Going through a quart every tank. No drips or puddles. Every now and again (once a week or two) a bit of blue smoke on start-up but not regularly by any mean.

I see a bit of oil on the valve covers but nowhere else. Also not sure if relevant but occasionally the car runs a little rough at idle. However at driving rpm normal power and smooth.

Wondering if all the symptoms (oil consumption, rough idle, occasional smoke on start) are likely related or? The engine was replaced by previous owner by a good Jag mechanic and not all that many miles on it - maybe 50K

Could it be something relatively simply like valve cover gaskets? Or am I looking into a deep dark hole? Suggestions for fixes or least expensive way to diagnose would be welcome.

Steve
San Diego, Ca

 

Is the sump filled to the max hole on the dipstick?
Some people have reported that maintaining the oil level closer to the lower limit has reduced the oil consumption rate.

 

I have experienced the too full situation. If I fill to top mark it is down a quart in less than a thousand miles. It then just stays there. There has been some discussion about Jaguar increasing the capacity principally by changing the dip stick marks.

Have you pulled a plug to see if it is oily? Try leaving it a qt low and see what happens. Changing the valve cover gaskets is very easy and they are less than $40 if you buy the FelPro ones for the Lincoln LS 3.9L '02.

 

It's not a "too full" problem. It will drop down off the dipstick if not refilled.

I've noted in searching the forum some folks recommend some sort of Engine Restore additive or using heavier oil - currently always have used 5-30 and change the oil every 4K. Thoughts or suggestion on the Restore or heavier oil suggestions?

If someone would be so kind as to walk me through, step by step, the things I should check or do it would be a big help. I'm not a gear head by any means but I can follow directions, and in San Diego Jag service is ridiculously pricey - so learning of anything I can do on my own (with the guidance of you vets!) would really be a help.

Thanks in advance.

 

DEFINE REPLACED, WITH WHAT, FACTORY REMANED? JUNK YARD?(POSSIBLE NIKASIL ISSUE) OR REBUILD BY MECHANIC?
YES I ALMOST ALWAYS AM THE 1 TO RECOMMEND HEAVIER OIL AND OR ENGINE RESTORE. i HAVE HAD MANY ISSUES WITH JAGUARS AND OTHER THAT NEEDED A HEAVIER OIL FOR VVT(VARIABLE VALVE TIMING FAULTS). OIL CONSUMPTION ETC. THERE ARE TIMES IN A RINGS LIFE THAT IT CANNOT EFFECTIVLY CONTROL THINNER OIL AND THIS DOESNT MEEN ANYTHING IS REALLY WRONG EITHER. SWITCH TO ADDING 20-50W NEXT TIME AND SEE IF IT IMPROVES USEAGE. IF IT DOES JUST CHANGE TO 20-50W NEXT OIL CHANGE. ENGINE RESTORE WORKS WONDERS TOO BUT YOU NEED ABOUT A BOTTLE AND A HALF OF V8 ENGINE RESTORE FOR JAGUARS OIL CAPACITY.
I ALWAYS BELIEVE IN TRYING CHEAP EFFECTIVE FIXES FIRST. UNLESS YOUR ONE OF THE PEOPLE THAT JUST HAS ALOT OF DICRESSIONARY INCOME(I KNOW YOU DONT SINCE YOURE LOOKING FOR HEADLIGHT TRIM)

 

Interesting, Castrol oils are recommended by Jaguar.

What viscosity did you use?

 

did i miss something? Who was talking about glazed cylinders?
Thats only an issue with new rings not seating and incorrect crosshatch/stones used for the ring set used. Talking to him privately the engine was not rebuild but repaired by the previous owner at a shop that gouged that guy. The repair was for a snapped chain and bent valves . I already explained to him that that could be a non issue. Or could have hit the piston top hard enough to push metal over tightly to the cylinder walls and or tightened a ring land which leaves to ring clearance for it to move and will destroy itself. But thats all conjecture and if's. Only thinking out loud. Ive had valves hit pistons hard enough with a chain break on the v8's to break the piston and crack a cylinder wall

 

the plot thickens

 

Got a 99 XJ8 with over 168k...using Castrol high mileage 10W-40...added only one can of engine restore at the last change...no change in oil use pattern. Next go round will be changing over to a heavier synthetic and add a can and a half as suggested by "Brutal"....Did I mention that I would be doing my own change next time as the local tire, tune & lube got me for about $86?

 

damn at least we wash and vacuum for that price on a oil change and look the car over for anything else like leaks, brakes tire alignment etc and we know where to check for issues

 

I have been experiencing the same problem. I add a quart every two weeks, no drip or puddles of oil on my garage floor. Using 20-50 for the vvt noise, which helps the noise. I will try Restore and see if it helps. Any other suggestions?

Thanks



98 VDP 188k

 

@Brutal, what stones/crosshatch can you recommend for liner prep? I'm rebuilding a 4.0 S/C and I've bought new ring sets. The engine has 140k on it, and to be honest, I can clearly make out the original crosshatch on the liner walls, they look quite good condition. It's a steel liner engine. I'd like to get it as "new" as possible before build-up.



As a side note, Jaguar changed the recommended engine oil to Shell Helix HX7 5W-30 some time last year, it has synthetic properties. Maybe look at a heavier oil in that range.

 

I haven't seen running a compression check mentioned in this thread (sorry if I missed it). With blue smoke at startup, rough idle, and heavy oil use I'd check compression to rule out valve or ring related leakage.

 

I'm with Jaginblack. If it's not leaking, its burning it through the rings or the valve seals. If the compression is real bad, you probably have a trashed cylinder and the snake oil probably will not help much.

 

Try using a synthetic 20w-50, eg RedLine. It should free up any sticking piston rings.

 

So, can anyone claim ACTUAlL improvement in oil consumption from somehting bad, like 1 qt per 1000 miles to something reasonable, like 1 qt / 2500 miles, after either changing oil or running an additive. Really?
I BELIEVE I saw an improvement in my '98 XJR (with 200,000 miles, then) after I went to symthetic 10 w 40 Mobil1. But it was modest, like a qt/ 3000 miles to a qt. / 5000 miles. The engine has 240,000 miles now, and runs good.