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If you get length dimensions you would have to ensure it is from a NA or SC engine as the SC has an extra pulley on the crankshaft for the blower
A air to air intercooler would be much larger and you already have a installation done for you with the original liquid coolant to air intercooler
Some have put a higher flow capacity electric pump ( Bosch # X ) in place of the original which can be expensive, this is needed for the intercooler beyond the engine block common mechanical water pump
Your ordinal Datsun engine was cast iron so you have an even weight trade so you might get away with your original front springs
Originally Posted by XJRengineer
I offer a specification for tuned exhaust primary pipes lengths and diameters, and secondary diameters, from a computer simulation in GT Power software to optimise peak power at 5,000rpm.
If you were to keep the air-water-air inter-cooling, then I would recommend replacing the Hella pump with a Bosch pump , as it increases coolant flow from 7litres/min to 11litres/min.
If you decide to change to air-air inter-cooling and mount the throttle downstream of the inter-cooler, then the bypass valve for the supercharger will experience boost pressure. This does not happen in the standard installation. I do not know if the vacuum capsule is designed to be exposed to boost pressure.
Please also note that the bypass valve does not perform the same function as a "dump valve", or a wastegate in a turbocharged engine. The bypass valve operates in a closed circuit, to minimise pumping work by the supercharger when the engine is operating at part load. The air passing through the bypass circuit should be recirculated in order to achieve good fueling control, as the air being recirculated has already been measured by the air flow meter. If the throttle is mounted downstream of the inter-cooler, there is a risk that the recirculated air could flow "backwards" through the air meter, depending on the details of your bespoke installation. Personally, It is not clear why you wish to replace the air-water-air inter-cooling system with air-air. It seems a lot of work, and introduces several problems, not present with the standard installation. Air-air inter-cooling a supercharged engine is more complicated than air-air inter-cooling a turbocharged engine, due to the function of the bypass system.
Originally Posted by Jagboi64
The other big disadvantage I see with air-air is the piping size required to move that amount of air is very large, compared to the small diameter of a water hose.
Originally Posted by Parker 7
The reason a air to air intercooler works on a aircraft is the speed as it relates to the mass air flow rate through the exchanger ( not the mass air flow consumed by the engine )
I initially thought the AJ16 used engine coolant for the cooler, so removing it seemed the easier option over trying to modify it or mess with it; I suppose I also assumed it impeded flow more than a larger air-air would. Given your responses, it now seems like I am wrong on both counts, so I am reconsidering this option.
For purely curiosity sake: has anyone ever removed the supercharger and built this engine with a turbo, instead? I would think Mr. Andy would have the best idea of how to make that work tuning-wise. Also a side thought on that, would anyone local to me be able to tune this thing once I get it running? I would think that'd mean Mr. Andy divulging some secrets, so maybe not?
I initially thought the AJ16 used engine coolant for the cooler, so removing it seemed the easier option over trying to modify it or mess with it; I suppose I also assumed it impeded flow more than a larger air-air would. Given your responses, it now seems like I am wrong on both counts, so I am reconsidering this option.
For purely curiosity sake: has anyone ever removed the supercharger and built this engine with a turbo, instead?
The supercharger intercooler does use engine coolant. Although jacket water and cooler water are tied to a common header tank, they effectively behave as separate circuits operating at different temperatures.
Hmm. Would it be worth making my own entirely separate circuit? Thinking about it, I'm not sure if I'll have the coolant pump anyway. Is it mounted to the engine, or in the bay? If the latter... I'll likely be needing to make my own circuit from scratch anyway, as I only have an engine to work from, not a whole car.
That turbo is awesome! I'll have to read all the details when I have a moment. Did he ever post a dyno with it? I'd love to see that power curve vs SC!
The coolant pump is an electric Bosch pump, you can mount it anywhere. You could make a separate circuit, but then you need two header tanks and it sounds like space is at a premium for you.
I'll probably be developing my own header system to work in the Datsun once I get to that point. Pay once, fab 18 times, cry.... maybe twice? We'll see.
I'm concerned about routing around different things in a much different (smaller) engine bay. I'm going to be down to inches of spare room, by the looks of it.
Hopefully I'll have a photo of the AJ16 suspended in the Datsun soon. That'll be a very, very telling day of how much pain I have to look forward to. The oil pan shape and size already has me pretty concerned...
Someone on this forum also offers fabricated manifolds for AJ16 engines.
