I searched & did not see a "How To" for replacing a Fuel Pump without pulling the tank, so here goes:

1. Disconnect battery.

2. Bend down the carpeted panel at the front of the trunk (boot) by grabbing the top with both hands and pulling towards you. There are 2 plastic pop rivets which secure the panel to the fuel tank & they'll simply pop loose when pulling the panel in the manner described.

3. Disconnect the electrical connector atop the fuel tank that's connected to the evap unit (round panel with hose & wires)

4. Enter the rear seating area and unscrew & remove the 2 fuses panel covers beneath the rear seat. They are both secured by a single phillips head screw.

5. Unscrew the 2 phillips screws securing the seat bottom & remove the seat bottom from the vehicle.

6. Unscrew the 4 phillips screws securing the seat back & lift it upwards to remove from the vehicle.

7. There are 2 plastic pop rivets which secure the parcel panel. Simply place a flat object (screwdriver) underneath the panel near the rivets and lift upwards. There are 2 tweeters connected to the panel. Unplug both and the panel can be removed. Beneath the panel is a sound deadening pad which simply lifts off.


The above will take you about 10 minutes.


8. You'll now clearly see the evap unit with it's round retaining ring. You'll need to cut a 5"x5" square just above it to give yourself unubstructed access to the evap unit/fuel pump. A Dremel or Angle grinder will finish the cutout for you in a matter of a few minutes.

9. Use a flat head screwdriver and rubber mallet to remove the retaining ring for the evap unit & lift it up & off.

10. Put your hand in the opening and lift the fuel pump off of it's mounting bracket. The pump is simply secured by a clamp and removes easily, no tools required. Disconnect the rubber fuel line and electrical connector and retrieve the pump.


That's it. Simply reverse for install, and now you can make any future pump changes on the roadside in under half hour. For those as adventurous as I, there is an $18 pump available that's a perfect fit. I purchased 2, so I can keep a spare in the trunk. Here is a link to that pump.

NEW GLOBAL AUTOMOTIVE FUEL PUMP & STRAINER JAGUAR VEHICLES GA8285


NEW GLOBAL AUTOMOTIVE FUEL PUMP STRAINER KIT GM VEHICLES GA3270 items in GLOBAL-AUTOMOTIVE store on eBay!

 

When I open the link, I do not see the GA8285 pump. Please check and clarify. That was a great writeup of the procedure.

 

You don't happen to have any photos, do you? Particularly of the rather scary sounding step 8?!

 

I didn't have any trouble pulling the tank out of my '96 last May when I changed the fuel pump. Used a Denso replacement which took the original pigtail.

 

uh yeah the hardest part of replacing the fuel pump is disconnecting lines underneath the car on the tank. but if you modify a long piece of PVC pipe to a shape like the plastic release tools its easy. the tank doesnt take long after that. I personally wouldnt want to cut up my or a customers car to save 30 minutes time. But to each their own

 

Apologies. I simply copied the link to the store from my EBay order and it yielded the above link. GA8285 is the correct pump. It is an exact fitment with the exact same shape/dimensions as stock and uses the stock electrical connectors. Absolutely no modifications are necessary. And it's surprisngly quiet. You can't even hear it kick on from inside the passenger compartment.

 

Unfortunately I did not take photos as I was uncertain of success prior to starting. Once I'd removed the seats & parcel shelf and saw first hand how little needed to be cut away, I grabbed my angle grinder and a couple minutes later was staring at nice easy access to the evap unit/fuel pump.

The passenger (right) side cut follows an obvious seam.

Then I cut the front about 1" back from the edge 5" over towards the drivers (left) side.

I then made a diagonal cut to intersect with the existing center speaker opening.

Then simply cut straight across the rear to complete the cutout.

The cutout can be easily accomplished by a novice who has never made a cut before. It's as simple as using a pair of scissors and requires no muscling, nor unusual dexterity, whatsoever.

 

I agree that removing the tank didn't look to be too difficult. My problem is my Condo Association Bylaws strictly prohibits working on vehicles in the garage. The idea of getting under the vehicle, manuevering to release fuel lines which seemed to have given some others trouble, and buttoning it all back up only to discover you'd made one incorrect step and would need to redo - all streetside. Well it just sent me looking for an alternative.

