Car ran for 30 seconds then slowly lost rpm and shut off like out of fuel. Put some gas down throttle body and fires for a few seconds then shuts off.

Things I have done/checked:
Fuel pressure at the rail - 40psi
Pulled injectors rail and cranked and injectors are all firing and spraying fuel
Checked for fuel bleed off and had none, pressure held
Check spark and have spark
Checked Voltage to cam sensors- 5v
Fully charge battery
Replaced crank sensor.

 

Did it throw any readable codes that you can scan and point the right direction? Will it run at all if you pump or feather the throttle pedal? Long shot, but I had a broken connection to my MAF once and it died on me, and then would crank and not start. If I feathered it, I could just barely keep it running, but barely. It actually took a little while before it would throw a code, which finally put me on the path. However, in my case it was a short so when I unplugged the connector altogether, it would start and run fine, though under Restricted Performance. So it's a long shot, but just happened to be what happened to me.

 

As far as codes, if there were any, they are gone. I bought the car a month a go from a dealer and had them replace battery before I picked it up. 3 weeks go by and then I have the problem I am having now. I started checking basics including proper connection at the battery. Found that they did not install the bolts back in my cables, so they were just spinning around. Pulled the cables to charge battery and install new bolts but of course that wipes the memory. I will check wiring at mass air just for the heck of it. Thanks for the input.

 

You can disconnect the MAF and it will send a code, causing the ECU to go into a default mode and allow the car to run if the MAF is the issue. Your mileage and performance will suffer, but it will be drivable.

 

You only have the # 1 fuel pump on the non supercharged engine . You can swap the relay with relay X
The relay clicks 3 times in the starting sequence on - off - on . You may have been pressure sensing the first 2 click commands to prime the fuel rail only . the 3rd click back on comes from the CKPS through the ECU . Better to put your finger on it . Listen also for the pump to run during the clicks while the trunk is open .

If all your reading are valid as a testing configuration look at the transmission body connector ( push / pull connector ) as it has a history of being contaminated stalling the engine .

Both of your MAF sensors will read 0.50 volts DC at the correct idle speed on the center wires .

 

Since you know that you have fuel pressure and have determined that you have spark. I would pull and clean the crankshaft position sensor face and check the wires for damage. It is mounted on the right hand lower side of the flywheel housing. The CKPS is the one to tell the ECU that you are cranking and want to start.

 

Here's some more info on the MAF to go along with LP's...

 

Finally got time to get the car to the shop. Ended up being water in the fuel. The drain was clogged in the fuel fill area and with all the rain we have had, it filled up and went into the tank. Thanks for all the advice anyway. Hopefully I now get to enjoy the car for more then a 100 miles this time.