Don't forget to replace the O - ring high on the engine block / transmission split

Observing from afar without the details from experience

 

The plastic cover is for access to the torque converter bolts on an automatic.

 

Bolts--I reused the ones that were on the automatic. I had to eye ball and match them. Several different sizes, unfortunately, I didn't keep a record
Starter--I too was confused. The adapter on the automatic has both holes that are threaded for the starter. But not on the manual. I ended up just using a lock washer, nut and a long bolt. Probably a more elegant solution exists...
Power steering--pump is run by a cog that is part of the timing chain train
Dual mass--only the XJR had a dual mass so you could course a single mass one from the other Jags...or you could buy one from Simply Performance. Freight cost has gone up but it isn't too bad. Plus they will guide you through the process of sticking a manual behind that engine

Forewarning--whichever clutch you use with the single mass flywheel, it's going to be stiff. I have tried several master cylinder/slave ratios with little success but I suspect the whole setup lacks much to be desired. IMHO it's still a bit too stiff for a "luxury car"...don't know how it is with a dual flywheel setup

 

I know Lee Evernden has experience with both the stock dual mass and aftermarket single mass flywheels, so he can probably answer some questions on driveability - you can find him on the XJR 6 Supercharged group on Facebook if he is not here on this forum.

With the current strong dollar and weak pound, buying the stuff you need from simply performance might not be so bad, even with the added cost of shipping.
As i mentioned in an earlier post they do supply everything you might need, so that might be worthwhile rather then gambling on random parts.

i recently mailed with Ben and this was the price list i got for the parts (naturally subject to change as in the current economic apocalypse)

Friction disc, cover and bearing £495
New flywheel £475
OR Used flywheel £120
Bearing holder £95
Mounting hardware £32.50

 

Yes sir! Got it on my to-do list for the teardown.

Oh, excellent. Thank you.

I wish I had bolts to re-use! My engine arrived with a naked rear, and the cover I ordered didn't include the hardware.
Starter - Took another look at the trans housing to make sure I didn't miss anything. Guess a really long bolt is all you can do!
P.S. - Can the cog be removed without affecting the timing?
Flywheel - Which other models had a single mass? I had it in my head it was an option for certain XJS models.
Stiff is just fine for a clutch, I'm used to it. I've strongly disliked every dual mass I've driven.

Thank you for all the help!


I don't have Facebook, so I will give him an email. I ordered a 1500 Silverado clutch at the local store, so I plan to bring the dual mass flywheel in to see if it lines up. At this point, I'm mostly just curious to see how close it comes.
Those prices are *steep* for standard clutch stuff! I'm used to seeing those numbers when it comes to street competition and race level Exedy stuff. I'll spend it if I have to, I suppose!

Funny enough, that release bearing sleeve looks identical to the one I just refurbished for the Datsun powertrain.
I spent the last couple weeks rebuilding the L28, as I plan to put it back in this chassis and sell it. I'd rather hunt for a '75 chassis and dodge all the smog nonsense with a swapped vehicle entirely, rather than try and fight through it.
Check out how crusty those valves were! No doubt, that was where I was losing my compression from (had about 100psi across all cylinders). Finding that was another factor in deciding to rebuild and sell this car, since I didn't have to mess with rings and piston bores.

 

The power steering pump is connected to that cog in the timing chain train via a coupler. I suppose you could remove that coupler and remove the pump without doing too much surgery. Not sure if that cog will stay in place once the coupler is removed... But if you wished to remove the cog from the train, you would have to either shorten the timing chain or somehow put more tension on the chain to reduce the slack...and plug the hole. Although I don't see why you would want to relocate the power steering pump, it's pretty much hidden behind the engine as is...the AC compressor is the one that hangs out

I have a used flywheel, that I had resurfaced, that came with an XJS. I believe the 3.2 and 4.0 litre Jags of the same generation and the one before had the same one (don't quote me though!)

The clutches they sell are a bit overkill for sure but they work well. Probably explains the stiffness too

 

I don't intend to relocate power steering, just remove. The Datsun doesn't have power steering, and I don't really intend to retrofit a rack into it. I was actually hoping to put an A/C compressor in that tucked away spot!

Was that you offering to sell me a single mass flywheel?

 

Ah, I misunderstood. My bad. In that case, yes, that would be an ideal spot for the compressor

I wish I had a spare flywheel, I would have sent it over just to see this project running!

 

There is a TSB on the PS pump coupler that may help to understand

10-04 (jagrepair.com)

 

Clutch package torque sheet

This will be affected by the thread length engagement from the standard parts in a factory setup

See page 15 seection 7.1 below

 

See page 63 figure 2 and item 7 figure 1

 

Regarding flywheels and clutches:

I've started inquiring at Clutch Masters to see if they have any insight on either sourcing or creating parts for this equipment. It'll likely be expensive, but going full custom on the flywheel would mean I can spec any clutch I want with it.

