I came to the conclusion that my fuel pump was bad and went ahead and replaced it following this thread by XJ ate: https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/s...ad.php?t=10157

Put it all together and tried to start it, now fuel is pouring out under the car above the differential (only when I crank). I tried to get away with moving the tank without disconnecting the lines underneath. I probably ended up damaging the lines in the process.

I'm wondering if anyone has a drawing of how the lines are attached and what kind of connectors are there. I can't get a good look at how many lines are there and where they're supposed to go. I tried to look through my JTIS, but I haven't really figured out how to use it effectively, and I can't find any schematic I can follow.

Any advice on how to go about replacing the lines underneath the tank above the differential? I have a feeling the it's broken at some fuel line connection, as the hoses/lines seem to be intact.

PLEASE HELP!!

 

Nave, I have never ventured in this area, other than changing a fuel filter, however I did have a look at the JTIS manual. In the Fuel Tank Removal section, you can find a description of the lines under the car in:
Powertrain / Fuel System / Fuel Tank & Lines. 310-01. There is a diagram showing the Fuel Feed & Fuel Return pipes and the special tool for disconnecting them. I think it is a regular fuel line tool you can get at most auto parts stores, but don't quote me on that.

Hope that is of some help... perhaps a Jag Tech will chime in and give you better advice, but I found it in the JTIS where noted above. You may have disturbed one of those lines somehow and broken the seal. You might have to crawl under to see exactly where it is leaking from with someone cranking. Keep any trouble lights or ignition source well clear of course.

Good luck

 

I have never heard of someone pulling a tank (even part way) without disconnecting the fuel lines from the bottom of the tank. You might need new fuel line(s) and a new tank???? You might get SUPER lucky and just need to reinsert the lines. The lines come loose with a cheap plastic line disconnect tool from auto parts stores (Ford and GM use the same tool) It is a pain to get your hands up above the diff but tearing the lines from the tank is even more work in the long run.

bob gauff

 

I tried searching again in the JTIS... I think maybe I have a bad copy, because I can't find it. I have section 310-00 and then it jumps to 310-02. Do you happen to know how many lines need to be disconnected with the removal tool? I think I see two lines above the differential, but I can only see one disconnect port. I'm not sure if I'm missing something.

 

There are only two in the diagram... Fuel Feed & Fuel Return. Let's hope you just need to re-attach them.
The entire tank removal procedure is quite well documented in JTIS, so if you can not solve the leak and need to remove the tank to repair the trouble, perhaps try downloading JTIS from Christos at the top of this forum page, or get an auto parts store to print it out from ALDATA.

 

There are 2 lines on the underside of the tank. But you need to get the car well raised to get at them.

Lying under the car whilst you get a petrol shower, with someone cranking the car is not an option, you might find the broken line a heck of a lot quicker than your nearest and dearest would have liked.

 

Do both lines remove with the fuel disconnect tool? And are they connected at the tank side or is there some kind of permanent lead/nipple from the tank before it connects?

I'm guessing I'll probably have to pull the tank out to fix it up. I found a piece of some kind of clip which is probably the problem. Looks like I'm going to need that JTIS from Christo.

 

oops..... see below

 

Both lines use the disconnect tool. Translator is right, in that you do not want a gasoline shower. I am feeling a bit stupid right about now. When I suggested that you verify that the leak was coming from those lines, l assumed you would do so from a safe distance.... not needing to wear a shower cap. Having said that, it is probably a pretty safe bet that if you were pulling up on the tank with those lines still connected, that the problem is coming from that point. When you get the car raised, you may be able to see the damaged connections without the need for a shower. My assumption was that if you did test the leak visually that you would spill less fuel than a fuel filter change would create. At any rate, you are working on a gas tank, so obviously you must proceed very cautiously. Make sure any ignition sources are well away and that the area is well ventilated. If you can see the problem, no need to spill gasoline needlessly. I assume you will have some dripping upon removal. Have you pumped the tank out?

If you are planning to continue on the DIY method, I strongly urge you to get the manual. If you can not get it send me a PM... I will try to extract the various sections, but I have my JTIS on a bare bones PC laptop, not networked. I use a mac for just about everything else. I assume the download will work for you. Most auto parts stores will print off ALLDATA manual pages for you as another info source.

You could try a PM to the fellow that did the step by step too. He may be willing to give some first hand help.

Once again, good luck.

 

Hello Fellow Jag Lovers,

I'm attempting to replace my fuel pump as well. However I do not have a JTIS manual and would like to know where I can purchase one. Hope someone can advise me.

 

Check in the "Stickies" above. There are issues with Windows 7 running it though.

 

eBay for a CD or download it from this forum - will not run on Win7 64 bit unless it's Win 7 Pro version using XP emulation.

 

Continually available on eBay for less than $10. Don't pay more, they are all bootleg.

Download is available for free here (https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/s...ead.php?t=9933) but many have had problems, not because of the source document but knowledge. Does not play well with Windows 7, 64 bit.

 

I just removed and replaced my fuel filter on my 1998 XJ8. The old filter was very dirty. looked like rust. Now I tried to start up auto,but I seem to have no fuel going to engine. Is there a way to prime the injectors?

 

If the fuel pump works you will have fuel to the injectors, no prime needed. When you say you seem to have no fuel, have you tried testing the pressure at the schrader valve, or are you guessing.
I hate sounding like a broken record, but if you have been cranking a cold engine and have fuel pressure, you may be suffering from bore wash. This is when raw fuel removes the oil from the rings, resulting in insufficient compression. Do a search on the the subject. The fix is to remove the plugs from one bank, put a quarter teaspoon oil in each plug hole, reassemble and start with the pedal all the way to the floor, which shuts fuel off.

But first, make sure you have fuel pressure.

 

What made you decide that the pump was bad, no start ?
I only ask because mine has started humming quite loudly on occasion (particularly when tank drops below 1/4 full), but car runs ok up till now. Would this be a sign of imminent failure ? I'd rather replace the pump before it fails completely 100 miles from home in the dark and pi****g with rain .....
Thanks
AndyP

 

If you changed the filter, it will require a bit more cranking than normal because there is air in the line and the pressure has been released. It should all clear up in a few seconds of cranking.

 

Andy what year and model?

You can check if the pump is labouring by feeling if the fuel pump relay is hot. Has the car had a new fuel filter? They're a sod to get and and swap if not been done before (rusted bolt & bracket etc), but can save a pump trying to get fuel through a bunged up filter.

The fuel pump job is another level of awkwardness

 

Thanks Sean.
Yes I had a new fuel filter installed a few weeks ago (my indie commented in the siezed bracket bolts !). The humming is intermittent, but more evident on a low tank (I now keep the car 1/4 full minimum), but the extra fuel may just be deadening the noise.
I suppose its possible the garage installed the filter the wrong way round - would this make a significant difference as the noise appeared some time after the filter installation.
I will check the relay after a run anyway.

Thanks
AndyP

 

Maybe. Most filters have an arrow or in/out marked on them.