XJ XJ8 / XJR ( X308 ) 1997 - 2003

is this 2003 XJR worth buying?

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Old Jan 1, 2014 | 09:53 PM
  #41  
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Originally Posted by XJR Prototype
Supercharger looks abnormally clean or maybe it's because it only has 100k?

Look's like she's in good hands now! I'll be updating my thread soon too.
Ill check out your thread.

What's a good brand or website to browse for aftermarket jaguar parts? I'm looking for a lower pulley at the moment & replacement shocks for the front. I'm not quite sure if the shocks are different cats vs non cats.
 
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Old Jan 1, 2014 | 10:18 PM
  #42  
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You have cat's so you'll just have to search.

Pulley's from what i've seen are from paramount performance in the UK or euro toys here in the USA.
 
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Old Jan 3, 2014 | 06:09 PM
  #43  
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Is there a way to find out if a replacement engine is a 2003 and nothing below? Also I been searching around for a rebuild kit if i plan to go that route, but no luck.
 
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Old Jan 3, 2014 | 08:03 PM
  #44  
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Originally Posted by Ericbilt25
Is there a way to find out if a replacement engine is a 2003 and nothing below? Also I been searching around for a rebuild kit if i plan to go that route, but no luck.

Seller should be able to give you the year, make, model and approximate miles off the car if they are a reputable recycle/salvage shop.

I'm thinking you might be able to also go by the VIN number off the block but I'm sure others will chime in.
 
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Old Feb 13, 2014 | 01:50 AM
  #45  
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It's been quite a while since I updated this thread. I finally got around to taking the engine apart and cleaning parts before sending it out to a machine shop to have it inspected, but I will be rebuilding this engine myself if everything turns out okay. It looks ugly at the moment:





 
Attached Thumbnails is this 2003 XJR worth buying?-28wm4wh.jpg   is this 2003 XJR worth buying?-1rxo5u.jpg   is this 2003 XJR worth buying?-aqeyd.jpg  
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Old Feb 13, 2014 | 06:36 PM
  #46  
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Didn't realize the stock connecting rods were that beefy!

Chris
 
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Old Feb 13, 2014 | 06:38 PM
  #47  
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Yea looks like they could hold quite a bit of extra power... me likey.
 
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Old Feb 13, 2014 | 07:15 PM
  #48  
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I bent one.

Hydro lock from cracked fuel injector.

But that was my old xjr, my new one I like better
 
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Old Feb 14, 2014 | 10:13 PM
  #49  
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yeah they're pretty beefy when I was comparing them to my stock mustang rods. The heads are trashed though they can't be machined.. way out of spec due to the engine overheating so bad so I'm on the hunt for a new pair. Anyone know where I can get a service manual for this specific engine? I need torque specs and ring end gap specs.. pretty much the entire engine torque specs. I looked online and Haynes doesn't have any jaguar repair manuals.


I had some spare time today to clean up the block a little.. I will most likely finish it tomorrow and hone it by Sunday.
 
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Old Feb 14, 2014 | 10:54 PM
  #50  
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Check out the AJ training manual- it's around here somewhere. Has most of the specs I think (not sure about the ring clearances tho)
 
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Old Feb 15, 2014 | 05:22 AM
  #51  
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Don't hone the liners, a simple flap wheel will give you the cross hatch you require. Honing takes too much material. These units run tight tolerances. I use a disc sander with cuts in it from edge to centre so it goes into the bores nice and easy. A couple of up/down strokes, job done.

Any AJ27 heads/cams will do, but you'll need to swap the cam sprockets over from yours (SC flywheels and morse chain drives) removing VVT if NA.

When torquing up the bedplate I'd suggest a torque wrench with angle. Tick/mark each bolt as you work through them, as you know there's plenty of them.

With the rings make note of the right side up on the compressions. If you bust them, buy new.

Racing Green (uk) do full sets cheaper than Jaguar, along with some nice bits like upper/lower pulley upgrades

RACING GREEN CARS | Jaguar Parts

Use the later 4.2 head gaskets. Locate a Gen5 Eaton (off the 4.2) it's a nicer/later unit.

The AJ-V8 course book was uploaded by Bob Gauff or 'motorcarman' search his posts or the term and you'll find it. There's a torque spec list within. Generally light to medium torque settings right through the unit. Get plenty of Ultra Grey Loctite sealer, you'll need to run beads and help gaskets along with this stuff.

Hope this helps - done a few, spare bedroom a while ago - Blue Printed unit...



