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The term IAT feedback and ground may not be the correct term to use in the wiring guide breakout sheet in how the thermistor works
negative temperature coefficient (NTC) thermistor , the common resistor R would be inside the ECU , point A would be your reading after reference voltage applied by the ECU
So your ground on pin 5 would not be zero but the internal resistor and this would throw you off in troubleshooting
Pin 1 will be 12 volt power to the MAF
Pin 2 will be a true zero ground for the MAF
Pin 3 will be the return signal from the MAF to ECU of 1.2 volts DC at the proper idle speed
Pin 4 will be the reference voltage of 5.0 volts DC from the ECU to the IAT
Pin 5 will be the internal ground through the ECU with the " blocking " resistor inside in order to get a IAT reading other then zero volts out of the thermistor , Vout
The term IAT feedback and ground may not be the correct term to use in the wiring guide breakout sheet in how the thermistor works
negative temperature coefficient (NTC) thermistor , the common resistor R would be inside the ECU , point A would be your reading after reference voltage applied by the ECU
So your ground on pin 5 would not be zero but the internal resistor and this would throw you off in troubleshooting
Pin 1 will be 12 volt power to the MAF
Pin 2 will be a true zero ground for the MAF
Pin 3 will be the return signal from the MAF to ECU of 1.2 volts DC at the proper idle speed
Pin 4 will be the reference voltage of 5.0 volts DC from the ECU to the IAT
Pin 5 will be the internal ground through the ECU with the " blocking " resistor inside in order to get a IAT reading other then zero volts out of the thermistor , Vout
This will be the key to tracing the wires first, and I would wager that once the correct wires are where they need to be, things will clear up. My weekend has been totally immersed in finding my tools and not blowing my cool. So, two complete days of sorting, tossing and arranging my shop and tools. Now, I can tackle that beast!
It’s a complete gamble if the new aftermarket part is any good. I’d personally look for a used oem one and clean it out good. I’ve tossed many slightly used aftermarket MAF in the trash after the car comes in for running issues. I don’t just shotgun a guess at the MAF, I verify they’re no good by using a known good used oem MAF from one of our parts cars first then I look at the STFT & LTFT. I’m just saying that don’t dismiss the MAF because it looks new.