Well, Found the problem for the no start, Since I couldn't find a OEM style "Not in Park Switch" I had to jerry rig a different one, And once the center counsole was put back together once in park the shifter wasn't making good contact with the switch lever, So while removing the screw the head twisted off which means I had to pry the switch off which means it broke so now I have to find another one.

 

The red button on the microswitch has a dimension that it has to be depressed to make , this is also important on the wiper park switch

This dimension is hard to find from vendors and off the top of my head comes in 5 and 10 MM but that's too large of a scale

 

Got a new switch ordered, While I'm waiting for it what in the world is this thing?

 

I tried to get to a salvage yard today and remove a used switch / lever

Camshaft position sensor, CMPS , CEL code P0340

It is a hall effect sensor used only in the starting sequence

If you unplug it the car will still start but takes more engine revolutions

With the proper adjustment the circle on the internal rotor will line up in the window at # 1 TDC , do you have a elongated biasing Andy Bracket for the CKPS ?

The crankshaft bolt is either a 33 or 34 mm but the fan shroud has to come out for tool clearance

You have the old version of the timing chain tensioner just above the CMPS and a better one was designed by a TSB

03.1-09 (jagrepair.com)

See page 29 figure 3 of the doc below

The sealatic is a leaking O - ring on the installation

See the second Timing doc below

 

Man, This car is really starting to confuse me, Now it won't start in park, Microswitch in open condition in park everything boots up normal nothing, but will fire up in neutral

 

Replaced Not in Park switch car starts, put console back together and car starts, replaced fan relay module fan turned for a couple seconds now car is dead again, Checked fuses all ok

 

Something quick and simple on the engine stalling is the power to the Engine ECU

Right engine bay fuse box relay ( ignition positive relay ) can be swapped with the left engine fuse box relay ( horn )

Large ECU controlled relay ( right # 5 ) that must remain closed at all times for the second power to the ECU , this relay is controlled by the ECU and brings power back into the ECU

You can jumper the fuel pump relay to bypass the fuel pump enable to directly power the fuel pump at all times

By powering the fuel pump at all times it will drain the battery after car shutdown with the keys in your pocket










Your power sockets are 3 going to 5 which is the wire leg to the pump motor

 

Your fan power source fuse # 11 left engine bay fuse box which is hot at all times as the fuse bypasses the corner relay , tis relay bypass accrues inside the fuse box

Only fuse 10 , 12 , 14 , and 16 on all 5 fuse boxes relies on the corner relay to be closed

So if the fans dropped out on you it is a fan control problem

 

Your fan control relies on the inertia switch to be closed which can be troublesome from reading others

The inertia switch is just fwd of the engine ECU

You can remove the inertia switch connector and jumper between the 2 white wires leaving the 3rd black wire alone

 

Swapped relays , fan turned for a moment then stopped , No crank still

 

try the inertia switch mentioned on later post # 129 above

 

the inertia switch will shut the engine down and shut the fuel pump off which is the primary safety objective

 

Let me backup a moment, After I changed the micro switch on the shifter it started 9 or 10 times, NOW while I was starting it the fan relay module was disconnected, then UPS delivered my new Relay module I connected it turned key to run top fan started turning then stopped and car won't turn over now

 

But it will start if I jumper the starter relay circuit, If it was the inertia switch I would think it wouldn't allow to start, Am I wrong?

 

And my understanding is it just cuts power to the fuel pump , Car will not turn over at all

 

There is a connection between the inertia switch not making between the 2 white wires and starter rotation

The inertia switch can be fickle even after you think you reset it by pushing the rubber button , don't take it apart as springs fly everywhere

Mine was involved in a accident with the previous owner and I ended up replacing the inertia switch

Researching with diagram to follow

 

The ignition positive relay must be commanded closed by a ground path in order that the engine ECU to be powered with fuse # 12

the engine ECU must be powered to be able to provide an agreement / enable ( a secret digital code ) to the BPM so it can provide a ground to close the starter solenoid relay

 

I haven't looked it up yet but I'm assuming the inertia switch is under passenger side side panel?

 

It is always on the right side seat footwell above your right ankle

This is someone's right hand steering model

 

Jumpered 2 white wires on inertia switch, Fan turns on and stays on but still no crank,,, Whats the black/green wire do?