 
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Old Feb 15, 2014 | 06:43 AM
  #52  
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Originally Posted by Ericbilt25
It's been quite a while since I updated this thread. I finally got around to taking the engine apart and cleaning parts before sending it out to a machine shop to have it inspected, but I will be rebuilding this engine myself if everything turns out okay. It looks ugly at the moment:
Holy cow batfink....what a frickin' mess!
I would expect this sort of mess from a 50 year old clunker, not a '03 Jaguar.
Some people just don't deserve to have these cars.
As Sean B. suggests, I would just use a 'flop mop' to clean the bores.
If worried at all about bore concentricity, you could have them miked to check for any ovality after such an extreme over heat issue.
You will remember to mark and number all the piston assemblies as the con rods are 'fracture' split' and you need to pair them very carefully.
These are a pretty straight forward engine to rebuild just remembering to keep all the torque specs just right.
 
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Old Feb 15, 2014 | 11:38 AM
  #53  
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Originally Posted by Sean B
Don't hone the liners, a simple flap wheel will give you the cross hatch you require. Honing takes too much material. These units run tight tolerances. I use a disc sander with cuts in it from edge to centre so it goes into the bores nice and easy. A couple of up/down strokes, job done.

Any AJ27 heads/cams will do, but you'll need to swap the cam sprockets over from yours (SC flywheels and morse chain drives) removing VVT if NA.

When torquing up the bedplate I'd suggest a torque wrench with angle. Tick/mark each bolt as you work through them, as you know there's plenty of them.

With the rings make note of the right side up on the compressions. If you bust them, buy new.

Racing Green (uk) do full sets cheaper than Jaguar, along with some nice bits like upper/lower pulley upgrades

RACING GREEN CARS | Jaguar Parts

Use the later 4.2 head gaskets. Locate a Gen5 Eaton (off the 4.2) it's a nicer/later unit.

The AJ-V8 course book was uploaded by Bob Gauff or 'motorcarman' search his posts or the term and you'll find it. There's a torque spec list within. Generally light to medium torque settings right through the unit. Get plenty of Ultra Grey Loctite sealer, you'll need to run beads and help gaskets along with this stuff.

Hope this helps - done a few, spare bedroom a while ago - Blue Printed unit...



awesome thank you
 
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Old Feb 15, 2014 | 11:42 AM
  #54  
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Originally Posted by xjay8
Holy cow batfink....what a frickin' mess!
I would expect this sort of mess from a 50 year old clunker, not a '03 Jaguar.
Some people just don't deserve to have these cars.
As Sean B. suggests, I would just use a 'flop mop' to clean the bores.
If worried at all about bore concentricity, you could have them miked to check for any ovality after such an extreme over heat issue.
You will remember to mark and number all the piston assemblies as the con rods are 'fracture' split' and you need to pair them very carefully.
These are a pretty straight forward engine to rebuild just remembering to keep all the torque specs just right.
I know I almost threw up when I tore it apart and saw the parts.. looks messy, but it will be very clean and organized during assembly in a closed environment. They have been marked and I'm going to send out the crank rods and pistons to a machine shop to have them re balanced if it's necessary and polish the crank.
 

Last edited by Ericbilt25; Feb 15, 2014 at 11:44 AM.
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Old Feb 15, 2014 | 08:26 PM
  #55  
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Which one is our engine code?
AJ26/27/28
AJ33/34
AJ60
AJ61/62
 
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Old Feb 16, 2014 | 04:08 AM
  #56  
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Originally Posted by Ericbilt25
Which one is our engine code?
AJ26/27/28
AJ33/34
AJ60
AJ61/62
Being a 2003, you will have an AJ27 engine and probably pretty close to the end of 308 production which is actually in 2002 as your country market always jumps a year ;o)
 
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Old Feb 16, 2014 | 12:26 PM
  #57  
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The Rims and brakes alone are worth 2500-3500.

$1000-1200 for brakes and 2000-2500 for wheels. Hard to come by those wheels.


I'd look for a used 4.2 engine and swap it out. Will probably be much much cheaper in the long run rather than chasing all those little issues down.
 
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Old Feb 16, 2014 | 11:23 PM
  #58  
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Originally Posted by princemarko
The Rims and brakes alone are worth 2500-3500.

$1000-1200 for brakes and 2000-2500 for wheels. Hard to come by those wheels.


I'd look for a used 4.2 engine and swap it out. Will probably be much much cheaper in the long run rather than chasing all those little issues down.
I would love to swap over to a 4.2L, but I already started on the original 4.0L and I think Im going to hand this car over to my father for a while to get a kick out of it. He will break in the new engine healthier then I would if you know what I mean
 
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Old Feb 16, 2014 | 11:39 PM
  #59  
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Are the head casting the same from 1998-2003? I found a pair and the guy said its either off a 1998 or 2001..
 
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Old Feb 17, 2014 | 08:46 AM
  #60  
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other end of the cams are different, 1 reluctor instead of 4 which the AJ27's have, you can change these over, but I'd just go with complete 27 heads. That's the question to ask the seller...
 

Last edited by Sean B; Feb 17, 2014 at 08:50 AM.
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