No I haven't but the pumps are brand new. I noticed that after installing them I have a message that says improper part fitment what in the samhill does that mean???

 

Uuuuuggh what a Cat tastrophie!!!! I'm only laughing to keep from crying, I've gotten a real lesson when it comes to my Jag. I'm exceptionally graetful for the forum and for all of the help but here goes.

I initially thought that my pumps had failed only to find out after replacing them that they weren't the problem at all. After deciding to pull the valve covers I found that I had a broken secondary on the right side and I had been trying to start the car yeeesh...ok so I decided that I would replace both secondaries FIRST to se if I had indeed crashed the pistons or bent the valves.

I just finished and hit the key with my fingers crossed and she started but here's the kicker there is a rapping noise on the right side and she surges instead of idling smoothly and to top all of that off I have an incorrect part fitment code from the fuel pumps (they are supposed to be high performance pumps) but at this point I'm more concerned about the noise. Can somebody help!!!

 

You don't say "how" you changed the secondaries.

If you took a shortcut, it may be that one of your cams is timed improperly. That would be a best case scenario. You would need to go through some of the guides on how to change the secondaries and see if you missed something.

Then, describe your exact procedure, without leaving out details, so that others can perhaps figure it out.

Do not be tempted to start your car again until you have it figured out.

 

Really took my time changing the secondaries, took no shortcuts and even bought the necessary tools. I followed the instructions as per a very detailed thread found on the forum (jaguar@blackoynx.net). I will say that I wasn't particularly happy with the way the right side had no tension on the chain up top it seemed as though the secondary tensioner needed to be pumped up hydraulically and so I believed it would do so after start up. I was under the impression that it was important to set the tension to the drive side of the secondary. I will pull the right side down again and see what it looks like.

 

Dmello, did you turn over the engine without fuel, (disconnect fuel pumps and spin for a while) because the upper tensioners need oil to take out the slack. Firing the engine straight up can force the timing chain to skip before oil pressure is reached. You're going to have to re-time the r.h. bank I suspect.

 

Thanks Sean B and no I did not but I will bring the tiiming marks back to top dead center and start all over to be sure.

 

OK I've locked the crank and pulled the valve covers it seems to me that the left side is off a tooth or so but I noticed that the right side tensioner isn't pumped up at all is there a way to pre-prime the secondary tensioners??? The right side also feels slack on the bottom any suggestions??? Also what of the improper fitment message can I have the computer reprogrammed to accept the higher output fuel pumps

 

Once I've locked the cams how can I be sure that the gears are on the money??? I saw a post about counting the teeth but how accurate can that be? HEEEEEELLLLLLLLLPPPPPPPPPPPPP!!!

 

I know it's not exactly what you want to hear, but the car will not reprogram to other parts.
You've done what I'd do and put better pumps in, BUT....
I'd look at voltages of the oem pumps and new ones, I'll bet the new pump draws more, hence the incorrect part fitted warning. Can the new pumps voltage draw be altered, that would be one for Sparkandzap our resident electrical wizzard, maybe p.m. him with the specs of the new pumps and see what can be done.

On the timing front, you're very lucky not to have more than one tooth, I understand more than one it's valves........
The tensioners you fitted are the metal bodied ones right? you removed the stop pins, did you notice if they popped up once the pins were pulled out? They have a spring assist. I wonder if there's a blockage, maybe pull both tensioners and look to see if oil is actually making it to the rh one, and compare what you find to the lh one?
Have you had the timing cover off? there could be a chance of failure of the lower tensioner or guide if not tight, just a thought!

 

Thanks again for your quick response> I havent had the front covers off but after examining what was on the car it appears that someone had already replaced the left side it is the metal bodied tensioner and the right side failed because it was the original, who would do such a thing??? I've replaced both and just need to know if there is any chance that what I'm hearing is a bent valve contacting a piston or if it is just because I'm slightly off on the timing and the tensioner is not pumping up causing the chain to slap.

 

You say the right side secondary chain seems slack.

Did you double check that you released the retainer? It's like a grenade pin. It is meant to keep the tensioner retracted during install.

If you have the crank and cam lockdown tools installed, your timing should be right on the money. The cam flats should all be aligned on both cylinder banks.

If all the flats are not aligned when the crankshaft is aligned, something is out of whack. You will have to look into that.

Apparently, the slack each of the secondary chains is on the opposite side because the tension side is on opposite sides. Just turn your head 90 degrees to realise why this is the case. The slack on a bicycle chain is always on the bottom run because the top run is the driving run. The crank sprocket pulls the chain which then pulls the wheel sprocket on the bicycle.

In that case the the tighter run on the passenger bank(US) is on the top and on the botom on the other side.

And you know left and right secondary tensionsers are different and install slightly differently, right?

 

I did pull both pins and yet the left side is extended while the right or passenger side is flat, could it be defective? Also I did realize that they are somewhat different but you say they install differently, could you elaborate

 

Hey guys is there a definitive way to tell if you've bent a valve without a complete tear down??? Also my right side tensioner did not pop up after I pulled the pin is it defective??? I'm almost there I just need a bit of guidance from some of the forums Gurus...

 

You can do a compression test to find out if you have a bent valve.

A semi-test would be to move each cylinder in turn to the compression stroke, blow air into that cylinder with a spark plug air line adapter. You should not hear air coming out of the cylinder at either the throttle body or exhaust pipe. In other words, it should hold air. If not, then you have to do a full test on that cylinder.

But before doing so, take a look at that tensioner. The whole point of that release pin is to hold back the tensioner while installing. If it did not budge after pulling out the pin, then you have a clue. Try seeing if the plunger goes in and out when you press on the plunger. Yes, it is possible to get a dead on arrival part.

edit: take a look at your secondary chain guides. Maybe the one on the right is completely borked, thus allowing the slack you see.

 

Just wondering I have the Harmon rear speaker and if that is taken out from the top side can the fuel pump be accessed that way after speaker is out? anyone try this approach yet? any help appreciated

 

Great advice thank you! I was stuck for weeks unable to start the car (xkr 2000 silverstone) and about to remove the tank when I read your post. Removing relay #1 did the trick and I was able to start the car and drive it for the first time in a very very long time! So thanks for the tip! Definitely something to try first when there is a doubt regarding the pumps.

I would just like to add 2 things in case it might interest others on the forum:


1 - a diagram of the relays in the trunk fuse box






2 - I was doing a few tests like swapping the relays of pump #1 and pump #2 and interestingly, after I was able to start the car by removing the relay of pump #1, I could still restart the car and drive it fine with relay #1 back in place. I was even able to start the car and drive it WITHOUT any of the pump relays in place.... Not sure why, maybe it takes some time before the error is taken into account.

Anyway I thought I would say thanks and add comments based on my recent experience.

 

This is not really possible, unless you have a short somewhere (in one of the pump relay sockets?) which sends power to one of the pumps even when the relay is taken out. But this would then drain your battery in a very short time.