Hi all, I went to get my AC regassed as it’s never worked since I’ve had my car. The technician said that it wouldn’t work as my compressor was leaking. I was expecting a mechanical failure rather than just no gas left to explain the not working AC, so this is not a surprise.

Is there any way to narrow down which part is leaking without all the proper AC kit? New compressors are quite expensive, so if it’s just a valve or something that would be nicer to replace.

If it does have to be the entire compressor, is it just a straight swap (unbolt one, put the new one in), or are there more things to be done at the same time? Thanks!

 

There is a climate control panel bite test to cover the bases shown as someone's video

There are detailed instructions in a following manual , see page 110 and there is a TSB to see the codes definition , this manual as the XJ section covers the same later X308 system

14-10 (jagrepair.com)

T703 BOOK (jagrepair.com)


There is a cheap reseal kit shown in this venders videos

You have a Denson 10PA series dash 17 ( ? ) compressor

Their cheap parts page doesn't seem to open but this is the main page

Automobile Air Conditioning Parts of Tucson Arizona, Century Auto Air, AC Parts, AC Service and Hoses, www.centuryautoair.com

See video part 1 and 2


More things to be done at the same time as compressor removal is the dryer replacement ( age lets the dryer beads loose clogging the TXP valve ) ) air blow out the TXP valve in reverse flow direction

Cabin temp sensor cleaning as this clogs with lint effecting overall cooling performance but does not show a code

 

In watching the Denso seal replacement video the top square seal can be preplaced without removing the compressor in theory

Then you can recharge the freon and go from there and drive away

This is a costs trading exercise if that one seal does the job or have to go deeper and get another freon recharge ( cost ) after a more complete seals replacement by removing compressor

Same thing as earlier recommended should be done on dryer full part replacement ( can't be repaired but at least it's a cheap part ) and cabin temp sensor cleaning ( use no solvent but clean with brush and air only )

 

Interesting, I’ll look into that seal.

Is there a dye I can inject to perform my own leak test? I say this because the compressor never kicks on presumably because the oil/refrigerant is too low, so I’m having trouble tracking down where exactly it was leaking from.

 

The words " compressor leak " is easier to say then taking the steps to know exactly what to say accurately , they move on to next customer and no more effort spent on you

They make a lot of parts markup profit and billable labor in replacement by selling you a new compressor

The leak test dye is avail , but you have to have the compressor rotating and a full or somewhat full freon charge to observe an external leak

The compressor clutch will not engage if the very low freon pressure switch ( a 4 wire ) protects the compressor, the clutch is always spinning externally so you can't get a visual confirmation

There is a fuse # 8 / 10 amp right engine bay fuse box for the compressor clutch and large relay # 3 right that should click by finger on it with A C on / off command

See page 21 and 17

X300 1996 LWB.pdf (jagrepair.com)

The know the compressor clutch is engaging and have someone turn the A / C on and listen for a clutch engagement , there should be a designed in time delay between A / C on and off

By yourself from the cabin is marginal if you can hear it from the cabin or notice engine RPMs / load change

The engine regulation is already shifted to higher RPMs to make up for assumed compressor load , it is a matter if both things are happening at the same time , regulation change being masked by the compressor load on engine

With a somewhat operating freon charge you can feel the different temps on the hot high pressure freon line ( this will be the line with the factory pressure switches on it } and the cold line to know if the clutch is engaging

The leak can be coming from a 2 wire freon pressure switch leaking that is subject of a TSB so they have a historical flag for leaking itself ( in paper ) , this 1 of 2 ( the other 4 wire ) freon pressure switches was removed in the TSB . In reality the 2 wire pressure switch can remain in place if not leaking ( the 4 wire is never touched ) and the connector pins are Jumper'd to accomplish the need / end effect of the TSB

 

G'day Toby,

I had a problem with my car aircon compressor recently and I had it rebuilt by a local specialist for less than a third of the cost of a new replacement and I am happy with it.

Cheers,
Jeff.