Good evening

As part of diagnosing a general issue with my car not running properly (see my separate much more detailed thread on that) I am changing the fuel pump tomorrow.

When I remove the locking ring on the top of the tank how do I actually pull the pump out? It appears from photos that there is a metal bracket with a rubber insert attached to it. Do I just pull the pump up and out through the circular rubber retainer or do I remove the metal bracket with the rubber and pump still in place? If the latter, how is the bracket fixed to the tank?

Any advice, tips, tricks etc. would be appreciated. I already know how to get access to the top of the tank so this question is purely related to the pump removal itself.

Thanks
Sam.

 

Good evening!

When removing the fuel pump, you're correct that there’s a metal bracket with a rubber insert around it. Typically, you don't need to remove the bracket itself; you can just pull the pump out carefully, but it may be a bit snug. The pump should lift out of the rubber retainer once you’ve removed the locking ring, so gently pry it loose if needed.

In some cases, the bracket might be held in place by tabs or clips, so if it’s not coming free, check for any fasteners securing it to the tank. Just be cautious not to damage the rubber insert, it helps seal the tank and minimize leaks. You might also want to take note of how the pump is oriented when you remove it, as reinstalling it correctly can prevent issues.

If you're having trouble pulling the pump, a little wiggle or some light tapping on the sides (using something soft to avoid damage) might help loosen it. Best of luck with the swap.

 

You are going to need some submersible rated fuel hose as well. I’ll have to check on some of my previous threads.

This hose will be sold by the inch, and will be very expensive, relatively speaking. Don’t go cheap.

The hose you currently have is probably 30 years old, so you’re due.

From my XJS experience:
Well, I hope it's over. I had the failing hose in the fuel tank replaced with a Gates 27093 hose, which is gasoline submersible and exceeds SAE J30R10.

I do want to add, a 1' length of this 5/16 hose is adequate to make the connection. I thought Rock Auto cut this hose to length, but I received two 1' pieces instead of one 2' piece.

 

Okay so a quick write up on my experience with this job today and I am still elated that after 6 weeks the car is now working properly again.

There are two ways to do this - tank out which is the "proper" way or go from above the tank by making own access. Given the car was marooned for quite some time on my drive blocking every other car in and was recently towed onto the street and it is illegal to work on a car on the street in Spain taking the tank out simply was not an option. So the process:

- Remove heel boards - one Phillips screw each one
- Remove seat base - one Phillips screw either side. Need to push seat belts through the holes in the seat base
- Remove seat back - four Phillips screws and then pull it up and off the clips on the rear bulk-head
- Remove parcel shelf - two plastic push clips and it can be manouvered out - bit of faffing to get seat belts out of the way but not too hard. Remove sound deadening piece below the parcel shelf, just lifts off

You'll then be presented with either a large speaker hole - in my case it had a cover over it with 4 Phillips screws - or, if you're lucky someone will have been there before and there will be a nicely cut hole or flap of metal giving you access. If nobody has been there before as in my case, you need to cut a hole above the ring on the top of the tank which is just visible - why Jaguar didn't provide access here is staggering but thats life. I used a Dremel with Speedclick discs - not easy because of all the profiles in the metal panel - ended up ruining 3 or 4 discs before they were even part worn because of the angle I was working at and the tool body getting in the way of where I was trying to cut. I used wet cloths under where I was cutting. I have seen a video where someone drilled a series of holes and used tin-snips which if I was going to do the job again I would probably try instead of the Dremel. One you have access:

- Remove small jubilee clip and fuel line
- Remove electrical plug
- Turn the retaining ring and then lift off the white plastic top. I didn't remove the electrical connector on the underside as it was unnecessary
- Pump the tank out dry with a small pump - I used a long plastic battery-powered pump - these are dirt cheap and really useful to have
- Reach in and pull the pump with the rubber retainer off the metal bracket - very easy despite my initial concerns as to how to do this

At this point you can turn the pump over and get to the small jubilee clip holding the fuel hose on. Then remove electrical connector and remove the pump with the filter sock from the car.

- Swap over the rubber retainer onto new pump getting it in more or less the same position
- Fit new filter-sock to new pump including the small metal retaining clip
- Put the pump into the tank upside down so you can get the fuel hose on. This is quite tricky as you have little space and the hose is quite short. Tighten jubilee clip
- Reinstall electrical connector to pump
- Push the pump into position with the rubber retainer clipped over the metal bracket - I found this very difficult because with my hand and arm into the tank opening I couldn't see what I was doing so its "by feel"
- Refit plastic cover and retaining ring
- Refit fuel line

Then I just bent down the flap of metal I had made, refitted the cover that was there - got 3 of the 4 screws in.

The rest as they say is the reverse of removal. Getting the seats back in on your own is a little tricky but I managed it.

Whole job took me about 2 hours working fairly sedately. I dare say I could probably change the pump in under an hour now I have done it once and the hole is already cut.

Hope useful!