Then when I read that the hose blowing off the pump inside the tank was a common fault on the X300, I decided that easy roadside access might be desirable.

I'd only suggest this method to those without access to a proper garage; As well as those who might see a benefit to having the fuel line blowoff not require a tow. With this mod, in the future you can be back on the road in about as much time as changing a flat tire, all accomplished on the roadside and inside your passenger compartment protected from the elements.

 

Now that makes sense... Adapt, innovate, overcome! I'm paying a mortgage on a house in a deed restricted community here in Florida. We always have the deed **** riding around the development and folks here continually think up diabolical ways to twart her nefarious schemes...

 

It's been a bit more than a year since the fuel pump install, and I wanted to provide an update/endorsement of the 'cheapy' fuel pump. I've now had 12000 trouble free miles with that $18 pump. I was initially a bit suspect because of the low price, put it seems to be a quality unit.

 

I went ahead and ordered the pump. It's cheap enough to just through in with my spares when I travel.

 

Great solution, Thank you. I have been having a monster time trying to get the lines out of my 1995 X300 fuel tank. This simplifies the whole process.

 

Have just completed the installation of the pump. Very easy to do. The Australian X300 has a central anchor point that is right in the middle of the rear parcel shelve though so that interfered with the cut out.

 

Glad it helped. It really does make pump replacement a completely painless procedure. I don't know why the good folks at Jaguar didn't just leave a cutout there in the first place. It just makes too much sense and makes pump replacements as quick and easy as replacing brake pads.

 

I just did this and it really was easy and to me the right way to do it. The only problem I had was that I did not know there was 2 fuel pumps in my XJR. oops. I'll go back in and change the other one soon.

 

Many many years ago, when I first started driving, my first car (and I use the term loosely) was a Fiat 850. The engine, in the rear, was tucked in under the parcel shelf and many bits were quite hard to get at.

This especially applied to the last spark plug, buried deep in at the back (front?) of the engine. It as impossible to get at without a series of sockets, extensions, adapters etc. which then couldn't be turned anyway, due to the lack of space.

My solution was to remove the rear seat and cut an access panel from the steel panel behind it. I then pop riveted the panel onto a strip of piano hinge, and with the aid of a small magnetic catch, the panel could be opened any time I wanted. The offending plug was almost burnt away and it amazes me still that it was still firing!

Anyway, it meant that I could change all of the spark plugs with ease, and access some other parts as well.

Then, about a month later, a drunk driver hit me, almost head on, (only for the fact that I got enough out of his direct line of fire) and he totalled the car!

But for four weeks, I had a full set of new, clean spark plugs fitted, all firing away beautifully.

 

The only thing that bothers me about not removing the tank to replace the pump is that the tank has been in service for 20 years and could certainly use a good cleaning out. I'm sure there is some junk in the bottom of that tank thae should be flushed out. Cutting the car structure to get to the pump does not do a thing for cleaning out the tank. That is unless you guys have a neat solution for that as well????

 

My car is a POS with 208,000 miles on it and when I looked into the tank there was nothing but gas in it. No sediment of any kind, if there would have been I probably would have siphoned it out or then made the decision to pull it out.

 

Looks like a good write up, thanks for sharing.

These how to's always benefit from as many pics as possible, for the absolute in walk throughs, or video if you could please?

Thanks again, much appreciated

 

I performed this last night after hummin and hawin' for quite a while over doing the job from below, I even got the disconnect tool and was ready. I am glad I did it the cut open way. I kinda hacked up my metal shelf but I'll come up with a gasket + door for it. It's really not practical NOT to have this. If you have a road side issue and a spare pump, you could seriously be back on the road in under 45 minutes for the average diy mechanic.

On a more important note, I observed several things.
1) There was some sediment/dirt in the bottom of the tank , not a ton. This is one area where dropping the tank is ideal. I could have also run it down or siphoned gas. Instead I ran my magnet through it and left the rest be. It is below the netting an after I ran the magnet, there really was a light dust. I change my fuel filter religiously.

2) Now for the good part. My pump was most certainly OEM, never changed. The car idles so much more beautifully. The throttle response and acceleration throughout the power band is an obvious upgrade. My MPG is up too. I wish I had done this sooner. My car is at 119K+ and feels better than it ever has for me. I got the car at 88K.