X300 Fuel Pump Replacement - Easy Way
#21
01-19-2016, 06:10 PM
Veteran Member
#22
01-19-2016, 08:00 PM
Veteran Member
#23
01-20-2016, 09:22 AM
#24
01-20-2016, 02:39 PM
#25
01-20-2016, 03:45 PM
. Perhaps not to the level of a fresh out of the box Bosch, but I figured I'd save my shekels.
#26
01-21-2016, 08:10 PM
It's been a bit more than a year since the fuel pump install, and I wanted to provide an update/endorsement of the 'cheapy' fuel pump. I've now had 12000 trouble free miles with that $18 pump. I was initially a bit suspect because of the low price, put it seems to be a quality unit.
#27
01-21-2016, 09:35 PM
Veteran Member
I bought this one in Nov, 2014 but it has thus-far only been installed in a file cabinet.
I searched it out after seeing it mentioned here in the forum. I credit either Suede or Grant... apologies if it were someone else. Anyway, at the time it was $14.95 and the description said it was for "Jaguar and other vehicles"
New Premium Fuel Pump Strainer American Japanese Korean Vehicles GA8285 | eBay
I searched it out after seeing it mentioned here in the forum. I credit either Suede or Grant... apologies if it were someone else. Anyway, at the time it was $14.95 and the description said it was for "Jaguar and other vehicles"
New Premium Fuel Pump Strainer American Japanese Korean Vehicles GA8285 | eBay
#28
01-31-2016, 01:51 PM
Senior Member
'
#29
05-22-2016, 08:08 PM
I used to be an HOA **** in Summerlin, Nv.
It was common to find people working on their vehicles but...don't we all need transportation?
I'd always ask if they couldn't take it into the garage and if they couldn't, I'd give them 48 hours until I would come back around.
99.9% of the time, no cite-able issue.
It was common to find people working on their vehicles but...don't we all need transportation?
I'd always ask if they couldn't take it into the garage and if they couldn't, I'd give them 48 hours until I would come back around.
99.9% of the time, no cite-able issue.
#30
02-24-2017, 04:04 PM
Senior Member
So I have a 1997 XJ6 and I am attempting to follow the directions given at the beginning of this thread but my rear seat back has head rests and seat belts going down through the back/upper edge of the seat back. As a result I am having a problem with trying to get the seat back out cleanly without breaking anything.
Anyone else done this procedure? If so how did you deal with the seat belts?
Anyone else done this procedure? If so how did you deal with the seat belts?
#31
02-24-2017, 07:06 PM
Veteran Member
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#32
02-25-2017, 08:19 AM
Senior Member
difficult to jack car up in current location
So I have pulled the fuel tank the normal way out of a 1994 XJ40 several times and I agree it is not really that difficult to do however it does absolutely require being able to jack the car up to get to the lines underneath.
Unfortunately where my X300 has died is in the driveway at my home and the surface under the car just does not let me safely jack the car up. It is old broken up blacktop that is uneven and crumbly. A floor jack and jack stands just cannot be used in a way that would allow me to safely get under the car. Plus the dead car has my pickup truck blocked in which is what I would normally use to tow a car around so I could move the dead X300 to my shop across town where the floor is safe to jack things up on.
So in short I am really not wild about making the cuts to the parcel shelf but at this point that seems to be the best solution to my current problem.
BTW, I did order the fuel pump from Ebay for $12.50 with free shipping. Such a deal.
Unfortunately where my X300 has died is in the driveway at my home and the surface under the car just does not let me safely jack the car up. It is old broken up blacktop that is uneven and crumbly. A floor jack and jack stands just cannot be used in a way that would allow me to safely get under the car. Plus the dead car has my pickup truck blocked in which is what I would normally use to tow a car around so I could move the dead X300 to my shop across town where the floor is safe to jack things up on.
So in short I am really not wild about making the cuts to the parcel shelf but at this point that seems to be the best solution to my current problem.
BTW, I did order the fuel pump from Ebay for $12.50 with free shipping. Such a deal.
#33
02-25-2017, 11:05 AM
Veteran Member
Have you checked fuse and relay? I towed one of the 96's up the hill to the shop and then whilst contemplating a solution to get it over the hump and into the shop (Concrete floor is about 3"-4" proud of the gravel approach) Not enough room for car behind tractor to tow it in....Thought well, wouldn't hurt to check the electricals...found the fuse good, but the relay pretty-well melted. Pulled it and a nearby like-kind, popped the good one into the fuel-pump socket, fired up and drove it in! (Contemplated driving it until the nearly-full tank was down below 1/4) but then thought better of it...didn't want to be inconvenienced waiting on a tow away from the homestead...
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#34
02-25-2017, 11:08 AM
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The original pump on many X300s was made by Denso, though early cars may have the same Walbro pump used on XJ40s. I hope the cheap pump from eBay is plug and play and won't require you to modify the wiring harness, which will be no fun working through the parcel shelf. I also hope it will last, so you won't have to do the job again in the near future....
