If the in and out switch of the ignition switch does not make it will drain the battery

 

 

Thanks for the video, Now I know why the steering column didn't move, LOL

 

Well we're making progress,, Tested fan wiring and both worked , Plugged back in fans working now, Borrowed buddies scanner cleared codes, Started car slight misfire got check eng light scanner says misfire #3 & 4 cyl,let car warm up misfire goes away clear codes doesn't come back ,Hopefully getting close to getting this thing on the road

 

In the test you did for the fans you verified the fan control relay module , this does not test the switch itself

If it is hanging upside down, it will get water inside the module and ruin the power contacts inside so something to watch for

The proper module installation is the wires / connector is on the bottom, ask me how I know

The black color module on the later X308 does not work for the white color X300 model , a little bit of a difference

The TSB is to simply jumper the freon line low pressure switch and this will have the low fan mode on as soon as you start the car

Might try some in the tank fuel injector cleaner on the misfire

 

"The TSB is to simply jumper the freon line low pressure switch and this will have the low fan mode on as soon as you start the car"

Ok, Just verified no fan when key in run pos, Could it have to do with the refrigerant switc? i turned ac on and let run did not get cool, Maybe needs servicing, Of and what does TSB stand for?

 

So breaking the coolant fan operation in 2 parts

engine coolant temp :

the coolant fluid thermostat will keep the coolant just above the 88 C to keep the ECU in closed loop mode

After warm up the coolant temp will not get below this 88 C because of the regulated coolant flow regardless of how many fans blowing across the radiator/ condenser

The contact points for the 2-position coolant temp switch is 86 and 100 C

Your instrument coolant temp gauge is a independent temp bulb other then what the ECU sees which is the 2 wire sensor on top of the coolant thermostat housing, the temp bulb is next to it as the single wire

The instrument gauge is not accurate, it is what it is but there is a modification

freon pressure A/C demand with fans blowing across the A/ C condenser:

with too low freon pressure ( 2 bar , metric ) the A/C clutch will disengage , and too high 27 bar

under low A / C demand of 12 bar freon pressure the low fan mode will be enabled

with high A ? C demand of 20 bar freon pressure the high fan mode will be enabled

The intent of the modification with the TSB is to not have the fans go from no fans to both ( at the same time higher startup amperage ) then fuse blowing and then you have no fans and a coolant / engine overheat situation

Fuse #11 / 30 amp left engine bay fuse box powers both fans ( at the same time in cases )

14-06 (jagrepair.com)

 

Serviced no help on fans with key in run position , The fans have the wire jumper mod done.

 

That points to the fan control relay module which may be intermittent

You can move the connector from the right fan to left and see how your key on behavior responds , this is just a fan motor check / comparison

Do not pull away the connector lock on tab to hard as plastic and can break

With the TSB done and the low temp 86 C switch being out of the picture no need to test that

There have been cases where the fans themselves go bad

The fan control relay module is under the car just fwd of the left tire , you might find it mounted upside down , I could shake mine and hear water inside

Remember you need the white color module only from the X300 and not the black version of the V8 powered X308

 

See item # 5 , LNA6702AA superseded by LNA6702AB

Genuine Relays For Jaguar Xj 1995 - 1997 (from 720125 To 812255) Classic | Jaguar Land Rover Classic Parts

Compared to item # 5 for the V8, LJA6702AA

Genuine Relays For Jaguar Xj 1998 - 2003 (from 812317 To F59525) Classic | Jaguar Land Rover Classic Parts

 

to test for intermittent fan system,( relay module and fan motors ) do the paper clip on the 3 wire temp switch on the radiator and count the successes

and then you can bring the right fan connector over to the left fan motor if you need to and test that way

The whole fan shroud lifts up and out with the 2 bolts on the top tangs

You can run the individual fan motors with a car battery or battery charger

The Back wire for the left fan will be the negitive post

The Black / White wire for the right fan

A battery charger or battery will not harm the motors as the motor has electrical resistance

 

Had time for 1 quick test, Pulled connector from radiator switch, one side has power , outside to outside both fans turned on power to middle nothing, Right fan connector to left fan fan turns on going power to outside again nothing on center connecter

 

You will have to look at the wire colors , the 2 white wires will have power , not as a high muscle power but a feeler or sensing power of 12 volts

The black wire will be a car frame ground , and this ground needs to be good for the whole thing to work

Position 2 and 3 across the connector will be feeler power and you need to verify this first with the meter on the voltage setting

only after verifying voltage on 2 and 3 turn the meter switch to resistance and only put it on the connector 1 position

Otherwise you will blow the fuse inside the meter

The resistance should be close to 0

the ground stud post should be behind the left headlight under the air filter housing and there will be about 4 wires on the same ground stud

You did prove both fans work in the high mode once which is a good sign

You may have to repeat the same test several times to see a intermittent fail

This will be several times white wire ( 2 ) to black ( 1 ) and then several times the other white wire ( 3 ) to black ( 1 )

You can put a bread twisty or tape flag on the black wire to keep quick track of it as the connector gets twisted around in your hand

 

I only have 1 white wire, Its about half the size of the other wires and theres no voltage on it with key in run

Black confirm ground

12v on #3 with key off

#2 is also going to ground

which circuit should get power whence in run pos?

Does the refrigerant triple pressure switch have anything to do with it ?

 

Thinking and comparing to mine

If I remember correctly with the key in the run position and engine not running the paper clip on the 3 wire connector will give you both modes f

Away from the 3 wire temp switch if you remove the 4 wire connector on the freon pressure switch and jumper wire X to Y you will get high fan mode

Editing

 

Well, Don't know what I did but I did it good, I jumped the hot wire to the other 3 circuits on this switch got nothing but now the car won't start, everything seems to boot up and the lights go away on the dash like normal but nothing when turning the key to start no click nothing, I didn't notice before but the red SRS AIRBAG LIGHT comes on in the start pos, I jump the relay car starts and al lights go out

 

The 4 wire connector on the freon lines is for high fan mode ( 20 bar freon pressure ) and the other 2 wires on the same 4 wire connector will disengage the compressor if below 2 bars ( under serviced freon ) and higher then 27 bars ( too high working pressure )

The 2 black wires in the 4 wire connector are grounds

This 4 wire connector has no effect on the starter circuit or the BPM

With the key in the run position and engine not running the right engine compartment fuse box relay must click every time the relay is removed and reinstalled

this is the same case with the left heel board fuse box relay and the right heelboard fuse box and trunk fuse box

 

Yes they all clicked,,,No click from left eng bay fusebox relay

 

The left engine bay fuse box is the same part # for all but the relay in the corner is used for the car horn

The fuses on the left engine bay fuse box with the exception of the horn fuse are hot at all times bypassing the relay and hooked up internally to the box positive terminal post

 

Just a quick check, I do have power at the starter relay in run and start pos, I have light at trans shifter