00 XJR Door card removal
Well I can describe it for you, if that would do?
1. Disconnect the battery (I never do, but I advise people to do it!)
2. Using a needle (or something else small and sharp), carefully pry out the round black plastic cover that covers the screw holding the plastic "cup" under the door release handle. Once the little bugger is out (VERY hard to do without leaving marks on it! - At least for me), remove the Phillips screw that holds the cup in place. Lift the handle (like when you are opening the door from inside), and fish the cup out of the way.
3. Starting at the B pillar side (oposite side from the hinge), carefully pry up the corner of the wood pannel. To get it up enough to stick my fingers in, I use a plastic spatula. Once the corner is up, keep pulling it until two tabs are free from the door "card" (or pannel in the States). Once two tabs are free, slide the wood pannel slightly backward, and it will come free.
4. Look under the door grab handle, and there is another Phillips that's not covered. Remove that.
5. Starting at the lower left corner of the door card (by the red marker light), pry it up just enough to stick the tool over the black plastic "nipple" that you will see. There is a special tool to remove these without braking them, but I don't have one. I use a kitchen fork! I slide the fork over the black head of the "nipple", and pry it out. Once the first one is removed, the others will be visible. Keep prying them out. (the wife is still wondering how come our forks are disappearing, and they are TOAST after you're used them once!)
6. When all the tabs ("nipples") are out of their respective plastic anchors that are in the metal of the door, grab the grab handle with youre right hand, place the left one on the bottom edge of the card, and pull up. This will dislodge the white clip that is on the opposite side of the grab handle from the Phillips screw you removed previously. (this white plastic "anchor" for the clip will stay with the card, but has to be removed off of it, and placed on the door before the card needs to be reinstalled)
7. As the card moves up, the weather stripping ("waist seal") will come loose, and the card will be in your hands, free.
It is now attached only with the electrical wires. At this point, I am squatting, and the card is on my knees face down (to expose the electrical connectors). Unplug the speaker, window/lock control, and a red marker light wire, and the card is FREE.
Installation is in reverse, making sure that the square, white plastic anchor is removed off the card, and placed in its hole in the metal of the door. When you push the card inward (to install), the clip that stays on the card will slide into that plastic, and grab. All of it is pretty self explanatory once you get in there.
If you get stuck, don't force ANYTHING, and ask here. I've removed my door cards several times without braking/damaging anything.
1. Disconnect the battery (I never do, but I advise people to do it!)
2. Using a needle (or something else small and sharp), carefully pry out the round black plastic cover that covers the screw holding the plastic "cup" under the door release handle. Once the little bugger is out (VERY hard to do without leaving marks on it! - At least for me), remove the Phillips screw that holds the cup in place. Lift the handle (like when you are opening the door from inside), and fish the cup out of the way.
3. Starting at the B pillar side (oposite side from the hinge), carefully pry up the corner of the wood pannel. To get it up enough to stick my fingers in, I use a plastic spatula. Once the corner is up, keep pulling it until two tabs are free from the door "card" (or pannel in the States). Once two tabs are free, slide the wood pannel slightly backward, and it will come free.
4. Look under the door grab handle, and there is another Phillips that's not covered. Remove that.
5. Starting at the lower left corner of the door card (by the red marker light), pry it up just enough to stick the tool over the black plastic "nipple" that you will see. There is a special tool to remove these without braking them, but I don't have one. I use a kitchen fork! I slide the fork over the black head of the "nipple", and pry it out. Once the first one is removed, the others will be visible. Keep prying them out. (the wife is still wondering how come our forks are disappearing, and they are TOAST after you're used them once!)
6. When all the tabs ("nipples") are out of their respective plastic anchors that are in the metal of the door, grab the grab handle with youre right hand, place the left one on the bottom edge of the card, and pull up. This will dislodge the white clip that is on the opposite side of the grab handle from the Phillips screw you removed previously. (this white plastic "anchor" for the clip will stay with the card, but has to be removed off of it, and placed on the door before the card needs to be reinstalled)
7. As the card moves up, the weather stripping ("waist seal") will come loose, and the card will be in your hands, free.
It is now attached only with the electrical wires. At this point, I am squatting, and the card is on my knees face down (to expose the electrical connectors). Unplug the speaker, window/lock control, and a red marker light wire, and the card is FREE.
Installation is in reverse, making sure that the square, white plastic anchor is removed off the card, and placed in its hole in the metal of the door. When you push the card inward (to install), the clip that stays on the card will slide into that plastic, and grab. All of it is pretty self explanatory once you get in there.
If you get stuck, don't force ANYTHING, and ask here. I've removed my door cards several times without braking/damaging anything.
The tool is a Bojo Vee, you can buy the single or a set, they make trim removal tools for Snap On, they're plastic so do not damage paint.
When installing the card get the top hung up on the inner door panel first, being careful to align and install the chrome door lock/unlock button through the card.
Another thing to keep an eye out or are the sharp edges on the alloy strip the window seal sits in, it can cut and damage the vinyl on the door frame, a dead giveaway the car's been messed with, Jaguar Factory use a tool (lolipop stick) to defend said vinyl.
The card's rivets are 2 piece so can be replaced if bust, but not if the mounting parts are, so alignment is important before tapping them home.
When installing the card get the top hung up on the inner door panel first, being careful to align and install the chrome door lock/unlock button through the card.
Another thing to keep an eye out or are the sharp edges on the alloy strip the window seal sits in, it can cut and damage the vinyl on the door frame, a dead giveaway the car's been messed with, Jaguar Factory use a tool (lolipop stick) to defend said vinyl.
The card's rivets are 2 piece so can be replaced if bust, but not if the mounting parts are, so alignment is important before tapping them home.
EBAY photo of the back of the driver front door card:
https://www.dropbox.com/s/50ev1927df...or%20panel.jpg
Here are 4 weblinks are to PDF files extracted from JTIS shop manual software that have step by step instructions and illustrations on removing front door panel.
https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/a...l-76-34-01-pdf
https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/a...t-76-34-22-pdf
https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/a...g-76-34-23-pdf
https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/a...l-76-47-11-pdf
Illustrations in these PDF files maybe some help.
Jim Lombardi
https://www.dropbox.com/s/50ev1927df...or%20panel.jpg
Here are 4 weblinks are to PDF files extracted from JTIS shop manual software that have step by step instructions and illustrations on removing front door panel.
https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/a...l-76-34-01-pdf
https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/a...t-76-34-22-pdf
https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/a...g-76-34-23-pdf
https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/a...l-76-47-11-pdf
Illustrations in these PDF files maybe some help.
Jim Lombardi
Last edited by jimlombardi; Jun 13, 2013 at 07:16 AM.
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