I can't imagine how much would cost to replace the whole differential with a new one if it brakes...
BTW if I put the car in sport mode and full throttle at green light I can hear a noise in the bottom of the car when gear are engaged up (1-2-3).
I do not hear any noise if I do the same in normal mode N (no sport).
I just tried couple of times.

 

Brendan,
I have a vague recollection of there being both an inner and outer bearing at each wheel, making for 4 fronts and 4 rears for the complete task? But then, it was several years ago and the memory is foggy....

Xj,
Cam cover gasket is a simple job and parts-cost is <$50. Just make sure you also get 6 plug well seals and 13 bolt seals while you are at it.

 

The sensor he is referring to is the ABS sensor, as the speedometer gets it's signal from the ABS system. Could mean he broke off the small bolt that holds the sensor in place ( it happens, steel bolt in aluminium housing corrodes), but you could probably drill and tap out the broken bolt, rather than replace the whole hub.

 

Synthetic? Even that shouldn't cost $40/litre.

 

Budget around $1500-2000 for a rebuilt unit and around 12-15 hours of labour. It's an involved job.

 

Yes that is true but they are normally sold as a kit for the wheel. Here's the parts I was using as a reference.

https://www.britishparts.co.uk/jagua...it-front-p2402

https://www.britishparts.co.uk/jagua...kit-rear-p1994


Doug makes a fair point about the spacer shim process on the rear bearing potentially being time consuming. It could be if you're unlucky but I've done this job at least five times and never had to use a different shim other than the original.

 

I am curious about the output shaft spacer item. If it is the part I am thinking about, it fits between the output flange of the diff and the driveshaft, and its thickness determines the camber of the rear wheel.
Some time ago, I took my car for a four wheel alignment, and it was determined that both rear wheels were out of spec on camber. The only adjustment is by changing the thickness of the spacers, and a variety of different thicknesses are listed by Jaguar classic spares.
On speaking to my local Jag dealer, they could find no record of ever having sold any these parts, but they confirmed their availability, which made me think.
The output shaft oil seals had been replaced recently, so the half shafts had been disconnected and the spacers removed. On a hunch, I swapped the spacers across the axle, and hey presto, perfect rear camber on both wheels.
The spacers had been replaced incorrectly when the oil seals were being fitted.
The relevance of this being that the original spacers did not need replaced, and the impression given by the dealer was that they never do.
So why did your spacer need replaced, and if there was some reason, why is there no charge for a wheel alignment, which would be necessary to determine the correct thickness of spacer had been fitted.

For what it is worth, i would not agree that these diffs only last 120000m

 

Shoot him. Twice.

 

There is a spacer to adjust camber, but that's not usually adjusted for wheel bearings.

There is a spacer inside the hub for adjusting the preload of the bearings. That preload needs to be calculated and adjusted when new bearings are used. Part #4: https://www.jaguarclassicparts.com/u...-assembly-rear

 

I wonder if the "spacer" in the OP itemised parts list is actually the Bearing Collar?

The collar must be replaced as it is destroyed in bearing removal, and a collar is not in the list.

 

I'm currently having the rear bearings and A frame bushes replaced on my 1996 3.2 X300 at my local Bosch approved specialist. He invited me down yesterday to see the amount of work done as they had gone over the time they had suggested originally due to seized bolts snapping off on both hubs and the A frame. All parts were cleaned and laid out on the floor ready for reassembly including new hand brake cables which were also seized. I expect the car back on Tuesday because they have to check a few other things for me as we are going on a 2000 mile rally through Europe in a few weeks.
I'll post the costings so you have a reference, albeit from the UK, but he told me 'normal' rear bearing change is max 2 hrs labour (I think that was for both sides) and the bearings are next to nothing to buy even from Jaguar.
Mechanics should be able to tell you from the manufacturer recommendations how many hours labour is involved in any job on the car rather than some arbitrary number they pull out of the air. Other issues as described above obviously impinge on those times and labour costs.

 

I don't know how much you trust this guy, but I don't. recently I was concerned about my front bearings. Got new bearings and seals. Removed wheels and checked bearings. Put new parts back in box. Cleaned existing bearings, regressed bearings and put it all back together. Car now has 145,000 miles. The rear bearings are even more rugged and very difficult to even check. So I checked them off my list of concerns. I suggest you do the same. Find a new mechanic. If anywhere near Texas I suggest MotorcarMan.

 

well right now I am more concerned about the ABS sensor that he attached back with Loctite...

 

I did my rear bearings a few months ago, it was not an easy task because the hub was rusted and I had a lot of trouble getting it off.

Not alone to talk about the abs sensors that break as soon you touch them to get them out.

I tried to repair it by using some glue, but that failed of course. Ended up buying a used abs sensor from an x308.

The other hub i removed with abs sensor and all, i was too afraid to break that too.

Not an easy task when everything is rusted and stuck, that is probably also the reason why they charge so much money for that job.

If you have a mechanic that has never done bearings on the x300, I can for see problems like described above and paying for more labor time.

In my case, I am just a noob and learned it the hard way.

 

WHOA ?

Early X300's are comparable with X308's ? That would solve many sourcing and cost problems including mine that seeks the clarity and oneness of a no light dash .

 

Im sure you have read my post before about it when I was struggling with a noise from the rear.

You can just push out the wiring from the x308 sensor harnass and use it in the x300 sensor harnas. Then the rest is all about placing it the right way.

Didnt worked right away, after some fidling and having the right height for it and the right angle it works great!