move it all the way, So does the car think its in gear?

 

So l;ets track it down in a different path being the key lock solenoid

Editing

The Body Processor Module is continuing to provide a ground on the Red / White color wire

 

Do you know how to do a " Hard Reset " on the BPM ?

 

 

No on doing a hard reset

 

Reset the crash / inertia switch ?