This how far I got...
All I can say is Everything was only hand tight
The sprocket for the exhaust cam on the driver's side, The one that I mentioned earlier that wasn't lining up, wasn't tight at all.

 

I'm thinking you dodged a bullet here, seems like that sprocket was prime for letting go and causing valve clash!

p.s. a nice cleanup job......things are looking good!

 

Thanks CK..
The stuff we do when you have too much time on your hands...
Ran into a problem with one of the Cams locking bars had to drill the holes 2 sizes bigger to use it. Now looking over the parts I just received so far 1 of the tensioners wasn't packaged and the there's no pin.
How do I get it back in ? Do you know?
thanks.




I contacted the seller he's going to send me a replacement. . Stuff happens. ..

 

Make sure you clean up those water pump bolts (hand or drill wire brush) so your torque can be applied properly and avoid leaks. Other than that, your looking good.

You should be able to press it down with wood clamp and use a heavy paperclip or 1" finishing nail to retain it.

 

Hi HH.
I Tried it with one of the old tensioners. It's locked into place it's not like the upper ones...
Doesn't matter the seller is sending me a new one....
I wasn't done cleaning. .. Mr Mint Sauce!
So Pushy......



that's it for cleaning. ...

 

I have problems catching up on this thread ... going too fast .
Great to see you are well prepping everything, and well protecting stuff in the process.
Keep the good work up!

 

Thanks Eric.
I trying and all you guys have been a lot of help... Yes even Mr Mint Sauce.

 

Been busy with important things all day, like Spring cleaning of the garage and prep for re-painting the garage floor.......I don't know where I keep getting all this stuff-I- can't-do-without from, last time I did this was 5 years ago and didn't have half the stuff-I-can't-do-without that I have now! So, due to being occupied in the garage all day I have been out of the loop with the tensioner rebuild progression. It really sucks that the new tensioner had lost its pin, and is that rusty tensioner the original, or the new one? Christopher's are really good about making things right, and you should get a replacement priority mail.

I can see you are doing a good job with cleaning and surface prep work, definitely don't want to do this job twice!

Did you make any progress with replacing the thermostat tower.......? Now would be a good time to take care of that.

 

Yessir, looking good...

 

[QUOTE=Carnival Kid;2205853]Been busy with important things all day, like Spring cleaning of the garage and prep for re-painting the garage floor.......I don't know where I keep getting all this stuff-I- can't-do-without from, last time I did this was 5 years ago and didn't have half the stuff-I-can't-do-without

If it wasn't so embarrassing I would show you a picture of my other garage and the ship I've been holding onto for more than 20 years, half is new product but obsolete now...
So I feel your pain...

As for the tensioner that one you see in the picture The Rusted one without the PIN was part of my order I just got, I already called Christopher's and spoke with the owner and he assured me he would send out a replacement right away so I'm not too worried about that
I mentioned it was you that recommended him.
I got the thermostat housing and distribution pipe on order. I think I should also order a intake gasket kit.
other than that still cleaning little things.

Everyone stay safe and healthy.
I don't want to hear anyone turned into zombie!

all updates as soon as I have something to update thanks guys

 

[QUOTE=Mrjay622;2206061]A rusted and incomplete part, that is not good, a slap on the wrist for Christopher's!

[QUOTE=Mrjay622;2206061]Distribution pipe?

[QUOTE=Mrjay622;2206061]Are you going to go the whole hog and remove the intake manifold? If so here is a link to a walk thru, it includes a list of parts.
https://www.docdroid.net/yUGg4Gg/jag...s-manifold.pdf

 

This pipe.

I gone this far why not go a little further just to be sure. I already had the fuel rail apart when I replaced the injectors and cleaned out the fuel lines.
So far everything has gone pretty smoothly.
if it was warmer,drier out I would paint some of these parts..

 

Ah, that pipe, yes, it's definitely showing its age.

Agreed, no point in putting it all back together and then tearing it apart again.

Fingers crossed that the trend continues.

 

Hi guys
Still waiting on the tensioner. And other parts
Question , Is the intake manifold gasket kit just those 8 seals and one gasket?

Thanks...

 

Yes, in fact right now I can't think what that 9th gasket is.

 

Thank you.

 

Here's a list of parts I used when I removed my intake manifold............

Parts:

1) Heater Hose Feed NCA3945CD $18.29 OEM SNG Barrett

2) Heater Hose Return NNE3946CA $18.29 OEM SNG Barrett

3) 3 Way Connector NNE3944BA $3,09 OEM SNG Barrett

4) Manifold gaskets AJ83356 $1.36 each (x 8) Aftermarket SNG Barrett

5) Throttle body gasket NNE3021AC $21.48 OEM SNG Barrett

6) Hose to throttle body NNE3246BA (right/passenger side hook-shaped) $5.04 URO Rock Auto

7) Hose to throttle body NNE3976CA (left/driver side to 3-way connector) $5.66 URO Rock Auto

8) Generic vacuum hoses NAPA $13.50

9) Fuel line disconnect tools Harbor Freight $6.00

10) Metal thermostat housing $56.00 Welshes Jag parts

And, if you do break any of the reservoir hoses www.motorcarltd.com has them at the best prices.

11) Hose from reservoir tank to radiator MNC4583AC $23.00 Motorcarsltd

12) Hose from reservoir tank to thermostat MNC4582AC $25.00 Motorcarsltd

 

I'm real certain that's the EGR gasket.

 

I think you're right HH, but I think the EGR valve is only fitted to the SC cars, MrJ shouldn't need one.

 

Hey guys..
Didn't quite yeah .. Just resting my neck...
No tensioner yet.
The wrong distributor pipe was shipped.
Ordered the intake seal kit...
I'll get back on this by tomorrow.

thanks guys