Purchased this pump "Trust Lucas" but the outlet does not have any barbs on it to hold the pipe at 45 psi
Anyone seen the original (1997) . Dont have the original out yet .

 

I just replaced the fuel pump two weeks ago. The new one is made by Delphi. The outlet is metal and in a vertical position. The original fuel pump was the same. A standard worm gear hose clamp was on the original and I used the same clamp on the new one. Took a few attempts for the engine to start but once it did, it ran smoothly. Your new pump should have come with new "rubber" isolators to hold the pump steady inside the cage.

Please note, there is a small tab on the bottom of the cage holding the fuel pump which fits into a small slot on a shelf inside the tank. It isn't the easiest job to do because of the small clearance between tab & slot plus the small screw that holds the top of the cage in place. Good luck.

PS This was done on the 1998 XK8 Convertible

 

I was not happy so I sent it back and bought one with grips on the outlet to bite into the pipe .
Strange it was half the price of the one I sent back at £12 about $15.

Thanks for your response

 

Hey Becky, I've got a 98 too. Seems like everything thats a PITA to fix and could break already has - except the fuel pump. Was wondering did you cut a hole in the rear shelf?

Thanks, John

 

No need to cut the shelf it has a speaker hole in it ( Coupe only) so I plan to do it thro that .It has been done before .

 

Hi John,
You are absolutely correct about any repair / maintenance effort being a PITA with respect to the '98 XK8. (The 2001 is the same. Ugh!) Note, both of mine are convertibles. Love them but they are a pain.

One of the previous owners put a hole in the rear shelf. Did a nice job but it seemed to be about an 1 inch in diameter too small to remove the venting / electrical interface part that locks on the top of the fuel tank. So I added a set of dog ears about 1/2" wide x 1" long on both sides of the hole so the part could be flipped on its side & removed. In retrospect, it might have been possible to wiggle that out between the tank and top of the trunk frame.

The back of the back seat has to be removed. That is much easier to do if the bottom of the back seat is removed first. Two nuts under the front of the seat. (I learned the hard way).

Best of luck.

 

Oh thank you Becky! Maybe could I ask a big favor? Time is NOT of the essence, but could you please take photo of that hole sometime? It will be invaluable to me or probably anyone facing the thrill of dead reckonning - where to drill?

Thanks, John

 

I don't mean to butt in, but this thread has some good info and photos -

Fuel Pump Access - Jaguar Forums - Jaguar Enthusiasts Forum

 

I klike butts preferably young female ones

 

Jimmy, big thank you. Just what I was looking for!

Appreciated,

John

 

Hi John,

Happy 4th!

Photos are a great idea but as I mentioned in my first post to this thread, I replaced the fuel pump a couple of weeks ago. Since my cars are daily drivers and the purpose of having two XK8’s is to have one available when the other needs maintenance / repair, I finished the installation including the interior and trunk.

However, it is not difficult to determine where to drill a pilot hole to determine the center of a hole for the rear shelf. After removing the soft liner of the trunk, remove the steel plate immediately behind the fuel tank (5 bolts). The cap on top of the tank is the one you want to remove the fuel pump through but do not remove that cap yet. After removing the back seat and rear shelf soft cover, use a small right angle drill head motor and a 3/16” or so diameter drill to create a pilot hole in the rear shelf as closely on center to the cap on top of the fuel tank (from the trunk side of the back shelf). The rear shelf is composed of two layers of sheet metal making very difficult to cut with “tin snips or aviation sheet metal snips”. I suggest using a 2” dia air or electric powered circular cutter. Creating a rectangular hole in the rear shelf is as effective as a round one. Its purpose is to allow one’s hand to fit through the shelf (and hole available after removing the cap on top of the fuel tank). Since sparks are likely to be created, it would be a good idea to disconnect both battery cables AND ground the body of the car. Also suggest the use of two good size box fans to keep the air flowing through the trunk and passenger compartment to disperse any gasoline fumes.

After replacing the pump, you should cover the hole in the back shelf with a suitably sized piece of sheet metal. Coat the underside of it to reduce vibration noise between it and the rear shelf.

Next time I have to access the fuel tank, I’ll take a few photos.

 

Wow, thanks Becky!!! This is great.

Happy 4th back at ya :-)

John

 

New $15 pump with correct barbed outlet .

.

 

Well got the pump changed .will do a seperate post on that ..but supprised to find that the old one did not have the brass connector but was plain like the one I sent back. May have been changed previously but no markings other than Denso. Photo below ..all fitted and started first flick of the key.

left old right new