Hopefully I won't be throwing away my freshly cleaned intake elbow over this.
I disconnected the power brake booster vacuum hose from the right side of the intake elbow to avoid breaking the rigid line while working in that area.
I reinstalled the line then found I was going to have to remove the supercharger for the heating hoses underneath it.
The second time removing the PB booster hose it came out much easier.
While cleaning the intake elbow to get ready for reassembly the black plastic collar I depressed to release the PB hose fell out in my hand.
There's no way this will seal up now!
Does anyone know the part number for that black plastic collar?

 

Well, it looks like I might have answered my own question...and created another.
I found a part on SNG Barrat that includes the brass bushing (housing) for the quick connect parts that looks to press into the aluminum intake elbow.
It includes the plastic ring the hose seals against(?) as well as the collar that has to be depressed to release the hose.
Any thoughts on how hard that brass bushing will come out of the intake elbow so I can press the new one in?
Looking into the intake elbow it looks as if the brass part presses in against the bottom of a counterbore but I may have missed something...

 

Just leave the brass part in and replace the plastic bits from the new part?

 

I thought about that but am not sure the snap features on the plastic collar will be happy about being used in the opposite direction.
Somehow they have to hold the colla into the brass bushing.
I did find one version that shows the plastic collar uninstalled so I might see if I can source that one.
These look to be readily available, although SNG has it listed as "special order" so people must use them, just not sure how...

 

motorcarman it looks as if you are correct.
I found a couple of threads on other model jag BB's and that's how everyone seems to have fixed this.
One poster suggested you could press the brass piece out from the back side.
I do see that the vacuum prot for the part load breather is opposite the PB booster line but the brass piece looks to be a smaller diameter than the thru hole to the inside of the elbow.
I suppose you could try a bearing puller (slide hammer) but I'd be reluctant to do that as you stand a chance of making a mess of the brass piece.
Of course if you have a mill you could machine it out but that seemslike a last resort.
Apparently this same connection is employed on the intake manifold of the 3.0 V6 and causes trouble when the o-ring at the bottom of the fitting dries out and hardens.
I wasn't sure if this was an o-ring as on mine it's pretty hard but I worked up the courage to grab it with some pliers and remove it.
It came out in pieces so now I just have to make sure I get a kit where the collar is seperate so I don't lose one of its lives removing it for my use.
BTW, the part number I found is C2S15816 and a google search on that shows lots of options...
Thanks!

 

Before I got tired of messing around with that piece I just replaced the plastic innards; it will work fine without replacing the brass piece. When I got tired of messing with it, I drilled out the hole with the brass piece in place, tapped it to a -6AN and screwed in a fitting with a 5/16s hose nipple. A small piece of vacuum hose fts over the 8mm plastic brake line and on to the nipple with a couple of small T-clamps.

 

Like hispeed42 I also finally fixed that retarded swivel vacuum connection with a thread in brass fitting. It's strange why JLR even used it as there is a normal steel vacuum nipple right next to this brass/plastic bit?





If you do want the stock replacement it is sold with all the pieces.





Here is my detailed thread from years ago for background.




PB Vacuum Fitting Leaking
There are a number of additional threads I linked if your interested in further information.
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Maybe the engineers wanted the inside diameter of the plastic pipe to the brake booster to remain THAT DIAMETER and putting a brass fitting with a hose would reduce the diameter.
A 1/8 pipe fitting ID would probably be smaller than the ID of the plastic pipe?
You could drill the hole larger and install a bigger diameter fitting?