I can reprogramme your engine ECU to European specification. You could them delete the EGR valve and pipework, which would give you more space between the engine and bulkhead. I can programme the ECU as manual specification, which would stop the engine ECU retarding the ignition timing by 5 degrees, due to being in limp-home mode, as a result of the missing signal from the automatic transmission ECU, that is no longer present.
Someone on this forum also offers fabricated manifolds for AJ16 engines.
I can reprogramme your engine ECU to European specification. You could them delete the EGR valve and pipework, which would give you more space between the engine and bulkhead. I can programme the ECU as manual specification, which would stop the engine ECU retarding the ignition timing by 5 degrees, due to being in limp-home mode, as a result of the missing signal from the automatic transmission ECU, that is no longer present.
That would be fantastic.
I'm currently debating selling the Datsun car I have now and trying to purchase a '75 instead. Then I can be exempt from the smog testing and be able to get rid of all those bits. If not, then I'll probably have to consider keeping them on...
Any tricks you know for getting the engine to run cleaner? I could even try to find another ECU and have one programmed for emissions, then swap to an every-day version...
You only need one engine ECU calibration to give both good emissions and good performance. I don't know what is required where you live in terms of "in-use" emissions testing for a car built in 1978, but fitted with an engine from a 1995-1997MY car. I would think that any exhaust system with a functioning 3-way catalysts and closed loop fueling control would pass, any emission test that was applicable to a car built in 1978. The best way to ensure that you have "clean emissions" - build an exhaust system with new catalysts and have an engine management system with a mass air flow sensor and functioning close loop fueling control (ie retain the engine ECU from the XJR6 engine).
I would think that any exhaust system with a functioning 3-way catalysts and closed loop fueling control would pass, any emission test that was applicable to a car built in 1978. .
As an aside, a number of years ago when there was an "earth day" and free emissions testing was offered. At the time I had a 1964 E Type and it met the 1982 emissions standards being on carbs and having no emissions control equipment, so I'm sure an EFI engine with a catalyst would have no trouble.
You only need one engine ECU calibration to give both good emissions and good performance. I don't know what is required where you live in terms of "in-use" emissions testing for a car built in 1978, but fitted with an engine from a 1995-1997MY car. I would think that any exhaust system with a functioning 3-way catalysts and closed loop fueling control would pass, any emission test that was applicable to a car built in 1978. The best way to ensure that you have "clean emissions" - build an exhaust system with new catalysts and have an engine management system with a mass air flow sensor and functioning close loop fueling control (ie retain the engine ECU from the XJR6 engine).
I'm thinking along a very similar line of reasoning. The '78 Datsun doesn't even have a CEL, so it can't technically fail the test for having one on... My concern is them taking issue with the swap itself, regardless of how clean it runs. There's not a doubt in my mind that the AJ16 runs way cleaner and more efficiently than a batch-fired fuel injected car with a dizzy. It's just a matter of convincing California that this is a better way.
Originally Posted by Jagboi64
As an aside, a number of years ago when there was an "earth day" and free emissions testing was offered. At the time I had a 1964 E Type and it met the 1982 emissions standards being on carbs and having no emissions control equipment, so I'm sure an EFI engine with a catalyst would have no trouble.
It might be advisable to get a standard set up sc engine to run first in the different chassis
Get the kinks worked out
Then build out from there
Your mechanical TDC is on the front crank pully as a mark at the 4 O'clock position , the white marks are for a different subject
The CKPS missing gear tooth gap will match on a standard bracket but not a Andy bracket ( 5 degree offset )
the crank nut is either a 33 or 34 mm
I do, yes! Funny enough, it's the rustiest part that came with everything! It looks like the supercharger was replaced shortly before this engine found it's way to the scrap yard. The paint on it is extremely fresh and clean, doesn't match the rest of the block.
As I recall, if Andy is reprogramming the ECU anyway, he can put that advance into it without the bracket, correct?
Sadly, I probably won't have a good chance to dig into the AJ for a while. Work is taking me out of town next week, and it's been just too hot to get any meaningful work done outside. I still need to locate a rebuild kit of some kind, as well. A gasket set at the very least. I'll weld up the cracks in the manifold logs for now, just to get this hunk to a point where it can be fired up once it's mounted in the new home. (I'm also still waiting on the transmission to show up).
Does anyone know if the bellhousing and flywheel from the XJS fits the AJ16? I have the engine and the Getrag 290 5-speed... just not certain on the bits in the middle.
The XJS WAS MADE WITH BOTH AJ6 AND THE LATER AJ16 , the difference being a distributor cap on the fwd right SUPERSEEDED BY A 2 WIRE cAMSHAFT POSITION SENSOR