I've also reached out to Simply Performance, awaiting a response from them. I found an eBay listing for their kit, and it looks to be $1,500USD plus any shipping. Yikes.
One issue I have with the Simply Performance option, is they use EBC4132 for the clutch plate, and EAC9985 for the clutch cover... neither of these parts seems to be any easier to source than the original dual mass option. Feels like a lot of money spent just to be in the same situation years later, when parts are even more scarce.

This got me thinking, looking for a replacement option that has a bit more availability, and I've started looking at BMW options. Generally speaking, any BMW that came with the M30 engine had the Getrag 290 as an option, so I started looking at 91ish 535i's.
Lo and behold, they also use a dual mass flywheel. However, since BMW is much more popular in America, there's a few companies that make single piece flywheels for these cars. They are pricey, but they open the door to *much* cheaper and easier to find clutch kits. To me, that's spending the same amount of money up front in order to spend less, later.

Digging through information on the web, and comparing to the dual mass flywheel I have now, it looks like this might actually be a fit:
- Jaguar is 8-hole on a 3" diameter circle for the crankshaft
- Jaguar clutch friction surface is 11" outer diameter (and roughly 6.5" inner diameter)
- Jaguar XJS dual mass flywheel has 134 teeth*
- Getrag 290 has 23 teeth/splines on a 1" diameter shaft
- Getrag 290 has a roughly 1.25" length snout on the end that sits inside the center bearing of the flywheel.

*In my reading, it seems like some Jags have 134-tooth wheels, and others have 133-tooth wheels. Can anyone confirm how many teeth are on the XJR6 automatic flexplate? There seems to be a lot of instances of starter/flywheel/tooth damage involved with anyone asking prior...

Thickness of clutch is unknown at the moment, I cannot find my caliper, but I'll eventually have that number. I do see that Simply Performance mentions a spacer, to take up extra space after swapping, so clearly the single piece is less thick than the dual mass, which makes sense. Either way, it's not much of an issue as a spacer can be utilized.

With all of this information on hand, I think I should be able to find a flywheel that fits and works, and go from there. I'll update with anything I find, and hopefully the manual guys can get some more options out of it!

Edit: I found a photo on eBay UK of the XJR6 flexplate, and was able to count: 134 teeth. That makes things simpler.

 

Just counted mine and it's 133. That's a fairly standard Jaguar number for a long time.

Are you sure that's a XJR flexplate? I ask because I only see rub marks at 3 of the torque converter mounting holes, and the GM torque converter in the XJR's transmission has all 6 pads used. I don't know how many the ZF torque converter uses.

 

That definitely isn’t a flex plate from an XJR

Please see attached photo for one. I took this off from my auto XJR which had the GM gearbox


I count 134 teeth… I had some trouble counting so I counted it thrice but please check …



Manual bolts (~33 mm) vs auto bolts (~48 mm)

 

Sorry for the long silence, work has had me very busy lately and I haven't had much time to progress on the Jaguar side of the project.

I did manage to to get the rebuilt motor back into the 78 280Z and it now runs beautifully! Finally got to properly drive my car after a few months with it.

I then immediately put it up for sale and started hunting for an older car to work with! Long story short, I got ahold of a '74 260Z chassis that has zero rust (beyond the light surface rust), perfect floors, frame rails, battery tray, body panels... everything.

The plan now is to use the '78 280Z as a parts donor and build up the Jaguar powered Datsun in the 74 shell. No emissions testing, no fussing with EGR and Catalytic converters, and complete freedom to tweak and tune it as I see fit!

As for the Jaguar side of things, I have been in contact with Simply Performance and I have a quote for a flywheel and clutch... but it is a steep one. I don't mind paying a cost, but my concern is having to pay it for a wear item. I'm looking into the possibility of having a custom flywheel made that can accept off-the-shelf clutch kits and a friction surface from Summit or some such.

I'll probably be a bit quiet again for the near future, as I finish the restoration and prep on this chassis and get ready to start fabricating mounts to get the AJ16S in there. Then, I'll be bugging you-know-who for an ECU tweak to get it fired!

 

Funny enough, I have a 240z as well, and I bought a AJ16 NA as a back up motor roughly half a year ago if not longer.

I'm doing all custom parts, electric water pump, audi r8 coilpacks, etc

 

Do tell about the coil packs…….. Easy fit, wiring change etc etc………….?
New OEM coils are always a pain to get, so anything that might work is good to hear about!

 

I have a DXF for a coil bracket so an XJ40 Valve cover can be fitted, if its of intrerest i can pass it along. Ive used Coyote Coils with an 94 XJ40 Cam cover on my AJ16 ( these work with the stock ECU as of my 200km of testing )

 

Do you have a product #

On a Wells publication I saw that the X300 coils were at somewhere around 35,000 volts vs . 30,000 volts for other coils

for other aplications

 

I could never find any specifications for the jag coils . But I’ve used a generic version of what you had shown by Australian engine parts supplier mace. I will look up my order and post the deets in the ignition coil saga thread