Cheers,
Don
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#36
02-19-2018, 01:48 AM
#37
04-03-2018, 12:26 AM
Veteran Member
BTW, some info on available fuel pumps:
https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/x...ptions-198476/
Note, in summary:
I bought the Denso 9500172 and it was completely "plug and play", and is clearly the OEM item.
I didn't have to modify/splice the electrical connector, and it fit the factory mount just as the original.
.
https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/x...ptions-198476/
Note, in summary:
I bought the Denso 9500172 and it was completely "plug and play", and is clearly the OEM item.
I didn't have to modify/splice the electrical connector, and it fit the factory mount just as the original.
.
The following users liked this post:
Don B (04-03-2018)
#38
05-26-2020, 07:16 PM
Junior Member
Dry ice is NICE!
I searched & did not see a "How To" for replacing a Fuel Pump without pulling the tank, so here goes:
1. Disconnect battery.
2. Bend down the carpeted panel at the front of the trunk (boot) by grabbing the top with both hands and pulling towards you. There are 2 plastic pop rivets which secure the panel to the fuel tank & they'll simply pop loose when pulling the panel in the manner described.
3. Disconnect the electrical connector atop the fuel tank that's connected to the evap unit (round panel with hose & wires)
4. Enter the rear seating area and unscrew & remove the 2 fuses panel covers beneath the rear seat. They are both secured by a single phillips head screw.
5. Unscrew the 2 phillips screws securing the seat bottom & remove the seat bottom from the vehicle.
6. Unscrew the 4 phillips screws securing the seat back & lift it upwards to remove from the vehicle.
7. There are 2 plastic pop rivets which secure the parcel panel. Simply place a flat object (screwdriver) underneath the panel near the rivets and lift upwards. There are 2 tweeters connected to the panel. Unplug both and the panel can be removed. Beneath the panel is a sound deadening pad which simply lifts off.
The above will take you about 10 minutes.
8. You'll now clearly see the evap unit with it's round retaining ring. You'll need to cut a 5"x5" square just above it to give yourself unubstructed access to the evap unit/fuel pump. A Dremel or Angle grinder will finish the cutout for you in a matter of a few minutes.
9. Use a flat head screwdriver and rubber mallet to remove the retaining ring for the evap unit & lift it up & off.
10. Put your hand in the opening and lift the fuel pump off of it's mounting bracket. The pump is simply secured by a clamp and removes easily, no tools required. Disconnect the rubber fuel line and electrical connector and retrieve the pump.
That's it. Simply reverse for install, and now you can make any future pump changes on the roadside in under half hour. For those as adventurous as I, there is an $18 pump available that's a perfect fit. I purchased 2, so I can keep a spare in the trunk. Here is a link to that pump.
NEW GLOBAL AUTOMOTIVE FUEL PUMP & STRAINER JAGUAR VEHICLES GA8285
NEW GLOBAL AUTOMOTIVE FUEL PUMP STRAINER KIT GM VEHICLES GA3270 items in GLOBAL-AUTOMOTIVE store on eBay!
1. Disconnect battery.
2. Bend down the carpeted panel at the front of the trunk (boot) by grabbing the top with both hands and pulling towards you. There are 2 plastic pop rivets which secure the panel to the fuel tank & they'll simply pop loose when pulling the panel in the manner described.
3. Disconnect the electrical connector atop the fuel tank that's connected to the evap unit (round panel with hose & wires)
4. Enter the rear seating area and unscrew & remove the 2 fuses panel covers beneath the rear seat. They are both secured by a single phillips head screw.
5. Unscrew the 2 phillips screws securing the seat bottom & remove the seat bottom from the vehicle.
6. Unscrew the 4 phillips screws securing the seat back & lift it upwards to remove from the vehicle.
7. There are 2 plastic pop rivets which secure the parcel panel. Simply place a flat object (screwdriver) underneath the panel near the rivets and lift upwards. There are 2 tweeters connected to the panel. Unplug both and the panel can be removed. Beneath the panel is a sound deadening pad which simply lifts off.
The above will take you about 10 minutes.
8. You'll now clearly see the evap unit with it's round retaining ring. You'll need to cut a 5"x5" square just above it to give yourself unubstructed access to the evap unit/fuel pump. A Dremel or Angle grinder will finish the cutout for you in a matter of a few minutes.
9. Use a flat head screwdriver and rubber mallet to remove the retaining ring for the evap unit & lift it up & off.
10. Put your hand in the opening and lift the fuel pump off of it's mounting bracket. The pump is simply secured by a clamp and removes easily, no tools required. Disconnect the rubber fuel line and electrical connector and retrieve the pump.
That's it. Simply reverse for install, and now you can make any future pump changes on the roadside in under half hour. For those as adventurous as I, there is an $18 pump available that's a perfect fit. I purchased 2, so I can keep a spare in the trunk. Here is a link to that pump.
NEW GLOBAL AUTOMOTIVE FUEL PUMP & STRAINER JAGUAR VEHICLES GA8285
NEW GLOBAL AUTOMOTIVE FUEL PUMP STRAINER KIT GM VEHICLES GA3270 items in GLOBAL-AUTOMOTIVE store on eBay!
#39
05-26-2020, 07:22 PM
Junior Member
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